Day 3 in a row...

I need to take a rest day tomorrow - my skin is really thin and my shoulders - once again - feel like I've been punched -

This place IS REALLY COOL. - oh and I ran into Jake - a cool dude from the RRG (well - he lives in Vermont) - gonna shoot him on this V12 called Maze of Death on Monday...stay posted.

BISHOP!

Wow....I could live here (in the winter) I hear the summer sucks BAD - this place is amazing - And I've only seen the Happy's....it was like Hueco - except A LOT MORE CONCENTRATED and LESS SHARP - same rock - but more solid - wow. Its pretty hot - I'm gonna wait a few hours - and then head up to the Buttermilks.

Next Winter - I'll probably spend like 2 weeks at Hueco and spend the rest of the time HERE - WOW!

Viva Las Red Rocks

Flagstaff is nice – it’s a small college town; it reminds me a lot of Morgantown – I could live here – there’s a big mountain in the background, bouldering, a lake…a bunch of coffee shops? Yah – this place is SWEET.

The drive to Red Rocks (Vegas) wasn’t so bad….Vegas – I got bored really quick. I figured that I’d be tired enough that I could make some stupid financial decisions and waste 100 bucks – but well…yah I guess I wasn’t tired enough…instead I just walked maybe a mile or two down the main drag – parking in Circus Circus, walking through the Mirage, Ceasar’s Palace – a few others…It was cool – lots of people to read, analyze and catalog. Here was the street breakdown:

53 percent AARP discount
22 percent Japanimation!
10 percent standard family
9 percent “Would you like fries with that/pretty watch for pretty girl”
6 percent “Spare some change? A free meal?” (This is where I fit in)
4 percent “Carries a gun for my benefit”
2 percent “Carries a gun NOT for my benefit”

OK its 635 and I’m antsy – going bouldering

----after bouldering---

A good session – I ran into a local cat – Andrew – who was super cool – bouldered with him in the morning….the rock is cool – it reminds me a lot of the mills actually – not the look – but the texture..though softer….I found a nice public library to hang out in …

The bouldering here is good – though not so much of it – I’m hoping to do a bouldering rampage next winter – a road trip with the video camera – and Vegas will be a stop for a day or two…no more…unless of course – I get shown some of the “new” stuff Andy was talking about… =)

For lunch, I had a bagel with Avocado and humus….pretty good =)

I’m gonna hang out here and either head to Bishop tonight after dinner or tomorrow morning…

quick hit

Just woke up in parking lot in Vegas - a bit sketchy - someone definitely checked out my car last night while I was in it - I slept in the gear shop parking lot....go figure...

I was going to give myself 100 bucks to blow in the casinos but ended up spending seven bucks for a bean burrito and that was it....Kinda boring - yah flashy I guess...

more later back to sleep - found a quiet parking lot...

From White Sands to White Snows...

27 January

Well, I left Hueco – Hueco was cool – but after a month – I sorta burned out – I think a month is a good limit for a destination while on the road – long enough time to settle in – but then you start to settle in too much…

I drove to White Sands, NM today – SUPER COOL – it’s a bunch of white sand dunes in this valley. I also stopped at the White Sands Missile Test Site – kinda boring…actually – but whatever right?

I’ve been spending most of the day driving – I found this nice little rest area – I’m on US 70 – on my way to Queen’s Creek to boulder a day or two – depending on quality. This area is East of Phoenix and hosts the Phoenix area bouldering comp (you may have seen this in some older videos)

I’m hoping to make it there tonight – I’m in Bylan or something like that – a little rest area. It’s a bit sketchy here – I’m kinda ready to grab things and run if I have to =)

Nah – its not that bad….ok maybe it is.

(oh wow – a scary cat fight right now – maybe I SHOUD leave it’s a sign)

OK Back in my car – too be continued at a safer location.

OK – I’m here a little sketch no – doubt – a free, empty campground…down over a hill….safe enough in my car; I have it packed pretty tight so I’m just going to sleep in the driver’s seat.

Seems to be a lot of moisture here – you know – I only saw rain once since I’ve been at Hueco (and heard it one other time while sleeping in my tent.) It’ll be different.

So if you’re wondering where I’m at – Google Globe, Arizona – I’m about 15 miles west of there (on route 60)

I’m definitely feeling sketch in this parking lot – I oughta get to sleep here soon…


28 January 2009

OK – that place sucked – I woke up – tried to find it from the crappy topo - which was really crappy (Dr Topo BLAH) – well – I couldn’t find it so – I left and am now in the Flagstaff Public Library.

The drive was fantastic – I skipped Phoenix and drove on a two lane state highway (and some county highway) all the way to Flagstaff. I’m in town to get some directions to Priest Draw – then I’m going to go and scout it out today – prolly boulder some today – if I like it – stay here tonight – hit it again tomorrow and then head for Bishop. I decided to skip J. Tree – I’ll check it out on the way back.

I only stopped a few times for photos – though this mountain plateau had THE COOLEST LAKE – it was maybe 50 degrees there too – which leads me to believe that it’s a BANGING summer destination. I did right my name in the snow a few times...

OH and I know about the dust on the lens - haven't had time to clone...

25 January 2009

Its been a few days since I’ve blogged – I’ve been kinda bumming over my hurting back – but its FEELING MUCH BETTER now =) I’ve been taking some Ibu-profin and feel like I could climb – but I’m just taking it easy – I did an easy day today – went out in the morning with Jimmy and Kasia – they had to leave so I dropped them off at the AP – we were only in the park for two hours – enough time for me to stretch and do some moderates.

I’m feeling strong though! I’ve just been taking it easy – but we did several really good High Ball moderates – one which I can’t post the name – and another called “Gums” which was QUITE good – Having climbed for so long – I don’t really get scared that often anymore – but wow – yah – I definitely got scared on Gums!!! If you fall – its totally death!

And I’m feeling light too – but I need to maintain the constitution and keep up my good eating and exercise.


It looks like I have a travel companion too! Chris Hale is going to ride with me to Bishop – We’re planning on stopping several places too – including White Sands at Ray and Michelle’s suggestion.

I’ll do a new travel map.

Climbed yesterday and today with Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras – as well as with Jeremy and Chris and Brian – got some pics for you – fooshizzle…

Pulled Back Muscle

Dude - it really hurts - I pulled a muscle in my back =(

Taking two rest days...and I've already exhausted (Fox on Demand) - except - of course - Terminator, the Sarah Connor chronicles.....ummm.....yah - its that bad.

KY REPRESENT!

21 January 2009

I had a good day climbing with the RRG crew – it was Aaron, Ray and Michelle, Roger and Corey – and Steph and Mike. North Mountain of course – I worked more on my project – Mexican Chicken – Roger gave me really good Beta – I just need to suck it up and stick the crux move – I have the rest of it pretty well wired.

I hurt my back yesterday – it’s a back muscle – its really tight today – I can feel it – I’m going to rest it today then stretch it tonight – tomorrow is another rest day.

Bishop yo!

19 January 2009

Its official – heading to Bishop for the month of February. I’m picking up Elodie in Phoenix March 6th – then heading East to climb with Matt at the Red for Spring Break – then heading to Hueco with Ashley for her spring break – then back East to the Obed for the Spring season.

Sea of Holes

19 January 2009

See of Holes? That’s a good description; and here would be my guidebook description:

See of Holes (5.8 X) – P1. Scramble up about 30 feet on scary slab until you find a good (enough) place to stand and belay. Boulder up the face for 20 feet until the first bolt (5.5 X) – make sure you have about 50 feet of slack – otherwise you’ll pull your belayer down the slab with you too…A dicey #3 BD in a hollow pocket protects the slab and it might slow you down enough to make the fall scary. Clip the first bolt and continue for another 120 feet passing 2 more bolts to a belay (one good bolt and one really bad bolt.) (5.6 R/X)

P2. Continue up and right for another 150 feet passing 4 bolts. Basically on this pitch – the rope only benefits the second, but you always have a jug hand and or foot – so just don’t faul…

All of the bolts on this route are good – though a couple hangers look like they’re homemaders. Definitely a classic. The bolts are where they need to be.

We did anther route – Window Pane (5.10b/c) – After two summers of bolting at the Meadow – I should have learned my lesson – when you see a split grade – you better freaking watch out! It was a full 150 foot route – with pretty continuous 5.10c moves…really good – really techy – really balancy – and really mentally taxing – I didn’t really feel like I was going to fall at any point – but I was just mentally TARD when I got to the chains…it was 11 bolts and still really freaking run out!

The climbing at Hueco is cool =)

East Spur

18 January (part1)

I went on tour yesterday – went with Jimmy, Kasia, and Chris and a few other cats from the Rock Ranch – we had a good day – Jimmy, of course crushed – and I was really psyched to do this one “new” problem – a grade was proposed for it, but it seemed a bit outa whack for me- but then I guess at Hueco – the harder the problems get – the easier they get for the grade.

I totally got my butt kicked on “The Egg (V8)” – definitely not my style – I couldn’t even get into the knee bar start – I tried it like 6 times – each time rocketing straight into my pad – and was like OK SCREW THIS.

I’m still looking for that 150 foot vertical V7….endurance haul…..

I managed to stick the first move on New Religion – which I couldn’t do last time – though the second move….eep…(There’s really only two moves – two big dynos) – its weird because my campus strength feels terrible (for those no climbers – imagine crabbing two climbing holds, doing a pull up – letting go with one and reaching up to another one) – I tried to campus a few moves yesterday – and was like….oh crap….this is hard! I must be really beat – I don’t know…Maybe Bishop will treat me better? Its more techy there (balance and small holds instead of steep and raw powerful.)


18 January (part2)

The way its looking, Its looking like I’m going to spend another month out west. The original plan was to pick up Elodie in Phoenix Feb 1st, however, she’s now not coming until early March – so oh…no….I’m stuck out west for another month =) – I’m going to Bishop =)



I’m actually totally psyched – though bummed that I’m not gonna get to see Elodie for another month. But Bishop – Heck YAH!

I had an OK day yesterday – took a few rest days – I fell REALLY dead this morning – I have a tour today – but I’m thinking about just taking a rest day – my shoulders are KILLING me…..I really just don’t think I can do two rest days today – I dunno….

I’m gonna take a nice long shower and see how things feel.

I’ve been reading a lot into the video stuff and really think that I can do a good job with it – I mean – its like a photo – except moving – and there’s a lot to learn – but I really enjoy learning that sort of thing…

OK

I’m signed up for a tour today – but I think I’m going to just take a rest day – I think its Sunday – which means that the coffee shops don’t open until noon – so I’ll probably hang out at the Rock Ranch Barn and just read for another 4 hours. I actually slept in here last night – sort of a no-no, but my back has been hurting + its really comfy on the couches – I talked to the campground host last night and he was like, “Dude, don’t worry about it.”

Oh wait – looks like I’m going climbing today – George, the campground host and I are going in – I don’t have park passes today – but he said that he has passes – sooooo yeah! I’ll take a rest day tomorrow then =)

Looking at the Bishop guide – It looks like the stuff that is going to be warm is more Volcanic stuff – like here – so yup – gonna be the same maybe? Maybe not – there IS the Buttermilks; which is – as I described above – its colder – but I can always just pick warm days and go there….

Bishop huh?

Elodie emailed me - I may be going to Bishop for the month of Feb before heading back east to the Obed - That would be kinda cool I think - its about 100 bucks in gas to get there though...hmmm...yah - I'm kinda psyched - its cold at the Obed this time of year anways right?

3 days rest

I feel like such a wanker - 3 days rest...but today I'm feeling soooo much better like it almost doesn't feel like someone's been punching me in the arms - and I'm not feeling so run down - actually - I feel good - I'm really really psyched to boulder tomorrow too!

The downside of living in a tent

You know - it happens more than you'd think.

At 4:48am some dude realized that he (or someone allegedly) spilled water all over the inside of his tent. He was obviously drunk and kept scream really loudly many words which are not fit for printing - that he was going to "murder someone" etc. The screaming and ranting - which I hoped would stop didn't - it continued for about 15 minutes...at which point, I realized that I had two options:

Option 1: Confront him - I figured that he was drunk; a roundhouse to the face oughta do the job - but then he was probably drunk enough not to feel it - then I considered one of the many rocks laying outside my tent - but then I thought about how much it would suck having to rap the unconscious dude in my sleeping bag so he didn't die from exposure (its about 30 degrees at night.) Then I considered the consequences of this action - he sounded crazy enough to have a gun - and I started thinking of the ways that I'd prefer to die:

Option A: Being shot to death in my tent because I couldn't sleep by some drunk guy who has water all over his tent.

Option B: Get shot out by the chemical shed at a Mexican Prison because I got caught in the country without a passport and a purdy mouth.

Option C: Realize my life-long dream of being in a Soccer Riot (and bashing some French skulls.)

Both B & C sounded better - so I considered Option 2

Option 2: Walk out there - tell the dude to SHUT THE (HECK) up - give him my sleeping bag, and tell him to go sleep in the barn (out of the wind.)

I choose Option 2. Compassion no....See - I learned a few things from Bob - and one of the most important things is that revenge is a dish best served cold (or wait - did I learn that from Kill Bill?)

I gave him my spare sleeping bag, told him to (WELL YOU KNOW) - and told him to go sleep in the barn - the advantages of this? And how does revenge have anything to do with this? Well, I woke up this morning at 6:30 - made a bunch of noise in the barn until he poked his head out of my sleeping bag.

Good morning I said pleasantly. Nice to meet you I replied.

That's two down and like...well 20 to go...

13 January

I totally did my project today – I was really psyched its not like hard or anything, I mean – it was hard for me – it was my hardest (number) grade I sent – not counting the NRG nor Coopers Rock (what the grades should be.)

It was rad – I totally beat it into submission though – and managed to do it first go today. It’s really sharp – especially the start. Two days ago – I tried it from the start twice – fell at the crux twice – then pulled on from just before the crux and did it twice from there. My fingers definitely remembered the pain of the holds – the way the problem is situated, you can pretty much feel the entire problem – even though its about 35 feet – there’s a bouder behind it that follows it up – this is great – because its totally safe – you can fall ANYWHERE – you just land on the pad and surf it down...well I mean – if you blow the 5.9 topout you’re dead – but whatever right? No spot required. Thanks to Aaron Kupferer for not spotting me and taking photos – I didn’t even know he was shooting them =).

I didn’t realize how much I beat myself today – I mean – I knew that I beat myself – but I didn’t think it was this bad…I was sitting here typing, reading, watching a bouldering video – and then the next thing I new, I was curled up under my sleeping bag and then the next thing I know – I woke up and I was watching another bouldering video – it was no longer 6pm but 7:30…woah…

I’m still under my sleeping bag – I’m warm and comfy and soar – my shoulders really hurt – my feet hurt…my well…shoulders really hurt and so do my triceps. I wonder what the heck that was from – its not like I did THAT much today – well ok maybe I did. Heading into town to the coffee shops tomorrow….its 7:42pm – and I’m tired – I could go to bed right now – I may very well….and I feel like I could sleep all the way through the night – that’s yet to be proven, but I think I’ll give it a try really soon.


Update - made it til 6:48 am - then drove into town to the coffee shop...

Desert Abundance

At first glance, the desert seems to be a dead place its brown, dry, there's sharp things all over the place, mostly sand but ...

...but when you take a closer look - its really a drove of abundance!

There are berries, large - apple sized fruit - little birds, quail, wild pigs (Javalinas), coyotes, rabbits, road runners, WATER (if you know where to look for it - of follow the ancient paintings - a snake painted always points to water)

Its truly beautiful here.

I'm getting so close - my fingers are starting to remember the pain of the crimpers on the crux

11 January

Today was a good day – I’m like suuuuper close on my project =) I think that maybe I can do it Tuesday (after a rest tomorrow of course) – I fell off the crux twice - both times just missing the hold – though I did it twice starting halfway…it’ll go. I got my butt kicked on Baby Face though…that problem is definitely hard for me – but if I can do Guns of Navarone, then that’ll be my next one ?maybe – its hard…

I shot pics of Matt and Ike today – in the Martini Roof. It’s a shame that Matt has to head back to Maryland here – time does fly…

I’m getting psyched for Vegas – hopefully I’ll be able to do some rock scaling after bouldering for so long…

Today I took a nice long warm nap in the sun – I had a big breakfast of Pasta – went into the park – my stomach wasn’t settle – so I spread my pad out in the middle of some grass – and just closed my eyes – layed in the sun – it was excellent. The wind was blowing gently, but it wasn’t hitting me – just rustling in the grass – it was serene.

I was Vegan today – no problem either – breakfast was pasta, lunch was PB&J – and dinner was rice with humus.

Feature on Thoma's Blogger

I got a photo featured on Thomas Cunningham's blog -

Notice the difference between Canon and Nikon images (my image v Ed's)

http://tcclimbing.blogspot.com/2008/12/few-climbs-from-red-river-gorge.html

Party Time!

So there was a party - it was $5.00 for all you can eat burgers..and I was really tempted - I mean - all the guys were eating burgers...but then I looked at the frozen burgers - they were yellow - the burgers on the grill were "melting" fat into the charcoal - the grill itself (the metal part) actually caught on fire at one point - and then it was an easy decision - there's no way in H*#$ that I'm going to eat that...so I just made myself dinner....

I played Foosball - I'm actually getting decent at it - though Daniel (left) is REALLY good and carried the team...on the right is Aaron from the RRG - he's out here for quite a long time =)

Unfortunately, Hueco (the dog) had way too much to drink - way to early and she passed out before the going got good...

Big Fall...

We were planning on route climbing yesterday - but we decided to stop and try this V2 highball - like REALLY high ball - Two Minutes Under Water. I did the problem - sketchy yes..and then took photos of George - the campground host on it. Next my recent friend Fumei? (Foo - Me - Aye) god on it - got scared and jumped from the top. She was EXTREMELY lucky to not get hurt too bad - other than a dinged head (mild concussion?) and possibly factured heal - she is OK.

It was bad... and could have been much worse....

It was about 30-35 feet onto rock - you can't see the ground in the shot - since it was in the shade - but its about 15 feet below the boulder that you start on - the problem arches up and left - so the ground drops off after you step on...

Going Climbing Today at Hueco!

Getting geared up - trad and sport - the dude was like - yah I never trad climbed before - I want to try it! I looked at the guide - and its said that half the stuff in the guide was from memory...I'm gonna die...well - maybe I just won't fall....yah - that's how it'll go down...

Massage

7 January

Wow – how to keep this one PC…well I’ll just keep it plain and simple – I went for an hour free massage yesterday – it was great. There is this Western Technical College – they’re a massage college – I went for a free hour massage yesterday – it was great!

The first thing I did was apologize about how bad my feet smelled. Then I stated thinking that maybe I should have put on some deodorant – not that I have in the past 8 months (except for weddings,) or at least taken a shower since I’ve been here.

She told me to take off my cloths and lay down…then she started on my feet…ok wait – keep it plain and simple.

As far as feet go – climbers probably have a lot of professions beat – we cram our feat into the smallest shoes we possible can – so we can stand on extremely small things – well after cramming one’s foot into a shoe like that for 13 years – well….she rubbed my feet – it was great!

She even touched my….oh wait…well, she called it a glutei massage..

7 Jan

Update - I feel like crap today - bad soy milk I think - did a bunch of easy high balls - got my butt kicked HARD on my projects =(

Goals

6 January

OK – not to be cliché and do the whole new years resolution thing – But I figured I should state my goals for the year.

As far as projects:

Red River Gorge Album (8x10)

Weddings Album (8x10)

Finish the Obed Guide by early summer

Get my stuff together and star working on a bouldering video

And Climbing:

Break 200 5.12 redpoints

Climb 3? 5.13s?

Boulder 10 V6s, 5 V7s and maybe 1 V8

It was one of those lifetime goals - and it went down!

5 January

I had such a GREAT day today – I finally sent one of my projects! When I came here – I didn’t think that I really had a style – but I guess I do – crimpers. It was great – I had grown up hoping to some day do this problem – and when I was at the top of it (its really high) – I felt like I was in a dream – it was sooooo rad! I think its probably one of the best sends of my life – (its not THAT hard – but still – it really meant a lot to me)

My fingers are killing me – I put two burns on my next project – a LONG crimpy problem – totally just MISSED the crimper for the crux – I think that I’m going to get on it fresh in two days and see if I can do it – I really only get like 2 goes a day on it – its THAT sharp….Heading into town tomorrow to spend the day working – I’m just about done with Laura’s wedding – just need to make a final pass…

I’ve been reading Ayn Rand’s – the Fountainhead as suggested by Roger Marlow – it’s a good book for sure – pretty cool – and then I’m going to read “Eat To Live” next.

I’m feeling so good!

6 January

It was a windy night last night – sorta annoying – I had the good sense to bring my headphones though – to drown out the wind and try to sleep – I went to bed like super early (715) – though only was up for one big stretch during the night…then slept in til first light…I’m in town today – tying up some loose ends.

Tomorrow I’m back on North Mountain – gonna try and send another one of my projects – a sharp 35 foot crimp fest – I tried it twice yesterday – though my crimpers were already hurting – I really need to be fresh for it – I got all the way to the crux – and just missed the good hold and fell off! It’s a hard move for me – its really really crimpy – and the last move is sort of a body tension move – body tension which you’ve already wasted getting there – Its really my style though – I think it’ll go hopefully soon.

I’m feeling really close on another project of mine – a roof – I can do all the moves now – except the one consistently and I almost stuck that one move twice yesterday - =) I love my life.

hitting a stride?

3 January

Today was a good day – I really feel like I’m starting to hit my stride here at Hueco – I’m feeling strong(er) – for sure than when I came here – starting to put serious burns in my projects. I tried a new problem today – a techy highball with decent (some would say bad) crimpers….I almost second goed it and think that I can maybe do it next fresh day (I’m going to climb again tomorrow – being two days on and see if I can do it then)

Life is definitely good here – I wake up whenever – go into the park until my skin and or muscles hurt – then come back – make myself some rice – work on photos, write in my journal, read…yah – life is definitely tough =)

So what do I do on my day-to-day? Well – I’m getting really good at foosball – its like – the thing to do at Hueco – we don’t have internet – there’s fires of course- but not all the time – we watch movies on Weds nights – and we .. well… play Foosball…. Yup…and I’m getting pretty OK at it… got my cross pattern 3 bar shot down pat…and my 2 bar dump…I’m still pretty bad with my 5 bar.

Ok – its totally 830 and I’m tired – its been dark for like 3 hours – so its time to hit it…..tomorrow I’m gonna climb two days in a row…and then either take two rest days or climb 3 days in a row – I think I’m getting to the point where I can probably handle 3 days…

We shall see though….I sorta took an easy day today – though skin was definitely the limiting factor today.


4 January

I decided to take a rest day after all – I woke up my “See Spot Run” crimper was still hurting…heading into town here in a bit – gonna give my NM pass to someone first though – then gonna jetta on it.

Oh – and the girl in the photos was the one hit by the Roman Candle in the face.

Dexter - pretty good show...

Just finishing up the last episode of my favorite TV show - Dexter - its pretty good - its about a serial killer that only kills other serial killers =)

As requested, I've uploaded another travel map - the next year is a bit fuzzy - though I'm coming up to Pittsburgh probably in April - would like to do a couple days at the gym - hang out with the Fam and Bob - Hey - Bob - I can do a slideshow at Climb North if you think people would be psyched?

Not a bad day...actually a good one

I felt REALLY good on my projects yesterday - I'm down to one move on the one - and I got further than ever on my high ball project...I actually got the part where it was high!

A couple nights ago, I hung out with John Dickey - sup cool dude - it was great to talk to an awesome photographer -

Also - I sorta maybe might have an opportunity to get a summer internship at Yosemite - what do you guys think??? Its a bit hot to boulder in Yosemite during the summer though right?

I felt myself learning "new moves" - which doesnt happen that offen - that's right folks - the good 'ole "drop knee" - a new concept for me...its really awkward - and both have been my left knee - which is my ACL knee - not that it hurts or anything, but it doesn't have its original range of motion (I'd have to work out and stretch a new movement for it.)

New Years Bash

Yup - good ole new years at the rock ranch.....huge fire....lots of ...well....non-acoholic beverages -you know how it goes. The best part of the night was the roman candle fight - we all got 'em, lit 'em and then scattered - the rules were "not in the face" - though this one girl Hanna took one in the face - I don't envy her first degree burns on the side of her face - but I have to admit - it was pretty funny (and fun) - I got hit once in the thigh - got a nice singe mark in my prana jeans.

Just hanging out in the park today - do some rock climbing =) I'm psyched!