Another Rest Day

I gave up my park passes today - I just wanted to be an introvert - hang out in the coffee shop - though it worked out that I ran into a bunch of people from the Rock Ranch =). Just hanging out - working on Laura's wedding - watching my favorite TV show Dexter, (Ok maybe I like Bones better.)

I brought in my Vegas Bouldering guide - getting
pretty psyched to check that place out with Elodie.

I had a good day yesterday - cleaned up on a project - though a low grade was pretty hard for me....but whatever - I like it here.

Quick Hit

Just sitting outside the park - its nice today - getting ready to head in....My back is GREAT today - it hurt a little this morning - but I ran a 5k and now I feel really good (well my legs are sore) - gonna head into the park though stay low (So I don't have to climb the chains) - gonna try a couple of my easier projects today ( well at least grade wise - I swear the on problem - grade equivalent to Cutting Edge at the Mills feels more like the burning zone grade equiv....)

Not a Bad day...

My back hurt in the morning - but I climbed anyway - taking it easy - I did a roof problem - and it cracked three times - each time, it was like someone was cutting a cord of pain - it was great! I actually tried a problem that was my style - and crushed it - it was the grade equivalent of Birthday Boulder at the Mills...I swear - it felt just as hard as the V2 Warm-Up - but that's how Hueco is...the higher the grade, the easier it is for the grade...so yah - I'd hate to be someone climbing at V0-V3 - You're screwed!

Nicole Hanson, a Friksn athlete rolled in last night - she's here for a week or two - not sure - gonna try and get out some with her and take pics - though the park has been ridiculously busy - I'm SUPER glad I have North Mountain passes....

It was cold again this morning - My water was frozen solid - I was warm of course, I have two sleeping bags - a synthetic and a down - I keep the down on the inside (My grandma bought me that down sleeping bag several years ago - Thanks GMA!)

I've been working on an article - not sure if it'll go - but I think it will - its about full time climbers and their "rigs" like - their van's/campers and how they have them set-up - MAN - I really want to drop 40K and get one myself! I could totally run a video production out of one...most of them are 100 percent solar powered...though I think running a Quad Core Mac might tax the solar panels a bit yah? =)

I ran into a group from Colorado - THEY WERE CRUSHING - Here is a pic of Flannery Nemirow on Free Willey - a crimpy steep V9/V10.

Just hanging out in the coffee shop - today is my day out of the park....gonna try and finish up Laura's wedding, My photo submission for the NRG Guidebook, and another article I'm working on ...oh and I still need to make an album for the RRG...and my wedding stuff....

Ahhh....a beautiful day...

-Danno

PS thanks for the update on Flannery's name - I misread her name on the model release

Snow Sucks....especially in the desert

27 December

I hurt my back – it really sucks…..I went into town and worked on photos for about 7 hours today – hung out at this nice coffee shop that kept me in warm Chai the whole time…I’m heading into the park tomorrow – to climb –I don’t know how hard I’ll be able to climb with my back hurting – but I’m out of the park the next day – so I’ll rest then for sure…

28 December

Still hurts –but not so bad – I hate snow – it sucks – it snowed here….the desert is such a dichotomy sometimes…its too cold to be outside – so this one is going to be short…

Back Hurt today...

I had a somewhat disappointing day - totally got my butt kicked - ok maybe not - I managed to do the first move on one of my projects - which I hadn't been able to do before - now if I can stick the 3rd move - I think I can do it - but its underclings in a roof..and you know how I am with those (BAD)...

My back started hurting though - so I quit...it still hurts...I drove into town - watched a couple episodes of "House" - put together some photos for Wolverine for the NRG guidebook...you know - fun stuff...



Here's a shot I had someone shoot of me on one of my projects...and a foosball shot of Jimmy Webb

-Danno

Isn't it Boxing Day or something?

25 December

I can’t believe I’ve only been here for a week – it seems like its been a lifetime – I’m really starting to settle in here….today was/is a good rest day – just pretty much sitting around – working on photos – watching climbing videos – (Dosage IV) – I cleaned my camera and charged everything –

I’m hoping to put in a good go on my project(s) tomorrow – the one feels like I can do it – I’ve done all the moves – I just need to link them – I’m really bad at underclings and roofs – and the problem is underclings – in – a – roof….but whatever right?

It feels so good to be this trashed – I’m really tired too – I think that I’m gonna take another nap….yah good idea!

26 December

Woah – I had some crazy dreams last night – cool ones though – actually woke up to my cell phone alarm this morning – I wanted to get into the park early to get some work done on the intraweb. I picked up Tim last night (Hink or something – I don’t want to spell it wrong) – He and John Michael are climbing today and I’m hoping to get some shots of JM on Free Willey – I wish they’d get here soon while its cloudy – it’s a nice – cool, but not too cold overcast morning.

I’ve been running a 5k every morning except this morning – I crapped out at the 5 minutes out mark – so I only ran 10 minutes – Tomorrow is my rest (shoot pics) day – so I’ll probably try to do another 5k – Once my morning 5ks start getting easier, I’ll start bumping them up.

For Breakfast this morning – I had an orange and oatmeal (with Cinnamon) – good stuff for sure. I sorta ran out of cereal and I’m almost out of soy milk – I need to go shopping…..again……well – I found a coffee shop in town that has free net if you buy something – so I’ll probably spend the afternoon/evening there and food shop as well.

It hurts to life my arms over my head...

24 December

Sorry – no pics today – I just bouldered – didn’t even bring the camera =). I took some photos though – with someone else’s camera…Today was for working projects on my list – one of my projects – a steep roof – I managed to do all the moves on it – I got it pretty well dialed…all I need to do is put it together – I think I can do it maybe next week – we shall see though…and I worked another one of my projects – I’m still not strong enough to do the hard start on it – though I’m getting stronger on it – I did some pull ups from the start hold (You have to pull on and throw) – I can do all the rest of the moves on it though – they’re not easy – and its going to be hard – but I can do them all…

Tomorrow is Christmas Day ! Yah! Hueco yah! I’m missing my family though…I’m taking a rest day – though I signed up for a tour with Jimmy Webb – I may give up my spot if John Michael wants on it – but I was planning on taking photos…ok the shower is open – time for some warm water.

25 December

Ah yah - christmas day - the first I've spent away from family - I'm in the park now - I can't get in - well I probably could wait - but I'm not going to - I'm trashed...just came in the park to post my blog - check emails - etc. gonna spend the day working on photos - hopefully finish up Laura's wedding - and put together a slideshow for the New Years Bash at the Rock Ranch.

It was warm again last night - which was cool.

So daily life at the Rock Ranch - its definitely different from Miguel's no wireless internet - so ppl have to like actually interact. Last night was movie night - we watched "Blood Diamonds" which was quite exquisit. Then we played Foosball - yah that's right - there's this tattered foosball table there - though its a good table from what people say - and we play i t - a lot - I'm pretty bad at it - but I think that I'm getting better - I can at least hold my own sometimes....well ok maybe not.

I may have to just shoot pics tomorrow - take two rest days - I am PRETTY hosed...

Twas the night before Christmas...

24 December

Another warm night – thank God…and a good night’s rest – and I kept having cool dreams too – a sign that I’m starting to settle in here for the long haul. I remember one dream in particular, it was one of those “being chased” dreams – I love those – they’re the best =) So much fun! Though I sorta cheated I think…you know – when you realize that you’re dreaming and change things so they work out for you…oh well….

I ran again this morning – my daily 5k – Hopefully I can lose some weight and CRUSH here…it felt easy today too – maybe tomorrow I’ll bump it up some – it’s a 25 minute loop for me from the campground – the longer loop – the shorter loop is 15 minutes – so maybe I’ll do a 40 minute loop tomorrow if I’m feeling it. I don’t have park passes for tomorrow – though I did put my name down for a volunteer tour – I’m resting though – so I’ll likely just been shooting pics – I may just give up my slot so someone else can climb too…

I broke a lens yesterday – the zoom ring on it just died – it was my 28-70mm F2.8…grumble…I mean – I can cover on the fixed 35 and fixed 50 no problem + I can probably get it fixed, but funds right now are SUPER low…what I really oughta do is invest in the 24-70mm F2.8 – the newer generation lens…it sucks – I’m pretty hard on my stuff – but then I guess that what happens when you’re a climbing photographer….my dead list is – a SB-600, a SB-800, a 18-55 F3.5-5.6 and a 28-70mm F2.8.

I’m really pinching the pennies to invest in a video camera – and start going that route.

Here are a couple photos from yesterday.

It hurts to hold my hands over my head.

23 December

Yesterday was a great day – the temps were cool, but nice in the sun – conditions were great! John Michael and I rolled up to the park around 9pm – I had passes, but he was 15 people deep in the waiting list – just as I finished an email – the park staff sounded that there were two slots left in a volunteer tour to East Mountain – We jumped at the opportunity and spent the day with two cool tour guides – Michael and his GF Stephanie.

Man – what a cool place – lots of good problems – we got to see Slash Face (Ashley – if you don’t know that problem – shame on you!) John Michael basically crushed – sending from V0 through V8 (don’t know if he did a V3?)

Lighting was horrible – actually worse than that – but I made do with what I had.

So today – I went into the park for about 5 hours – hung out with Matt and Charlotte again – Charlotte was taking a rest day – so I handed her my camera and gave her a few pointers – and then it got WINDY – it was crazy – like dust storm nasty crazy! I bailed at lunch time – headed back to the ranch – made some rice with beans – and then found Kristoph’s – a coffee shop in El Paso that has free, unrestricted internet (well – I can’t FTP, but other than that – I’m doing great)

On the drive here – I was barraged by a “herd” of tumble weeds – the one was BIG too – it was like maybe 3 feet in diameter – thankfully they all just bounced off the front of the Civic – but for a moment there – I was like….oh…….no……!

It was warm last night for the first time in forever – It was nice – I crawled out of the two sleeping bags and just used my sheet.

I’m sooooooooooooooooo incredibly pumped today – like it was hard to carry my photo gear around today – I was THAT pumped…I’m hoping to heal for tomorrow – but I dunno what’s gonna happen!

I ran again this morning – another 25 minutes – sufficient to say – I’m pretty beat up. It feels good though. Tomorrow I’m in the park again – bouldering – hopefully well rested and ready to CRUSH.

Mexico yah?

21 December

Today, I was waiting in line at Wal-Mart and it was a long line, so I started reading Cosmo – intrigued by the cover story – I flipped to see how to tell if “your man is ready for the long term commitment.” I checked – there were like five requirements – all of which I fit – like I’m financially responsible, I’m positive, I have my own “plan”, I’m willing to change for a woman (you know – become a boulderer or trad climber instead of a sport climber) – and one other one that I can’t remember. Women can apply in writing.

But seriously – today was a nice day – a rest day – and I didn’t have a park pass – at Hueco – you can only reserve 3 days in a row – then you need to take a day off – I spent the day wandering around in El Paso – I went to the dollar theatre – which is now the “two” dollar theatre. Then totally went to a duty free store – bought two bottles of tequila – walked into Mexico – and then immediately made a loop and walked back into the states – paid my 2 dollar duty – and voila.

I picked up John-Michael at the airport, we went into the park – wandered around a bit.
Showed him some of the classics – I think he’s SUPER psyched =) – I am too – I’ve been feeling really weak – my triceps are still soar from the first day on King Cobra (a particular boulder problem) – but then I guess I’m just getting stronger at Compression problems – a drastic contrast from climbing at the Red River Gorge.

22 December

Its 6am – and I couldn’t sleep any longer – I went into the ranch and unfortunately, there was someone sleeping in there…unfortunately for them – cause I didn’t realize until I was half way through breakfast – well – I have the lights back off now and am typing in the dark – and working on photos.

The desert has banging sunsets – here’s one that I caught while driving back from town – Totally jumped out of my car – ran into the sand some to get most of the power lines out of the shot and voila.




I’m hoping to notice a jump in my bouldering strength here soon – I’ve been getting my butt kicked – though I’ve also been picking problems which aren’t my style at all – I went running yesterday morning as well – only 15 minutes which is a bit pathetic for me – but I tend to have a lot of down time in the morning waiting for the sun to come up and the park to open – so I think that I’m really going to try and run at least 20 minutes every morning – that’ll help with my weight – I’m maybe 5 lbs heavier than I was a month ago – and I was pretty darned skinny then….

Sarah Heath Siting! No joke....

I still feel like someone punched my in both arms – bouldering is soooooooooooooo much different than sport climbing at the red river gorge – especially the problems I’ve been picking – sloper compression problems – Yesterday was a rest day.

Totally a Sarah Heath siting! I hung out with her and her brother the first half of the day – checked out some new areas on North Mountain that I hadn’t seen before + took some pics.

The second half of the day, I hung out with my pal Matt and his wife Charlotte – just chilling – taking some pics – they were both pretty hosed by the time I ran into them.

I’m picking up John-Michael at the AP tomorrow – tomorrow which is my first day out of the park since I’ve been here – I have a bunch of life stuff to do – like – well, buy some bowls – I don’t have any bowls, so I haven’t been able to eat rice or oatmeal or anything like that – just been sticking to fruit, banana bread, and chocolate (that Ashley gave me.)

Hueco

17 December



I marathoned it – OK maybe not entirely – I stopped to sleep several times – for a few hours each time – and sleep was sound, but short. I left Nashville Tuesday morning – it seems the ice and snow was following me. I HATE snow….Ice storms were forecasted Monday night – and Tuesday morning for Nashville, though I didn’t hit any real ice until Little Rock – though it was nuts there. I passed a dozen or more accidents – the bridges were almost all completely frozen – It was definitely sketchy, though I just kept my whits and all went fine.



Arkansas was a new state for me – though I had been to Texas before – at Hueco 3 winters ago. It doesn’t seem that much has changed here….at the Hueco Rock Ranch.



I’m sooooooooooo psyched! My north mountain passes start tomorrow – though one problem – there’s no internet here…



19 December



I had my first day in the park (bouldering) yesterday – I ran around for about an hour the day before – I have a Year Pass – so I can get in for free…dude – I love this place, but it sure doesn’t love me !!



I guess 4 months at the Red River Gorge – which is sustained endurance probably wasn’t the best training for Hueco Bouldering – which is awkward slopers and a sequence of 2 or 3 really POWERful moves… It’s all good though – I got a long while here – before I head off to the Obed to help Zak Roper do the guidebook for there.



Speaking of Zak – he and his GF Katelyn stopped by here to see me for a couple days – It was great to see them again – and I totally didn’t expect it –



Last night was pretty cold – it gets really cold in the desert – and since I don’t have gigatent anymore – I only have my small two person tent (when they say two person – they really mean like 1) – I brought my cot though – my back has been hurt lately (though feeling better) – so I set up my cot outside next to my tent – I tried to just use my down quilt and blanket – but I just couldn’t get cozy enough…once I crawled into my sleeping bag, I was good though.



I ran into my buddy Matt and his wife Charlotte at North Mountain – took some pics of them as well on this problem – Speed Bump – at the New Meadow.



I’ve been doing well with my diet – this morning – It was Orange Juice and lets see – 2 bananas and counting (I’m gonna try and eat four)



Its rad here – though expensive – camping is $4.00 a night….and I don’t really have any income – so I’m really going to have to take it easy…



I have passes today, but am going to take a break – take photos, even though I don’t feel like I need it – but my schedule is 3 days in the park, 1 day out of the park – so boulder a day, shoot a day, boulder a day – then rest.

Travel Map

I uploaded my travel map - I may be in Nasvhille a BIT longer - I don't know - we're suppose to get a bunch of nasty ice storms - I'd like to leave tomorrow morning - since Thursday is my first day for North Mountain passes at Hueco.

You know - it really feels like the snow and ice are following me =(

Funny thing - I was totally in a Panera in WV - and got talking with a random guy...told him about my lifestyle...well....he solemnly hands me a business card - goes "I work at a homeless shelter - if you ever need a warm place or meal - just call...."

A short 9

Seriously - I think I'm getting used to this driving thing - I left Greenville, NC and drove to Clarksburg, WV - 9 hours - through snow and it felt like nada....just hanging out at Panera, watching house - waiting to meet Laura at the rehearsal tonight - her wedding is tomorrow.

Driving through the mountains was a bit sketchy - there was a freezing rain last night; I got some rad pics - which I'll hopefully upload at a later date.

Sunday I leave for Hueco =)

Update - pics from coming through the mountains in Seneca!

LRC and Chattanooga

I really liked Chattanooga - I can really see myself living there in the future - the climbing is great, the people are cool, its a good town...if I can get enough photography work (and maybe videography work) - I can make it work?

I stayed with Brooke for the week in Chatty - it was great! =) I got a lot of work done, finished up a wedding - but mostly just climbed lots!

Saturday was the Stone Fort Triple Crown comp - I basically followed around the Friksn athletes and shot photos - mostly Nicole Hanson and Ashley Hamilton - though I did get some photos or other climbers - I'm currently holding most of those photos hoping to get some prints.

In Chatty - I totally finally shaved my scruffy beard - I really needed to - I was starting to look like a bum who lived in his tent...oh wait - nevermind =).....anyways - here are a few photos from the comp + the progression of my shaving.

Also - I took some glamour photos of Brooke - one of which is posted.

-Danno

Leeta or paraleacha?

Ok - that didn't make sense - but I didn't have tooo much time to thing - getting ready to head to Leeda for a "rest" day - I guess its this small area with lots of moderate sport climbs - I have this big hole in my finger from "Latin for Daggers" - which I got my butt kicked on at LRC.

Yesterday was nice and cool, but sunny day at LRC (Little Rock City aka Stone Fort) - which is actually a golf course - that has all these boulders in the woods next to it - you have to wake up early - since they only give out 35 passes a day (and register online) - Brooke myself and her BF Andrew spent 5 hours with a bunch of other peeps (The place filled up at 7am - I got up at 445 to register - which starts at 5am) -

I had a good day of bouldering - which suprised me - I was like - oh...well I guess I'm not such a pathetic boulderer after all - I finally sent my project - which is this V1 - I forget what its called, but its next to Mane Event...It took me maybe 8 goes...

OK time flies...and I still haven't fixed the brakes on my car - Its going to rain manana though - so perhaps I'll do it then...

A bit of rest and then some...

Some freaking awesome bouldering! I woke up this morning at 4:45 to register one of the covetted LRC passes this week - since its the Comp next weekend - everyone is trying to get in - I was the first person in - and seconds later - when I checked - 3 other people had registered - but not so fast....its definitely advantageous to wake up early to get in....and 445 wasn't so bad...

I'm almost done with wedding photos from the past wedding I did - just making the wedding CD - but today - bouldering - its beautiful out - sunny and mid 40s - a perfect day for LRC - hopefully I won't get my butt kicked =)

Chatty HO!

I've been in Chattanooga the past couple of days - just living it up! Its been raining the whole time - except of course - when Brooke and I went climbing at Foster Falls!

Foster Fall is sorta cool - small - its like a mini-Obed - and the Obed is like a mini- NRG.

I got my butt kicked on the warm-up - though after that - I felt STRONG - We got a Chattanooga start - that couple with realizing that we forgot a rope when we were 30 minutes away from Chatty - whoops!

It was sorta cold - but still sorta nice - I like it here in Chatty - I think that I could live here - The climbing is nice - its a good community - housing is fairly inexpensive - and I think I could probably make enough weddings here to live? Also - I'm hoping to get a video camera this spring and do a professional bouldering video for the area. At least that's the life plan =)

I love my life - it ROCKS!

Marathoned it

This morning, I drove from Morgantown, to the Red River Gorge - picked up my stuff - and then drove to Chatty - where I'm staying with my friend Brooke for the week =).

It looks like we're going to Foster Falls tomorrow - since its going to be rainy - and taking a rest day Monday - (more rain + Brooke has class.) - Then the rest of the week? Probably bouldering - but probably not LRC - since everyone is going to be trying to get in for the comp - and since I'm not competing - I don't want to take people's spots...so probably Rocktown - Foster Falls - some climbing...I'm really thinking about moving here next fall - but I'd like to check out the climbing too - don't get my wrong - I can boulder for the entire season (and spend the first part of winter at Hueco and the second part at Bishop) - but I sure do like routes =)

I got a bit annoyed today driving - my front tire is squealing - its really annoying - I think (and hope) that i just need new breaks - something I'll probably do this week...+ people were driving like morons + it was rainy...oh and it was about 10 hours worth of driving - including several stand-stills in Knoxville....

Yah Chatty!

The Future and Some Hand Lotion

I was walking through the mall yesterday (I was getting my hair cut) and this woman walked up to me - she was standing near a booth - well - first of all - I'm not used to being in the mall - and second of all - I'm not a jerk - if someone requests my attention - I'm not going to blow them off -

She was selling skin lotion - she said, "May I see your hands" - and i did of course - she went . oh...you have really calloused hands...i said - Yah - well I'm a rock climber, I need these....she goes....oh ok...well, are there any females on your christmas list - I go - yah, they're climbers too... and smile suggestively... and I go on to explain that I live in a tent and that I rock climb full time (and shoot photos.)

She then got another lotion (which was derived from the Dead Sea - lots of minerals and so forth) - and used it to clean my forearm - she said that my face was very dirty and that I needed to clean out the pores - I go - umm...I'm really sorry, but I'm not going to buy anything - she goes - oh no problem, thank you for my time....

Its funny - if I was at all vain or infact, knew any vain girls - she probably would have had the sale...but well....I think getting any of my female friends skin lotion would have been in insult...

Sooo the future part - well last night at the gym (i did the yellow and orange problem!! yaya) - I was thinking - maybe I should spend a season working at a climbing gym - that would be cool - and I'd probably get strong? I think I'd make a good climbing coach/route setter right? I'm sorta responsible?

Hair Cut!

I got my hair cut - it was SUPER long...not no more!

Out of the frying pan and into the fire...

Not so much so - I just left the Red a few days ago - it was really sad to leave - I really enjoyed it there - yah the climbing is nice - but I'm really going to miss the people - that's what really matters - people and friends...

Some I know I will see soon - some later - some never again - a thought which saddens me.

I'm here in Pittsburgh for the rest of the week - its really dreary - snowy - it seems every time I come north - its snowing and or raining - I leave 50 degrees and sunny for rain and snow...

That's life.

The past month has been good and bad -

Last weekend - I drove up to Coopers Rock (northern WV) with my good friend Ana Hayes - I was hoping to show her my home turf - though when we got there - there was about a foot of snow on the ground! Ana was a trooper - she bouldered anyways (and crushed!)

Its funny - my eating - I'm a vegetarian - but my grandpa thinks I'm crazy...he likes to feed me - but I keep telling him - NO MEAT =) - so I just pick it out of what he cooks me - he does really like to cook for me -

I asked him to get me soy milk - here - he got me soy milk egg nog (its actually pretty good + I looked at the ingredients and its legit - so what can I say?)

Next week - I'm going to spend the week in Chattanooga with my good friend Brooke - and then I'm going to do a bit more traveling - landing in WV for a few days to shoot a wedding - and THEN off to Hueco - I'll definitely be back to blogging now that I'm moving - blogging at the red would be difficult without being a chuffer - you know - talking about the routes that I've been doing - that is sorta frowned upon in the climbing world...

Until next week - good night and good luck...

-Danno

Just Hanging Out

I drove up to Pittsburgh for a few days - I just needed to get away from KY for a while...been working mainly on a wedding from a couple weeks ago - good wedding - I ran around like crazy the whole time - I don't think I got to stop running for about 12 hours...

I bouldered at Climb North - the climbing gym which I grew up at - it was nice to be back at the gym + they just had an ABS comp - so there were a bunch of new problems for me.

I'm not used to climbing two days in a row - let a lone bouldering - so day two - I got thoroughly thrashed - though I was sorta bad and had a non-diet soda and pink frosted cookies - which upset my stomach the whole time - oh well!

So I talked to my buddy Brooke and it looks like I'm going to spend a week in Chatty in and around the Triple Crown Comp - then I have a wedding - and THEN I'M OFF TO HUECO!!! =)

I'm really psyched!

Just living Life

The past week has been pretty RAD - I'm definitely falling into the climber lifestyle - its great!

I hung out with my dad in VA beach for a couple days - hitting up the VA Beach Rock gym - it was cool to climb on plastic - I don't really get much of a chance do to that - I was really psyched - I did the red sloper problem!!! - it took a few goes though.

I drove into Charlottesville Friday night and then Sat morning - Matt, Katherine and I marathoned it to the new for a day trip - It rained our entire drive there - though Endless Wall was dry in places - I was psyched to do my hardest trad route yet - What I am pretty sure is Carl's classic - The Rabbit Almost Died - it was wet - but only on the scary run-out ledge mantel... =) That night - we hit up the Chris Sharma slideshow - and then did a scary drive back to Charlottesville

Then Sunday - we drove to this crag - which is located on private property - I can't really say what its called or where it is - but its RAD! There I tried a project (for me) - I didn't do it - but I feel really close on it. I'm either going to stay here and try it the rest of the week (its rainy here today,) or drive to the New River Gorge and climb for two days with Eddie and Rachel Mellville -

OK - gonna go back to sleeping on the couch and watching movies - life is tough =)

Photo is of Matt Fanning on Harlequin

Back in my tent again

This morning, I woke up to the chirping of the birds, the falling of leaves on my tarp – the soft morning bustle at Miguel’s – yes folks – it’s a scary world out there – a scary world for one who has no responsibility; but it was great to wake up in my tent (and comfy cot) againI went for a run this morning – taking the advice from friend – I started running.

The first day and the first week of running are always the hardest, but I was surprised at how easy it felt to run today – (its hard both mentally and physically) – but both felt great…granted I only ran 20 minutes – which is like super chill – still…

Life is good –

Horse Pens 40

Once again its been a while since I blogged, though not really all that much has happened – I climbed at the Red…and I climbed at the Red…and I climbed at the Red =). Life is really peaceful – I’m really starting to embrace my life climbing full time – for one, things go a lot slower – for another – when someone asks me what time it is, my general response is “Who Cares!” - Because I sure don’t.

I spend the 4 day weekend at HP-40 (or Horse Pens – 40 ), a bouldering area in Alabama. Ashley and I ran into a crew from Chattanooga – and we spend some of the time hanging out with them.

I’m pretty tore up – from climbing for so long, bouldering hit me particularly hard – though I feel like this weekend will definitely get me strong. What I’m going to do next season is still up in the air – Definitely the Obed through Feb and March into RRG season – then Spring at the Red, (with a Spring break trip to Hueco), then Summer – I’d like to try and work temporary in Charleston.

And then the Fall? Who knows – maybe the Red, maybe Chattanooga if I can afford it…maybe the Obed again? Maybe the New? Who knows….life is up in the air and I like that =).

I’m thinking about doing a bouldering comp at Coopers Rock next spring – I could definitely use some feedback on that – I’m thinking either the first or second weekend in September as to not interfere with Triple Crown.

A side note – I’m thinking about maybe spending a month here at HP-40 maybe next October/November – its nice here…though a bit expensive….

Oh – and I think that I’m going to get a video camera soon – so I can start doing videos – I’ll need to somehow talk Bill into letting me borrow my computer back though – because I’ll definitely need it (or it would help a lot) – I have some video software on my laptop, but you really need a REAL computer to do video stuff….and that’s what I bought my Mac for anyways….but then where can I keep my Mac? All these questions…sigh…maybe I can get a house for the winter in Chatty? But then how would I pay for that? I have a lot of things to work out….

Photos by Ashley Hamilton

Busy huh?

You would thing I have a real job for the way things are going - and well, I guess the photog thing is sort of a real job -

I've been climbing lots - training as well - and just having a lot of fun. Elodie bought me Brisingr - the new Eragon book and I've been reading the heck out of it - what a good book...

Saturday was a trail day at Muir Valley - it was loads of fun and we got a heck of a lot done - I have images from the day here:

http://www.brayackmedia.com/muir_gal/

I'm really starting to feel skinny - and people are starting to notice - =) - its about time huh? I guess a month at the red will do that to you - and its weird, but it went so fast - I only have two more months! Oh man...so much to do, so little time.......

Update

I really can't believe that I've been this busy - I mean - I don't really have a job do I? Well - I sort of do - I've been doing trail work for Muir Valley - Rick is really nice and has been giving me some good, meaningful hard labor - which helps me to be a stronger climber.

Last weekend, I met Joel Brady at the New River Gorge and Coopers Rock for a bouldering session - definitely a rad time -

So what have I been doing? Mostly just photo stuff, working, and climbing - climbing LOTS - and training as well - I've been doing lots of sit-ups and push ups, even on climbing days, trying to get in shape for the climbing season.

I've also been shooting a lot of photos, though I need to hold those because I may be able to run some of them. I may actually not be in the red this month - though I'm not entirely sure - I got paid for doing a webpage for a guy too - which was nice.

Life here is pretty nice - very different - there are new people every week - and there are a group of core people here for the season - two couples - the Britts and the Aussie's both who are really nice and have a chipper humor about them - Also, I've been climbing with both a French girl - Elodie and a Russian girl - Elena - (Yealena or something like that in Russian - I can never SAY it correct...)

OK - today is a volunteer day at Muir Valley - I woke up at 630 - am going to eat breakfast, finish this post, exercise (abs and push) and then head off....ciao!

-Danno

A real day of work.

It may have been the first day of actual work in my entire life....

It was a long and hard and very enjoyable day working with Rick Webber - A nice 8 hours of trail work and seeding...I's this kind of work that will get me in shape!

Rest Day...not so much so...

I took a rest day Thursday - My fingers really needed, but I met Elodie, and Thomas at the Motherlode for photos.

Instead of ascending the whole way, or climbing a route - I decided to just walk around the top of the Motherlode to take photos - BAD idea....it took maybe 20 minutes, it was really hot - and my legs just finally stopped bleeding (3 days later) from the bushwhack!

The hardest part, of course, is finding the right place to drop your rope, while not sliding down the hill to the eventual hill and ultimately your death.....

I ran again too - another 40 minutes on the "Pinch 'em Tight" trail a "fairly" flat trail....I feel like I'm getting into good shape - I've been eating well - and not eating too much.

Another stride

well, today I made another stride toward being in shape - I managed to onsite a 12a at Muir Valley - ok - so it was a glorified boulder problem with party tick beta - and then 70 feet of 5.9 - but hey - I'll take it!

I also tried a 7c - called Triple Sect - which felt great - totally my style - 3 cruxes for me - the first a dyno which I can do when I'm alittle lighter and the other two which are high probability for me if I'm in shape to stick the first move.

I'm going to start training next week - gotta hear back from my hardcore training friend - see what she's doing - then adapt my summer training from my fall training schedule...

A nice run....

I've lost 10 lbs since I left WV - that feels great! I still have like another 10 to go before I'm a super human - but thats OK right? The next 5 won't be easy and the last 5 has always been really hard for me....

I ran 40 minutes yesterday - I only meant to run 30, but was having such a nice run on a trail that I just kept going. Natasha at the campground turned me onto this area - there are a bunch of splits and turns, but the main trail goes 18 miles - more than I'll ever need....so I'm hoping to keep that consistent - running that is. I should have enough time to do that daily, resting on weekends, but with all the climbing I'm going to do????? =)

I think that I'll be getting some consistent work as well - so I can truly live without dipping into the funds.

My goal is to save up or have enough cash to buy a video camera and some accessories for it, then try and put together a "rampage" bouldering video with a few of my climber friends - namely Ashley, and a few others who I've met along the way.

Life is good bubba.

Da Pump....

If anyone has ever been to Muir Valley - they know how much the hike out sucks...it sucks big time! But the climbing is definitely worth it -

Having thrashed myself thoroughly yesterday, I figured - what the heck - do as many as I can - then just crap out...

well, I did 4 new routes - all moderates - then I got on Cell Block 6....at the Midnight Surf - yup game over...it was good though - I figured out several of the crux moves - and am hoping to project it - I'll have to work hard for it though....

Then I totally curled up - stacked some draws, my water bottle and my pack and took a nap - I was TOTALLY out.....REM and everything I think....cause I woke up like an hour later...like oh...heh...

Da Lode

Today was my second day of climbing at the Red - I've been feeling pretty light - which is good, though I still don't feel SUPER good - like I was last fall, but then its only a matter of time - I took another rest day from running today - since my legs still hurt (it always takes a little while to get back into run shape - I found I have to go slow)

We climbed at the Motherlode today - Pretty much, I just did laps (as high as I could go) on Chainsaw Massacre and Ale-8-One....it felt great - I totally blew clipping on my last go and took a good 40 some foot fall - it was really rad!

Also, I took photos of a visiting Russian climber - Elena - Euros are strong no?

Red River Home

I got to climb yesterday – its BEEN hot, but yesterday – as the day progressed, it got cooler and it feels cool this morning – hopefully temps will be better (according to the weather channel its going to…)

I felt good – light, I’ve been pretty much starving myself – I really need to drop some weight for the fall season – I figure a couple weeks of low caloric intake and running (actually 6 weeks of running) oughta do the trick.

I am basically all moved into my tent – and I did a BIG sort – so my tent looks liveable, but really cluttered – I need to get a couple more big buckets for stuff – and do some basic picking up – but it looks good vern….I hope it rains soon – so I can take a look at my drainage situation as well….

Maybe I’ll take a shower today – its been a while!

Chatty HO

2 September (3)

Chattanooga was TOTALLY rad, though we definitely got the “Chattanooga Start” all three days – which means, we don’t actually get to the crag until 1130 or noon – because well, we sleep in, then move really slow.

We climbed two days at LRC (or Stone Fort as its called now), both days were a bit hot, but manageable. The best day was Day 3 at Rocktown – even though it was further away (and we needed to drive back to Nashville that night.)

Temps felt great (comparatively) – and friction was decent – though after too much effort, one began to sweat profusely – so you really had to pace yourself with problems for the sweat factor.

Lighting was DECENT, but not great the entire weekend, probably the best on Monday (the third day), though on Monday, we were mostly doing roofs – so I shot a bunch of off-camera flash. I have a lot of photo work presently, but will add photos to this – as well as all my other blog posts tonight or tomorrow.

I slept in a bit in Nashville – then made my way to my permanent (well for the season) home at Miguel’s at the Red River Gorge…

Hiking

2 September (2)

Denver was cool – I woke up in a rest area (another great night – 8 hours with limiting wake-ups) – I hung out in a Panera for most of the day (eating French Onion Soup in a Bread Bowl – which used to be a common staple – now which is TOO much for me to eat) –

At 5pm – I met up with Jacqueline and we went for a hike in the mountains – a long hike…it was nice, but very steep – I was thankful that I was acclimated at this point in the trip – otherwise, I would have died.

We hiked up to a nice spot and then hung out for a while – doing some stream diversions – and then hiked down in the dark – that night I left around 9 or so and drove until I got sleepy – then passed out in a rest area. I got up that morning at around 5 and just freaking Marathoned – It was Friday and I wanted to leave Nashville for Chattanooga Saturday morning – I drove about 20 hours – before arriving in Nashville, only to pass out….

Rifle and Carbondale

2 September

Just got back to the Red – nothing stolen as far as I can tell – not that I have anything worth stealing anyways – but I did break a tent pole – the epoxy is setting as we speak –

The past week has been pretty busy – once again – not much down time – though its hot at the RRG and I feel like I’ll have a good bit of time to focus on my photography and my website overhaul.

Rifle was cool – I woke up at a rest area – after a great 8 hours of sleep in the front seat of my car – scary huh? I’m getting used to it … about time.

I spent a few hours in the Rifle County Library – which was no where near as nice as the Moab Library, but cool – none then less, then I phoned Dave Pegg – who makes the best guides I’ve ever seen – Wolverine.

I got lost trying to find his place, but then rolled up to his freaking RAD house – an exquisite view of the mountains – horses in a pasture, chickens clucking.

As I roll up, I’m greeted by his wife, Fiona (both she and Dave have excellent British accents) who asked if I could shot some photos of her horses – OF COURSE! It was fun – she showed me some photos of galloping horses in a “horse” calendar – in my mind, I pictured an wedding photographer, looking through the yearly Rock and Ice Calendar, thinking (Yah, how hard could climbing photos be?) – then I projected my face onto him…yup…I can do this….

What you need to do, she explained, is get the horses in gallop – thankful of my Camera’s focus tracking – and the bright sunlight (I could have lived with overcast, but you get what you get in the desert.) It went well, from what I gather, she seemed really psyched on them – I felt like I was going to get run over a couple times – but other than that, it went off without a hitch.

I hung out with Dave some more at his place, he was gracious enough to let me shower, then I headed on my way to Carbondale to check out the Biz at Rock and Ice – I hung out with a couple of the editors (Jeff and Duane were out climbing – tough job huh? =) ), then headed up to a little bouldering area that Andrew had suggested – it was a nice area, but I wasn’t feeling SUPER on it, so I just relaxed, listened to “Dune” Audio Book, east some dinner and then started my drive for Denver.