Multi-Pitch - whhhhhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaa?

August 25, 2008

Yesterday, Deniz and I took a well-earned rest day…what did we do you ask? Well, mostly a whole lot of nothing – it being Sunday, everything was freaking closed – annoying right? The plan was to go to this Bakery and hang out there all day – they had wireless internet there…closed…then we went to a Marriot downtown – totally open, but you had to PAY for wireless internet….sheesh…oh and we also tried a Star Bucks - $6 an hour for net….RIIIIIIIIGHT….never go to a Star Bucks again – we did sit down in the Star Bucks and did some computer work – then we finally found a lobby (the Shilo Inn) which had free internet, but no tables – so we just did some necessities and then head back to our campsite.

That previous night – we had a bit of trouble – mostly that all of the campgrounds were full....it was late, we were tired, so we finally just pulled our car up to one of the bouldering areas and drug our sleeping pads up and crashed – Once the screaming teenagers left (I guess it’s a popular hang out), we actually got some decent rest.

Today was a good day – we had a good night rest (albeit at $18.00 a night in the Little Cottonwood Camp site), but the site was really nice. (For 18 bucks a night, I was figuring we’d get massages – but whatever…)

I didn’t sleep SUPER well though, I kept having bad dreams (I read the Stephen King Book, ‘Regulators’, that day…)

Deniz cooked some really good Oatmeal – I’ve been trying to be Raw (uncooked food – mostly fruits) for all my meals but dinner, but she convinced me that Oatmeal was a good idea…

I made a quick sketch of my translation of the Mt Project guide for the Pentapitch climbing area – which is mostly multi-pitch trad and mixed routes. There were several other people there, with guides, so we didn’t have TOO much trouble finding the correct line. Though we didn’t do any routes in double digits, we did do a 5 pitch route – the Pentapitch – which we linked into 3 pitches – it was really good – three VERY clean pitches with some scrambling in-between. I let Deniz take the prized first pitch on lead first, but came back and did it later on lead to reach the “Sasquatch” belay – the route named for the naked space alien biomorphic creation in Canada was Extremely good – Balls to the wall (or in Deniz’s case Ovaries to the to wall) for most of the pitch – when they say 9+ - they mean it! It was really clean – and really techy the whole way.

If you’ve never climbed granite, just thing about a friction slab – the friction is good – and overall (on surface of a palm) more sticky that Cooper’s Rock – but individual crystals are slick – it sounds weird, but its sort of like a conglomerate of “glue” and “crystals.” Because it is glacier carved (or so I’m told), it tends to be slabby – and have perfect (by East Coast Standards, not Indian Creek) cracks – on slab – though some slab is steep – and sometimes there’s roofs…

Unfortunately, I left most of my nuts back in my tent at the red, but thankfully I brought a lot of balls…just kidding – the granite cracks are perfect candidates for the 1990s leader (no cams, nuts only.)

I’m dropping Deniz at the AP tomorrow – and then heading to Rifle – where I hope to climb at least a day – and also hopefully to hang out with Dave Pegg and then to Carbondale to hang out with the R&I guys.

If I were back out here with someone next summer, I’d LOVE to take them up the Pentapitch and Sasquatch – those two routes were probably the best and most memorable I did on the trip – (That’s right – better than the Indian Creek Routes – but Indian Creek is an area I’d climb at for a full month – Little Cottonwood – cool, but no so much a full month- maybe a few days.)

Oh – I forgot to mention – some stupid animal ate our lunches…we came back down ,both bagels gone – with crumbs and a chalk bag (the plastic one) with holes…whatever it was didn’t like the taste of chalk (I hope it poison the little…well nevermind)

It felt really good to read – I love reading – I totally banged out that book in a day and a half….I really need to either slow down or pick some bigger books…else I’ll be buying books with all my would be beer money at Miguel’s (Just kidding – I don’t really think I’ll drink all that much – not that I ever really did…)

I had one momentary lapse of fear – on the horrid talus hike out – I jumped down, and stuck my face RIGHT INTO A paper wasp nest – one of them swarmed me a little, but I just remained calm and walked away – no stings…I’ve found that works well – if you just remain calm, they’ll leave you alone – I think they can sense your panic…and it makes them go after you…

My feet are really dirty – as soon as the sun goes down, the cloths are coming off and I’m going in the river…

American Fork - Limestone

23 August......

Well. I guess its Saturday – at least that’s what my calendar says….we climbed yesterday at an area called American Fork – the Membrane Wall – I guess the Membrane wall is equivalent to Bubba City or Summersville Lake at the New River Gorge – uber popular – which means uber polished, but the climbing was great none the less.

The approach was super short - maybe 100 yards, but we had to cross this icy ragging creek...I did it once with just the climbing stuff - thankfully the rocks were really sticky - and sharp...even though the fast water came up to my thighs - it was high probability, so I went back for the camera. It actually burned it was so cold, but it felt great...especially at the end of the day.

I’m really starting to feel the effects of a long trip without much substantial rest – I picked and chose my pitches yesterday – only doing 4, 3 of which were classic and the 4^th was a meager “OK”

We did meet a group from Park City who’s winter job was to dynamite for avalanches – pretty cool huh? They had an Avalanche puppy with them too!

In-between pitches - Deniz and I took what felt like a two hour power nap....me on the rope - her on our packs...

We’re staying with Tony – who we met at Maple – He lives on mountain and from his back porch – you can see a ?600 foot alpine route.

I think today we’re going to climb with Tony today at American Fork – and then venture north to SLC – Sunday is a planned rest day (hello public library) – and our final day will likely be at Little Cotton Wood – a Multi-Pitch Trad day – before I drop Deniz at the AP and start heading East.

Did I mention how much my body hurts? All is good though – because I feel like I’m really starting to get in shape/skinny – I’ve been eating a good bit of fruit – and hope to eat more once its just me again (Deniz really really like to eat well!)

The photos are – one of the best limestone routes I’ve ever done (not that I’ve done many) – License to Thrill (5.11c)

Maple...

21 August

Maple Canyon was cool – definitely not the best crag in the world – but not bad – at least it was nice on the hands. Though everything else really hurt…the first day – we climbed at a wall reminiscent of the red – lots of big holds – consistently steep – bouldery cruxes. I shot two photo sequences here – as well as did a 3 burn read point of a 7a+ (pretty pathetic?)

SOP for me is to climb until I’ve beaten the snot out of myself…and it was no different this day – my two final routes (back to back) were ROUGH…I totally felt like I was going to blow it the whole way – my foot work went into the can…and I just hauled myself on slightly steeper than vertical jugs…

One thing about Maple – the bolts jobs tend to be well……lets just put it this way – you can reach the first bolt from the ground and if you blow it on your way to the second – you’re gonna biff it hard….

Our second day of climbing was spent at Box Canyon – which is definitely the most popular crag in the Canyon – at least, of course, until the new guide comes out…we “warmed up” in the sun – which was a bad idea – on a 10a – which I barely RPed and then an 11a – which took me 3 burns to send (the first burn, I figured out all the moves, the second burn I pumped out a few moves before the anchors and the third burn – I just barely managed.)

Things smoothed out, however, once we got into the canyon – and more specifically into the shade – the flies in the sun truly suck…and as many as I could kill – twice as man continued to buzz me…but that all changed once we made it into the canyon…

We did two moderates, both of which were quite good – then I decided to work a 7a…I was pretty hosed, so I just did it bolt to bolt – hanging the draws. I didn’t even try the well-defined crux because I knew I only had one shot at it….so I clipped through and did it to the anchors.

There was this girl there….and she was nice…..and I asked her – “Do you clip the bolt after the crux or skip it?”

She goes, “Well, I don’t remember, its been a while, but I think when it was at my level, I hung a long draw”…..Thanks sweetheart…..I got some 12as at the New for you to do….Being 3 on, 1 off, 3 on, 1 off and at the end of long and hard Day 2 at Maple – it was safe to say that I stuck the crux, but chickened out skipping the bolt and didn’t RP it…

I did one more “Coupe De Grace” or whatever burn on one of routes we had previously done…which I managed to score by the skin of my teeth – a good finish to a long hard day and also a good finish to my trip at Maple.

We’re now in the Provo City Library – not as nice as the Moab Library – (and net freaking cost $1.00), but whatever…the plan is to do American Fork tomorrow and the following day – and then rest – and then do our last day of Trad climbing at Little Cottonwood before I drop Deniz at the AP and start my venture back East…

Oh and I paid $8.50 for a shower at Flying Js….what a rip huh???? #$)(#UU#$

I managed to read a whole 350 page book in two days - we stopped at the used book store in Moab and I picked up - "Misery" by Stephen King - definitely a goody! I love reading - I better not start anymore books - poor Deniz....

Indian Creek

17 August 2008

I kept waking up every 20 minutes or so – because the alarm in the hotel didn’t work and we were meeting Amanda in Moab at 7am – which meant we had to get up at 6 – which we did – Deniz and I were definitely a big groggy…

We met Amanda in a gas station parking lot (a little sketch huh?) and car pooled with her to Indian Creek – WOAH! That place is amazing – She said that it has been rather cool for this time of the year, but we still stuck to the shade – We warmed up and then did a couple 5.10s – which were SUPER amazing…the rock there is definitely soft – like if you wedge a cam – you can just “tractor” it out like wiggle it back and forth until you wear the rock out…

But the nice part about it being soft is that its really smooth – I have a few scars on my hands, but its from sliding while in a crack…

We only did 4 routes – but man – after 3 days on….Mill Creek ruined my crimpers, bouldering on sharp desert sandstone ruined my skin – and Indian Creek just worked everything else..the last route, I fell on once because I missed a key foot (it was this 5.10 off-width – with a twin right facing flake) – the second fall was just a total body failure…I just crapped out…I managed to grovel my way to the anchors…and grovel it was – I feel like I could get it next go – with like a week to recover….

We're spending the night with Amanda tonight - taking a rest day tomorrow and driving back to Maple Canyon. (with a stop at Joe's Valley to be tourists...)

Mill Creek, Bouldering and the Wedding

15 August 2008

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Have you ever heard of Mill Creek? Probably – there’s video of Dean Potter and Steph Davis soloing some stuff there - ITS RAD! Sandstone – it totally reminded me of the NRG – same texture, more features – lots of patina. I pretty much got owned there….I did managed to onsite an 11b slab – which felt a little rough for the grade – and I don’t think I ever screwed up the sequence….

I photographed this one dude on a really good looking 8a too – I’m pretty psyched with the shots =)

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16 August 2008

Friday night – we had a bachelor(ette) party out in the desert. We definitely got lost looking for the place – well – we were doing great until we were “looking for a bunch of cars beneath the one tower.” Party was good – I DEFINITELY stepped out of the box and got a little rowdy with my drink selected – I had THREE non-diet sodas…yah, it was nuts.

We woke up Saturday morning fairly early and went out bouldering in the desert – Did I mention we were staying at a “ranch” sorta motel? It was definitely nice to have a real bed and shower. – The water was terrible though – they only had well water (and it was out in the middle of no-where – no cell phone, but internet…)

Anyways – we went bouldering in this “secret” area – which really isn’t all that secret – you can totally see it from the road – but I just got THRASHED – Skin was definitely low to begin with…I was hosed Tommy…I was hosed.

The wedding was very nice – it was in the desert – on a balcony – behind the “inn” – there was a lot of rad dancing at the reception – good food and the whole shazaz…

Deniz managed to hook us up with a climbing partner at Indian Creek for the next day – so we went to bed late – with the intentions of waking up early…

Maple Canyon

When they say Maple is Cobbles...they're not kidding....its lots and lots and lots of cobbles.

The canyon is really surreal - there are tones of spires and lots of cliff - though most of it - just isn't climbable, or more so something that you would want to climb but - then - there is so much of it - that there is just an incredible amount of climbing none the less!

Its really trippy...

We arrived LATE Tuesday night - all the sites we saw were taken so we kept driving until we found one - after a quick tent set-up we hit it..the next morning - we drove down to hit the Bridge/Maple Canyon climbing area (we had the Dr. Topo guide - which is OK) -

Between the two of us - we did about 23 pitches....and with me doing 12 and her doing 11...all onsite - it took a little while to get used to the cobbles - and the 6700 ft, but really - I think I got it down....I cannot wait to get back and start to project stuff...

Being 3 days in a row - and having done so many pitches (I got a full - NICE bail draw too) - I crahsed HARD weds night...we slept in Thursday and drove to Moab - where I am now - the Moab public library. - The drive on the way was LONG - but fun - very desolate - but with lots of surreal landscapes.

We stopped at this one "exit" and checked out this sandstone boulder - SUPER cool and definitely climbable - but it was WAY too hot to do now....we took some shots though...

We're in Moab now - the plan is to climb tomorrow morning - and then Christina's wedding is tomorrow night - at Sunset =).

It's really nice here in Moab - but it has that "tourist" town feel to it....of course - because it is a tourist town - and its offseason - because its REALLY hot...

The High Unintas

After a slow start - Malcolm, Chad, and I headed up to the Unitas for a day trip - it was totally rad! The climbing was OK - but the rock was cool - and they don't call it "high" for nothing - we were over 10,000 feet and I was definitely feeling it!

I managed to do some moderates and an mid 11 - but crapped out pretty early - falling and bonking hard on another 11b...

The plan was to pick up Deniz at the SLC AP at 6:20 which meant I had to leave at 4:45....so I figured I'd run ahead and leave a little early...

On this trip - I am really starting to learn the value and wisdom of patience - I definitely got lost on the way out (though I got some nice photos) - Malcolm beat me to the vehicles - even though I took the head start....alas - I picked up Deniz at the AP around 7pm and we drove to Maple...

The OR Show

I typed this - but forgot to pose it - 8 August 2008

Today was pretty rad – it was the first day of the Outdoor Retail (OR) show. I started the morning early “again” at 5:30 – I drove over and took another dip in the pool/cleaning courtesy of Comfort Inn. It felt good to clean the body some – I still had salt in my hair from my “dip” a few days ago.

I ran around the OR show and met several photo editors – which was cool. That was pretty much my day – running around – talking to people – hanging out and so forth.

Toward the end of the day – I ran into an old friend Jamie Fields – from Morgantown – I was like WOAH! Coool…..so after chatting with her for a bit – she offered me a place to stay – which was great. We’re planning on climbing tomorrow morning – then I need to head off to the OR show to shoot the bouldering comp finals.

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11 August 2008

Its been a few days since I've posted...maybe more - its been pretty busy here - running around at the OR show - trying to sell myself as a photographer. All the photo editors seemed to be pretty nice.

Saturday morning I climbed on granite - for what felt like the first time (it was my excuse) it really took a lot of getting used to....it seems though, that the Pontas were made for granite - they worked GREAT.

I shot photos at the OR bouldering comp finals Sat night - and managed to score myself a VIP pass to the after party - not that I drank anyway - but I went for a while to be social...

Here are some pics from the Comp:

http://www.brayackmedia.com/or_finals/

Sunday was a lazy day - I was BEAT from climbing (the hike into Little Cotton Wood was aweful), and being on my feet in the hot sun for 6 hours shooting the bouldering comp sucked too....so I pretty much slept and hung out all day.

This morning, I slept in - then went to the OR show to pick up my free rope, chalk, chalk bag and Mad Rock shoes (well, I didn't get them, I still need to find a dealer and try them on) - not bad...

Then I went bouldering - man I sucked big time - the altitude and the well...blah blah blah, I just sucked. It was a really nice area though - best I've ever been to - and I'll definitely come back for it - maybe next summer for the OR show....

Tomorrow, I'm hoping to meet Malcolm Daily for a day trip to the place called the Unintas or something like that....

Oh and I paid over $4.00 for gas #$#%! Darnit!

Anyways - life is good...picking up Deniz at the AP tomorrow - and then off to Maple Canyon and then Christina's Wedding - and then who knows!

-Danno

Some more Pics...

Another Sunset Sky in Wyoming

A self portrait eating mangos in Nebraska

Some Pics...

Cornfield of Nebraska (I climbed on top of a shelter to get the shot.)

A self portrait bouldering at Vedauwoo

A "balanced" rock at Vedauwoo

The forest at Vedauwoo

The Sunset Sky in Wyoming

Feeling Good...and Healthy....

I’m really starting to feel good – skinny too – but that’s probably just because I haven’t been eating so much – and I’ve been eating healthy – mostly fresh fruit – I had cooked rice for dinner last night – which I cooked in a Wyoming – at this electrically independent rest area – totally all solar! Kinda cool – of course, it was so incredibly windy – that I had to keep a hand on the stove so it wouldn’t blow away.

Just a note on the photos – I don’t have time to clean up the dust specs on the lens (these are common when shooting past F8)

Moving right along...

Well, I came to realize that the bouldering at Veadauwoo sucks – the scenery was great – the climate was nice – but the rock, just not so good…mainly too sharp and not enough features.

So I left Wednesday, the 6^th after a short bouldering session. I took a look at my back tires and decided that I didn’t want to die on the highway – so I wandered around downtown Laramie (WY) – first I tried Wal-Mart – they had a 3.5 hour wait – I found another place which was too expensive and finally found another – after waiting about an hour and a half and $380 later – I had four new tires and was on my way.

The drive across WY was MUCH nicer than Nebraska – not so boring – though really desolate. I thought I was golden – not one mile into WY, but there was mountains – with lots of ROCK! I was like – WOAH…of course, it was just a bluff – most of the drive across WY was high plains –mostly desert – I even saw a tumble weed.

I lucked out – just as the sun set – I came across a close bunch of Wind Mills – there are many, many windmills field out here – it made me think of the Matrix. Well – it was just a perfect photo opportunity. I wanted to stop – but there wasn’t anywhere good – but then VOILA – a truck parking area! It was SOOOOOOOOOOOO incredibly windy – you wouldn’t even believe.

To get a good angle, I stood on top of my car – though I kept almost getting blown off!

I drove til about 930, entered Utah and slept at this nice rest area until morning. I drove into a small mountain town to hit a Wal-Mart – but it wasn’t open until 7! Doh…so I cooked breakfast (Oatmeal) in the parking lot.

Now, I’m in a Flying J’s in Salt Lake City – I went into Wal-Mart this morning and put my contacts in - got some directions to the Salt Lake (The OR show isn’t until tomorrow – so I need to blow at least a day) – I haven’t showered in a few days – so I’m hoping to just jump into the Salt Lake.

Update - jumping into the lake was a bad idea - all the cuts I got from Vedauwoo now burn - along with my eyes...great...

But I'm scoring internet at a hotel - and they have a pool so Ill just jump in later...

SLOW DOWN

One thing that I’m learning is standard label slapped on Americans by the rest of the world – to SLOW THE HECK DOWN. Just chill…I don’t need to rush to and from everything. Drive slow – save lots of $$ on gas + save the environment.

Serious – I got 515 miles on 10.8 gallons of gas…do the math…

I marathoned last night – I stopped driving at about 930 – and slept no so well (it was hot and stuffy) in the front seat of my car for about 7 hours – I woke up at least half a dozen times – though it was good enough….I was ready to roll at 2:40…and that I did. I drove all way through Lincoln, NE, stopping at Walmart to buy a pair of shorts, a nice dress shirt for the wedding, and SOME FRUIT – Ash – you’d be SUPER proud of me – I got 2 Mangos, 3 bananas, a avocado, and something else (fruit) but I forget.

Nebraska sucks….yah – corn field after corn field after corn field…….its not too terrible I guess……I did take another hour nap at 630 which was GREAT – I took the crash pad out of the car and put the drivers seat back – it was nice and cool and I slept great!

Also, for the first time – I successfully ate a Mango all on my own…well ok maybe not, but I had the right idea – I cut it 3 times (properly) and in the middle of the 4^th cut (smallest) – I totally dropped the core on the nasty dirty ground….but I did managed to eat most of it, but I was bummed I didn’t get to suck on the core!

Anyways – I’m at a gas station now – no power outlet – so I gotta roll – I’ll post this the next Panera I find!

Quick Note

I got over 500 miles on a tank of gas - setting cruise control to 60 is great! I've never filled my tank up more than 11.5 gallons...so we're looking PRETTY proud here.....if you want to save on gas on long trips and you have lots of time - cruise control at 60 rocks!

Just a quick break in Kansas City...its 7:50 - probably leave here at 8 - 3 hours to Omaha - then sleeeep!

I'll probably wake up at like 3 am and then drive more and more until I get to the bouder field...

On the road...

Its been a long drive....I left Nashville at 8:15 am and have driven west. I'm currently in a "Panera" in St. Louis; however, in St. Louis, Panera isn't called "Panera", its the St. Louis Bread Company...but same thing...

One thing I learned about being on the road for a while is you start to think about things. This weekend, I felt homesick - but then - I thought about where exactly was my home? When growing up - you become rooted to your "house" - but then you go to college - move around, and become less attached - you work some - you move 5 times in 2 years....You really smear the concept of a physical home...so I felt homesick - but where is home?

Around 12noon - I got tired - so I stopped at a rest area somewhere around the IL/MO border...I took a 30 minute power nap - which ended abruptly - I musta had a weird dream and woke up really fast, though I felt revitalized - I did infact have a dream, so maybe I made it into REM?

I have a pretty long haul to Vedauwoo - but I'm going to make it as far as I can today - at least Kansas city - which is about 4 hours from here - and its like 330....I'm hoping to boulder at Vedauwoo Weds and Thurs - and maybe Friday morning - then finish the 3 hour drive to SLC (or maybe its more - not sure...)

A day in the life...

So far, it hasn't felt like I've been homeless - A day of climbing and two days hanging out with my friend Ashley in Nashville - we've spending the days eating Raw food - shooting lifestyle and yoga photos - swimming...life is hard.

I'm hitting the road REALLY soon here - my destination is Kansas City - about 10 hours - today is going to be a long driving day - I want to make it to Vedauwoo ASAP because that is my next "fun" destination - where I'll be climbing...

If I can make it the whole way today - bless my heart - but I think I'll be stopping for lunch in St. Louis and probably sleeping in my car - hopefully after I pass through Kansas City...

First Days Off....

I have to admit, leaving my home was really difficult - its not so much the place, but the people who I will miss. It really still hasn't completely dawned on me - it just feels like another climbing trip....

But I have my entire life in my tent at the Red - and my key chain only has one key - my car...

Not having a job is a bit scary - and I find myself a lot more hesitant with my purchasing power - normally I wouldn't think twice about a diet soda on a driving trip...but then - $2...that's like 1/3 a bag or rice - which I can live off of for like a month (or more?) - That was suppose to be a "Into the Wild" joke...

I really sort of got bored with the New River Gorge - sure there is probably another 2 or 3 years worth of development at the Meadow - but really - I just feel like I ran out of routes to do (Its not that I'm strong - its just I ran out of routes that I think I could EVER be strong enough to do...)

Though - there are a few routes that I would like to come back to - once I hopefully get stronger - though I think the climbing full time - thing may help out...

I left Thursday right after work for KY - It was definitely tough to be in a new area and I was definitely feeling home-sick, though it was really refreshing to run into friends at hte Red. I spent the next Day climbing with Max Marlowe, John Michael, and Tim Hinck at the Motherload.

I really felt pathetic - gaining about 8lbs definitely tolled on my body - that as well as the sweltering heat...

Friday night - with the help of caffeine and sugar, I arrived in Nashville to hang out with my homegirl - Ashley "Badash" Hamilton.

Saturday - we went to "Whole Foods" to meet with her "Raw" food group. They were all totally rad - though being a person who cooks food - I felt just a tad bit out of place!

We spent Saturday taking photos - mostly Ashley's Senior photos - but also some lifestyle shots for one of her sponsors Friksn.

Today - we are hoping to shoot some "Yoga" shots for Friksn as well - and do some family portrats. Then, tomorrow morning - I'm off again. My destination is Vedauwoo, WY, which is near the town of Cheyenne (sort of) - I'm not sure if I'm going to like it there - but its about 6 hours away from Salt Lake City - where I need to be Friday for the OR show.

I haven't figured out where I'm going to be staying in Salt Lake City - but if worse comes to worse - I'll just sleep in my car (I'm not going to pay for lodging.)

www.brayackmedia.com