Another Rest Day

I gave up my park passes today - I just wanted to be an introvert - hang out in the coffee shop - though it worked out that I ran into a bunch of people from the Rock Ranch =). Just hanging out - working on Laura's wedding - watching my favorite TV show Dexter, (Ok maybe I like Bones better.)

I brought in my Vegas Bouldering guide - getting
pretty psyched to check that place out with Elodie.

I had a good day yesterday - cleaned up on a project - though a low grade was pretty hard for me....but whatever - I like it here.

Quick Hit

Just sitting outside the park - its nice today - getting ready to head in....My back is GREAT today - it hurt a little this morning - but I ran a 5k and now I feel really good (well my legs are sore) - gonna head into the park though stay low (So I don't have to climb the chains) - gonna try a couple of my easier projects today ( well at least grade wise - I swear the on problem - grade equivalent to Cutting Edge at the Mills feels more like the burning zone grade equiv....)

Not a Bad day...

My back hurt in the morning - but I climbed anyway - taking it easy - I did a roof problem - and it cracked three times - each time, it was like someone was cutting a cord of pain - it was great! I actually tried a problem that was my style - and crushed it - it was the grade equivalent of Birthday Boulder at the Mills...I swear - it felt just as hard as the V2 Warm-Up - but that's how Hueco is...the higher the grade, the easier it is for the grade...so yah - I'd hate to be someone climbing at V0-V3 - You're screwed!

Nicole Hanson, a Friksn athlete rolled in last night - she's here for a week or two - not sure - gonna try and get out some with her and take pics - though the park has been ridiculously busy - I'm SUPER glad I have North Mountain passes....

It was cold again this morning - My water was frozen solid - I was warm of course, I have two sleeping bags - a synthetic and a down - I keep the down on the inside (My grandma bought me that down sleeping bag several years ago - Thanks GMA!)

I've been working on an article - not sure if it'll go - but I think it will - its about full time climbers and their "rigs" like - their van's/campers and how they have them set-up - MAN - I really want to drop 40K and get one myself! I could totally run a video production out of one...most of them are 100 percent solar powered...though I think running a Quad Core Mac might tax the solar panels a bit yah? =)

I ran into a group from Colorado - THEY WERE CRUSHING - Here is a pic of Flannery Nemirow on Free Willey - a crimpy steep V9/V10.

Just hanging out in the coffee shop - today is my day out of the park....gonna try and finish up Laura's wedding, My photo submission for the NRG Guidebook, and another article I'm working on ...oh and I still need to make an album for the RRG...and my wedding stuff....

Ahhh....a beautiful day...

-Danno

PS thanks for the update on Flannery's name - I misread her name on the model release

Snow Sucks....especially in the desert

27 December

I hurt my back – it really sucks…..I went into town and worked on photos for about 7 hours today – hung out at this nice coffee shop that kept me in warm Chai the whole time…I’m heading into the park tomorrow – to climb –I don’t know how hard I’ll be able to climb with my back hurting – but I’m out of the park the next day – so I’ll rest then for sure…

28 December

Still hurts –but not so bad – I hate snow – it sucks – it snowed here….the desert is such a dichotomy sometimes…its too cold to be outside – so this one is going to be short…

Back Hurt today...

I had a somewhat disappointing day - totally got my butt kicked - ok maybe not - I managed to do the first move on one of my projects - which I hadn't been able to do before - now if I can stick the 3rd move - I think I can do it - but its underclings in a roof..and you know how I am with those (BAD)...

My back started hurting though - so I quit...it still hurts...I drove into town - watched a couple episodes of "House" - put together some photos for Wolverine for the NRG guidebook...you know - fun stuff...



Here's a shot I had someone shoot of me on one of my projects...and a foosball shot of Jimmy Webb

-Danno

Isn't it Boxing Day or something?

25 December

I can’t believe I’ve only been here for a week – it seems like its been a lifetime – I’m really starting to settle in here….today was/is a good rest day – just pretty much sitting around – working on photos – watching climbing videos – (Dosage IV) – I cleaned my camera and charged everything –

I’m hoping to put in a good go on my project(s) tomorrow – the one feels like I can do it – I’ve done all the moves – I just need to link them – I’m really bad at underclings and roofs – and the problem is underclings – in – a – roof….but whatever right?

It feels so good to be this trashed – I’m really tired too – I think that I’m gonna take another nap….yah good idea!

26 December

Woah – I had some crazy dreams last night – cool ones though – actually woke up to my cell phone alarm this morning – I wanted to get into the park early to get some work done on the intraweb. I picked up Tim last night (Hink or something – I don’t want to spell it wrong) – He and John Michael are climbing today and I’m hoping to get some shots of JM on Free Willey – I wish they’d get here soon while its cloudy – it’s a nice – cool, but not too cold overcast morning.

I’ve been running a 5k every morning except this morning – I crapped out at the 5 minutes out mark – so I only ran 10 minutes – Tomorrow is my rest (shoot pics) day – so I’ll probably try to do another 5k – Once my morning 5ks start getting easier, I’ll start bumping them up.

For Breakfast this morning – I had an orange and oatmeal (with Cinnamon) – good stuff for sure. I sorta ran out of cereal and I’m almost out of soy milk – I need to go shopping…..again……well – I found a coffee shop in town that has free net if you buy something – so I’ll probably spend the afternoon/evening there and food shop as well.

It hurts to life my arms over my head...

24 December

Sorry – no pics today – I just bouldered – didn’t even bring the camera =). I took some photos though – with someone else’s camera…Today was for working projects on my list – one of my projects – a steep roof – I managed to do all the moves on it – I got it pretty well dialed…all I need to do is put it together – I think I can do it maybe next week – we shall see though…and I worked another one of my projects – I’m still not strong enough to do the hard start on it – though I’m getting stronger on it – I did some pull ups from the start hold (You have to pull on and throw) – I can do all the rest of the moves on it though – they’re not easy – and its going to be hard – but I can do them all…

Tomorrow is Christmas Day ! Yah! Hueco yah! I’m missing my family though…I’m taking a rest day – though I signed up for a tour with Jimmy Webb – I may give up my spot if John Michael wants on it – but I was planning on taking photos…ok the shower is open – time for some warm water.

25 December

Ah yah - christmas day - the first I've spent away from family - I'm in the park now - I can't get in - well I probably could wait - but I'm not going to - I'm trashed...just came in the park to post my blog - check emails - etc. gonna spend the day working on photos - hopefully finish up Laura's wedding - and put together a slideshow for the New Years Bash at the Rock Ranch.

It was warm again last night - which was cool.

So daily life at the Rock Ranch - its definitely different from Miguel's no wireless internet - so ppl have to like actually interact. Last night was movie night - we watched "Blood Diamonds" which was quite exquisit. Then we played Foosball - yah that's right - there's this tattered foosball table there - though its a good table from what people say - and we play i t - a lot - I'm pretty bad at it - but I think that I'm getting better - I can at least hold my own sometimes....well ok maybe not.

I may have to just shoot pics tomorrow - take two rest days - I am PRETTY hosed...

Twas the night before Christmas...

24 December

Another warm night – thank God…and a good night’s rest – and I kept having cool dreams too – a sign that I’m starting to settle in here for the long haul. I remember one dream in particular, it was one of those “being chased” dreams – I love those – they’re the best =) So much fun! Though I sorta cheated I think…you know – when you realize that you’re dreaming and change things so they work out for you…oh well….

I ran again this morning – my daily 5k – Hopefully I can lose some weight and CRUSH here…it felt easy today too – maybe tomorrow I’ll bump it up some – it’s a 25 minute loop for me from the campground – the longer loop – the shorter loop is 15 minutes – so maybe I’ll do a 40 minute loop tomorrow if I’m feeling it. I don’t have park passes for tomorrow – though I did put my name down for a volunteer tour – I’m resting though – so I’ll likely just been shooting pics – I may just give up my slot so someone else can climb too…

I broke a lens yesterday – the zoom ring on it just died – it was my 28-70mm F2.8…grumble…I mean – I can cover on the fixed 35 and fixed 50 no problem + I can probably get it fixed, but funds right now are SUPER low…what I really oughta do is invest in the 24-70mm F2.8 – the newer generation lens…it sucks – I’m pretty hard on my stuff – but then I guess that what happens when you’re a climbing photographer….my dead list is – a SB-600, a SB-800, a 18-55 F3.5-5.6 and a 28-70mm F2.8.

I’m really pinching the pennies to invest in a video camera – and start going that route.

Here are a couple photos from yesterday.

It hurts to hold my hands over my head.

23 December

Yesterday was a great day – the temps were cool, but nice in the sun – conditions were great! John Michael and I rolled up to the park around 9pm – I had passes, but he was 15 people deep in the waiting list – just as I finished an email – the park staff sounded that there were two slots left in a volunteer tour to East Mountain – We jumped at the opportunity and spent the day with two cool tour guides – Michael and his GF Stephanie.

Man – what a cool place – lots of good problems – we got to see Slash Face (Ashley – if you don’t know that problem – shame on you!) John Michael basically crushed – sending from V0 through V8 (don’t know if he did a V3?)

Lighting was horrible – actually worse than that – but I made do with what I had.

So today – I went into the park for about 5 hours – hung out with Matt and Charlotte again – Charlotte was taking a rest day – so I handed her my camera and gave her a few pointers – and then it got WINDY – it was crazy – like dust storm nasty crazy! I bailed at lunch time – headed back to the ranch – made some rice with beans – and then found Kristoph’s – a coffee shop in El Paso that has free, unrestricted internet (well – I can’t FTP, but other than that – I’m doing great)

On the drive here – I was barraged by a “herd” of tumble weeds – the one was BIG too – it was like maybe 3 feet in diameter – thankfully they all just bounced off the front of the Civic – but for a moment there – I was like….oh…….no……!

It was warm last night for the first time in forever – It was nice – I crawled out of the two sleeping bags and just used my sheet.

I’m sooooooooooooooooo incredibly pumped today – like it was hard to carry my photo gear around today – I was THAT pumped…I’m hoping to heal for tomorrow – but I dunno what’s gonna happen!

I ran again this morning – another 25 minutes – sufficient to say – I’m pretty beat up. It feels good though. Tomorrow I’m in the park again – bouldering – hopefully well rested and ready to CRUSH.

Mexico yah?

21 December

Today, I was waiting in line at Wal-Mart and it was a long line, so I started reading Cosmo – intrigued by the cover story – I flipped to see how to tell if “your man is ready for the long term commitment.” I checked – there were like five requirements – all of which I fit – like I’m financially responsible, I’m positive, I have my own “plan”, I’m willing to change for a woman (you know – become a boulderer or trad climber instead of a sport climber) – and one other one that I can’t remember. Women can apply in writing.

But seriously – today was a nice day – a rest day – and I didn’t have a park pass – at Hueco – you can only reserve 3 days in a row – then you need to take a day off – I spent the day wandering around in El Paso – I went to the dollar theatre – which is now the “two” dollar theatre. Then totally went to a duty free store – bought two bottles of tequila – walked into Mexico – and then immediately made a loop and walked back into the states – paid my 2 dollar duty – and voila.

I picked up John-Michael at the airport, we went into the park – wandered around a bit.
Showed him some of the classics – I think he’s SUPER psyched =) – I am too – I’ve been feeling really weak – my triceps are still soar from the first day on King Cobra (a particular boulder problem) – but then I guess I’m just getting stronger at Compression problems – a drastic contrast from climbing at the Red River Gorge.

22 December

Its 6am – and I couldn’t sleep any longer – I went into the ranch and unfortunately, there was someone sleeping in there…unfortunately for them – cause I didn’t realize until I was half way through breakfast – well – I have the lights back off now and am typing in the dark – and working on photos.

The desert has banging sunsets – here’s one that I caught while driving back from town – Totally jumped out of my car – ran into the sand some to get most of the power lines out of the shot and voila.




I’m hoping to notice a jump in my bouldering strength here soon – I’ve been getting my butt kicked – though I’ve also been picking problems which aren’t my style at all – I went running yesterday morning as well – only 15 minutes which is a bit pathetic for me – but I tend to have a lot of down time in the morning waiting for the sun to come up and the park to open – so I think that I’m really going to try and run at least 20 minutes every morning – that’ll help with my weight – I’m maybe 5 lbs heavier than I was a month ago – and I was pretty darned skinny then….

Sarah Heath Siting! No joke....

I still feel like someone punched my in both arms – bouldering is soooooooooooooo much different than sport climbing at the red river gorge – especially the problems I’ve been picking – sloper compression problems – Yesterday was a rest day.

Totally a Sarah Heath siting! I hung out with her and her brother the first half of the day – checked out some new areas on North Mountain that I hadn’t seen before + took some pics.

The second half of the day, I hung out with my pal Matt and his wife Charlotte – just chilling – taking some pics – they were both pretty hosed by the time I ran into them.

I’m picking up John-Michael at the AP tomorrow – tomorrow which is my first day out of the park since I’ve been here – I have a bunch of life stuff to do – like – well, buy some bowls – I don’t have any bowls, so I haven’t been able to eat rice or oatmeal or anything like that – just been sticking to fruit, banana bread, and chocolate (that Ashley gave me.)

Hueco

17 December



I marathoned it – OK maybe not entirely – I stopped to sleep several times – for a few hours each time – and sleep was sound, but short. I left Nashville Tuesday morning – it seems the ice and snow was following me. I HATE snow….Ice storms were forecasted Monday night – and Tuesday morning for Nashville, though I didn’t hit any real ice until Little Rock – though it was nuts there. I passed a dozen or more accidents – the bridges were almost all completely frozen – It was definitely sketchy, though I just kept my whits and all went fine.



Arkansas was a new state for me – though I had been to Texas before – at Hueco 3 winters ago. It doesn’t seem that much has changed here….at the Hueco Rock Ranch.



I’m sooooooooooo psyched! My north mountain passes start tomorrow – though one problem – there’s no internet here…



19 December



I had my first day in the park (bouldering) yesterday – I ran around for about an hour the day before – I have a Year Pass – so I can get in for free…dude – I love this place, but it sure doesn’t love me !!



I guess 4 months at the Red River Gorge – which is sustained endurance probably wasn’t the best training for Hueco Bouldering – which is awkward slopers and a sequence of 2 or 3 really POWERful moves… It’s all good though – I got a long while here – before I head off to the Obed to help Zak Roper do the guidebook for there.



Speaking of Zak – he and his GF Katelyn stopped by here to see me for a couple days – It was great to see them again – and I totally didn’t expect it –



Last night was pretty cold – it gets really cold in the desert – and since I don’t have gigatent anymore – I only have my small two person tent (when they say two person – they really mean like 1) – I brought my cot though – my back has been hurt lately (though feeling better) – so I set up my cot outside next to my tent – I tried to just use my down quilt and blanket – but I just couldn’t get cozy enough…once I crawled into my sleeping bag, I was good though.



I ran into my buddy Matt and his wife Charlotte at North Mountain – took some pics of them as well on this problem – Speed Bump – at the New Meadow.



I’ve been doing well with my diet – this morning – It was Orange Juice and lets see – 2 bananas and counting (I’m gonna try and eat four)



Its rad here – though expensive – camping is $4.00 a night….and I don’t really have any income – so I’m really going to have to take it easy…



I have passes today, but am going to take a break – take photos, even though I don’t feel like I need it – but my schedule is 3 days in the park, 1 day out of the park – so boulder a day, shoot a day, boulder a day – then rest.

Travel Map

I uploaded my travel map - I may be in Nasvhille a BIT longer - I don't know - we're suppose to get a bunch of nasty ice storms - I'd like to leave tomorrow morning - since Thursday is my first day for North Mountain passes at Hueco.

You know - it really feels like the snow and ice are following me =(

Funny thing - I was totally in a Panera in WV - and got talking with a random guy...told him about my lifestyle...well....he solemnly hands me a business card - goes "I work at a homeless shelter - if you ever need a warm place or meal - just call...."

A short 9

Seriously - I think I'm getting used to this driving thing - I left Greenville, NC and drove to Clarksburg, WV - 9 hours - through snow and it felt like nada....just hanging out at Panera, watching house - waiting to meet Laura at the rehearsal tonight - her wedding is tomorrow.

Driving through the mountains was a bit sketchy - there was a freezing rain last night; I got some rad pics - which I'll hopefully upload at a later date.

Sunday I leave for Hueco =)

Update - pics from coming through the mountains in Seneca!

LRC and Chattanooga

I really liked Chattanooga - I can really see myself living there in the future - the climbing is great, the people are cool, its a good town...if I can get enough photography work (and maybe videography work) - I can make it work?

I stayed with Brooke for the week in Chatty - it was great! =) I got a lot of work done, finished up a wedding - but mostly just climbed lots!

Saturday was the Stone Fort Triple Crown comp - I basically followed around the Friksn athletes and shot photos - mostly Nicole Hanson and Ashley Hamilton - though I did get some photos or other climbers - I'm currently holding most of those photos hoping to get some prints.

In Chatty - I totally finally shaved my scruffy beard - I really needed to - I was starting to look like a bum who lived in his tent...oh wait - nevermind =).....anyways - here are a few photos from the comp + the progression of my shaving.

Also - I took some glamour photos of Brooke - one of which is posted.

-Danno

Leeta or paraleacha?

Ok - that didn't make sense - but I didn't have tooo much time to thing - getting ready to head to Leeda for a "rest" day - I guess its this small area with lots of moderate sport climbs - I have this big hole in my finger from "Latin for Daggers" - which I got my butt kicked on at LRC.

Yesterday was nice and cool, but sunny day at LRC (Little Rock City aka Stone Fort) - which is actually a golf course - that has all these boulders in the woods next to it - you have to wake up early - since they only give out 35 passes a day (and register online) - Brooke myself and her BF Andrew spent 5 hours with a bunch of other peeps (The place filled up at 7am - I got up at 445 to register - which starts at 5am) -

I had a good day of bouldering - which suprised me - I was like - oh...well I guess I'm not such a pathetic boulderer after all - I finally sent my project - which is this V1 - I forget what its called, but its next to Mane Event...It took me maybe 8 goes...

OK time flies...and I still haven't fixed the brakes on my car - Its going to rain manana though - so perhaps I'll do it then...

A bit of rest and then some...

Some freaking awesome bouldering! I woke up this morning at 4:45 to register one of the covetted LRC passes this week - since its the Comp next weekend - everyone is trying to get in - I was the first person in - and seconds later - when I checked - 3 other people had registered - but not so fast....its definitely advantageous to wake up early to get in....and 445 wasn't so bad...

I'm almost done with wedding photos from the past wedding I did - just making the wedding CD - but today - bouldering - its beautiful out - sunny and mid 40s - a perfect day for LRC - hopefully I won't get my butt kicked =)

Chatty HO!

I've been in Chattanooga the past couple of days - just living it up! Its been raining the whole time - except of course - when Brooke and I went climbing at Foster Falls!

Foster Fall is sorta cool - small - its like a mini-Obed - and the Obed is like a mini- NRG.

I got my butt kicked on the warm-up - though after that - I felt STRONG - We got a Chattanooga start - that couple with realizing that we forgot a rope when we were 30 minutes away from Chatty - whoops!

It was sorta cold - but still sorta nice - I like it here in Chatty - I think that I could live here - The climbing is nice - its a good community - housing is fairly inexpensive - and I think I could probably make enough weddings here to live? Also - I'm hoping to get a video camera this spring and do a professional bouldering video for the area. At least that's the life plan =)

I love my life - it ROCKS!