Looks like we made....

Look how far we've come.... (to quote Sharyl Crow)

We're in Lexington - left Nashville this morning - we were going to do the Obed, but it was raining....

We're climbing at the Red tomorrow - then I'm heading to Charleston =)

Here's a photo from Red Rocks...

28 hours later...

I'm in Nasvhille - 28 hours of driving - stopping only for food, gas and rest rooms....and then there was sleep...

OKLAHOMA WHAT?????

So we drove about 900 miles from Jack's Canyon last night - and through this morning- stopping only for gas and bathroom breaks - we went through Albuquerque, Ummm - a bunch that I was sleeping through - and now we're in Oklahoma city in a Panera; The next stop is in Little Rock where I'm going to get my oil changed - then to Nashville to stay with Ashley tonight.

I had a good climbing day yesterday - which I will post tonight (probably)

My life savings....and gambling

While sitting there watching Elodie gamble, I got bored twice - two temporary lapses of judgment and put two dollars into the machines - 8 presses of the Max Bet button on that was that.....

Climbing at Red Rocks and Gambling (yay)

So its always bee a comfort that I can go (yet be to be prooven differently) anywhere and climb 5.11 sport...notorious for its "soft" grades - which I didn't think were all that soft - especially in the 5.10 range, Red Rocks was no different.

I wrote an email to Bob complaining about the "gym-like" feel at the Gallery - not that I was really complaining - I liked it in fact, but Bob said, "Dude once you go up the canyon a bit - that'll end REAL fast" and I realized he was right - I found exactly what i was looking for - going to the Gallery and had no reason to bitch/complain - As much I enjoy it... =)

A few things about Red Rocks...

1. I know - I know - its really really weird - but like people TOP ROPE.....I saw it - seriously - and not just off two draws - but 4 locking biners and two slings - (instead of girth hitching the rings) - totally odd...

2. The hike sucks....big time - up hill both ways...on sketchy rock - you fall - you're dead...

3. People carry like 10 biners and an ATC and corudellte while top roping a single pitch.

4. Everyone was extremely nice

5. The 5.10s are freaking hard for the grade...the 5.11s right on - and I hear the 12s are soft....I'll maybe try one today and get back to you...

6. Prostitution is legal (not in Vegas, but in NV) - we hung out last night browsing for proper Brothel Ettiquette.

Speaking of the Strip -

7. As a climber - I'm so used to seeing people incredibly fit...well - I guess I'm just not used to "normal" people but - MAN - many many many obese people....its scary

8. "The Strip" in Vegas represents everything that's wrong with the States and concentrates it all into once place....

So climbing today - driving to Flagstaff tomorrow, climbing at Jack's Canyon Sunday - Nashville monday, Obed Tuesday, RRG weds, Charleston thursday, Morgantown Friday/Sat, Pittsburgh Sunday....

Grand Canyon - CHECK

ok - so 25 bucks to get in - kinda cool......a really deep canyon - I hate to be a tourist - If i were to ever come back - it would be to hike it or something fun like that =) (or maybe to bolt it...)

It was a bit of a haul - Phoenix to the Grand Canyon to Las Vegas...stopping in Flagstaff - which is a SUPER rad little moutain town - it reminds me a lot of Morgantown (but better cough cough) ok maybe not...

We're now in Vegas; We went bouldering and videoing with Andy - also with whom we are staying - he's got this SWEET house in this private housingn community - he set up a tent in his living room that we're staying it totally rad!

We're going climbing today and tomorrow at Red Rocks - YAH!

Here is a canyon photo - the lighting was kinda crappy - oh well =)

OK - not yet - but SOON really....

So we stayed another day in Phoenix.....Thanks Megan - you're the coolest....

So here's whats going on in my life:

Today -

Drive to the Grand Canyon

Drive to Vegas

Tomorrow -

Video Andrew R bouldering at Red Rocks

Climb at Red Rocks

The next two days -

Climb at Red Rocks

Then - head East - stopping in Nasvhille, at the Obed, at the RRG, visiting my friends in the office, seeing Bill, doing engagement Photos - going home - going boudlering and videoing with Joel (and probably drink a few beers a long the way =) )

then who know!

I love my life =)

I'll blog about my Grand Canyon and Vegas destinations foo shizzle....stay posted!

From Hueco to Phoenix and Back Again to Vegas...

OK - so I'm back in Phoenix - Hueco...yes Hueco - I had a great time - events of which occured were the sending of several of my projects, one of the coolest birthdays in recent times - and hanging out with some of my East Coast Home Boys (and Ashley).

Yesterday - we went back to Jack's Canyon - as mentioned earlier - its basically an outdoor gym - very cool - high route density - shorter, gymnastic routes - throws, pockets - you name it.....

I managed to send 2 new 12s - and almost did a third, but crapped out - it was one of those days where I just beat the crap out of myself - as hard as I possibly could - and then crushed my beans/rice/ burritto..........

Today was a rest day - I mostly just zonked out - brain dead - I finish my book - Fountainhead - by Ayn Rand...watched some of my favorite tv shows on Hulu.

My tent crapped out on me - the fly ripper and the zipper died - all in like 2 days - it sucked =( - so I need to probably get a new tent in the not too distant future - anyone have one used that I can buy/borrow/steal???

So tomorrow - we're heading to Vegas - gonna drive for the day - Tuesday morning - I'm hoping to film Andrew, a Vegas Local on the Pearl and several other problems there.

Life is good.

I've attached a few Hueco photos for you'all....

-Danno

YAY Hueco!!

And since we're back at Hueco - we go back to the normal - no spraying...

OK - so I totally did my UBER project from my winter trip here - Totally not my style - Underclings in a roof.....I was super psyched! I didn't think I could do it - but I did - that was two days ago (my first day) - also - yesterday - I did another one of my projects - we went on a East Mountain Tour with Steph - who is btw - the coolest guide ever (though Mike comes in a close second)

I totally didn't think I was gonna do that problem either but yah!

Oh - so today is my birthday - I don't feel 27 - I feel more like 37 - but then I guess I have ten years worth of aches and pains to conjer before I turn 37...... =)

So we're taking a rest day today - I'm not used to two climbing days in a row - so I'm pretty beat up....probably gonna get an hour Massage today too =)

Life is hard fooshizzle (NOT!)

Blew a Tire....

Yup...blew a tire - 20 miles from the nearest tire place - both back tires - I can't believe they got so bad - I need to pay more attention to them...so yah 270 bucks in the hole UGH!

It was scary driving the last 20 miles - knowing the other one was about to go...it never did..thankfully.

WE'RE AT HUECO NOW!!!

Tour Tomorrow =)

Off to HUECO but first...

But first - we're going to stop at White Sands - its about ?7 hours to Hueco - 6 or so to White Sands and then 2 from there to Hueco - so its a bit out of the way but not much. We have Tours Sat,Sun, Weds,Thurs,Fri,Sat...and are going to try to walk on Friday, Monday and Tuesday...well - thats a lot of climbing at Hueco - I'm sure we'll be taking some rest days...fooshizzle..at least everyone but Ashley - she's crazy like that....stay posted...

Another Day at Queen's Creek...

Not TOO much to report on from Queen's Creek - I did a route - which wasn't in the guide onsite to warm up - we were thinking like maybe mid 5.10...did a repeat on a classic 5.10 called Pocket Puzzle - then tried this (what Megan said was 12a) 12b onsite....I was doing great - until I broke a hold and TOOK A HUGE Whiper.....it was really sharp - and painful - and HOT - really freaking hot - my feet were killing me by the time I finished - so after that one I called it a day.

Overheard (and seen) at the Crag...

I climbed at Queen's Creek again yesterday - I'll blog about this later today once I finish the photos....

OK so.....

1. "Yah Dude, I always carry 4 lockers and 6 ovals" - on a single pitch sport route at Queen's Creek...and yes - he had them on his harness to proove it - along with an ATC, Gri Gri, and Cordulette...

2. "Umm....yah - I don't mean to intrude guys, but its generally best when cleaning to lower off BOTH anchors...its not like any of those anchors are going to blow, but..still that's why there's two..." - Me...

Added some Pics

Added some photos from Elodie - check out my Queen's Creek and Jack's Canyon Blog Posts...

Do ppl actually read this?

I never really though anyone (except my grandma) actually read my blog - but some random person at Bishop was like OH YAH - I read your Blog like ALL THE TIME...I was like 0h cool =)

So post if you read it so know who you are! =)

-Danno

And then there was Rest....

So I've had 3 rest days in the past 5....took two rest days here in Phoenix - I did abs both days - push one of those days....then today - totally total rest - I basically worked on video all day - played my stupid little text based game - Dune - and went to the hot Tub.

Totally brought the wrong key with me - so I did what I've become accustomed to - just hopped the fence...no biggie =)

So what - its like an outdoor gym - and that's what I liked about it.

Jack's Canyon is at LEAST two hours from Phoenix - its sorta east and north of Flagstaff - at least East.....so this place is amazing - the concentration of short sport routes is ridiculous - and they're all short - did I mention they're short? Well - there's a lot of good moves packed into ALL of these routes - and basically - they're so close together that you just pick an empty section and just crush....

We did a bunch of routes - which I'm not going to list - except the best route - while climbing it - I was like WOW - this is one of the most aesthetic routes in the country - it was THAT good - of course - I missed a couple pockets and had to do this HUGE reach through - but whatever right? It was called: (looking at the guide now...) - Jack's in a Hole (5.11d) - quite good...

I could definitely spend a month here - living in a van and climbing - very very cool!

Queen's Creek - Sport Climbing in Arizona

OK - so we were trying to figure out where to go - so on Sat - we decided to hit up a "closer" crag - and that being the Volcanic sport climbing area - Queen's Creek - about an hour East of Phoenix.

Its actually pretty RAD - the location sucks a bit - since its right next to and overlooks a major highway - but I was down with that =) The climbing was QUITE good - very remiscent of the RRG - except in mini - small pockets - techy face climbing - mostly vertical or slightly less than vertical.

To quote Madonna, sport climbing for me - being pumped was "like a virgin, pumped for the very first time!" oh wait - that was really bad....but well - I got pumped - it was weird - I've never gone so long without sport climbing before - so I totally got pumped on EVEN the warm-ups =) It was funny though.

I have no idea about grades - since I've been bouldering so long - but basically - I was able to onsite all the 5.11s - some were harder than others - but I didn't really feel like I was going to fall at all.

Elodie and I are staying with her friend Megan - totally Rad chic - and Elodie and I have been taking turns cooking dinner -


Here was my tick list:

Pocket Party (5.10b) - Cold Shuts for bolts - I remember very distinctly that on the box of these - they say "not for human loads"...well whatever I guess....so this was a good route - Megan says it was "well traveled" - but I managed to break two holds a foot hold and a hand hold....I didn't fall of course...

The route right of Pocket Party (5.10-)? - Kinda cool - a little more techy, less pumpy. Not in the guide.

To rig for photos, I did what felt like the best route of the day:

Pocket Puzzle (5.10a) - Superb climbing - lots of jugs up a gently overhaning wall, which is unfortunately broken at 2/3rds height by a horizontal jug/semi-ledge...but whatever...very cool

Then I did:

The Soft Parade (5.11b) - which actually felt kinda soft for the grade - well I dunno - it was easy but whatever - two I guess cruxes - one techy crimpy section - and one "grab onto the sloper and pull down" section...kinda cool - good route - and once again - cold shuts for hangers...

next I did:

Casting Shadows (5.11b) - at first, I didn't realize that you actually climb the crack 5 feet left of the bolt line for most of the route - I did probably a V4 boulder problem before I looked over and saw the crack - after that - I was fairly pumped, but managed to do the rest of the route....

the last route of the day was:

Loc-tite (5.11d) - I think I actually clipped a few hangers on this one, but once again - cold shuts mostly...good techy climbing - a slabby/vertical face with good pockets the whole way up. You basically climb just right of a crack/corner system the whole way - if you climb the crack - its probably like 5.9...The crux was cool - I actually thought it was easier than Casting Shadows - but you get a couple good holds and stand up for a good drilled pocket - I was glad to have the same reach as the guy who did the route...

And that was our day =)

And from Phoenix???

Ok - so I drove from Bishop to Phoenix mostly the day before yesterday - listening to Harry Potter Book 7 - FYI - Here are a few MUSTS for living on the road or at least making long drives:

1. Audio Book - Pick something you've read - so you can day dream and miss some and not worry about it.

2. Continental Breakfasts - just walk right in the door (wearing nic(er)) clothes - smile at the person working behind the counter and then just walk right over.....eat your hearts content. Its better to do this at places that have multiple buildings...

3. Diet Soda with Caffeine - this will keep you awake but it kinda sucks so -

4. Keep your sleeping bag and pillow(s) (or even better a quilt) handy - so you can pull over at rest areas and sleep a few hours.

5. Driving at night is best - since there's no one on the road

6. Don't speed - its not worth it - just set cruise control to 5 MPH under the speed limit - save gas - save money - its a lot easier too - you don't have to pay as much attention.

7. Panera - mark out these on your google earth maps - so you can stop and do internet

8. Public Library - in the absense of Panera - these generally have internet - though often restricted use (no FTP etc) - but you can hang out in these all day without paying $$ whereas in Panera you tend to buy a bagel or soup.

9. Stop and Take Pictures - If you see something cool - freaking don't hesitate to stop - even turn around if you have to - trust me - its worth the 10 minutes + its a nice break from the monotonoy.

10. Talk on the Cell Phone - this is a great way to kill time - call all your friends and chat away... =)

Buttermilks ---- yes again...

So I went from exclusively climbing at the Table Lands to the Buttermilks - Its been a bit hot...

So I had a happy day at the Milks.. - that's for sure - after warming up on:

Sheephearder (V2) - WoAH - what a cool slab - and like 40 feet from the car =) - ok so its totally a slab problem - lots of balance - and a high ball - it gets a highball rating- but really, its pretty chill...lots of balance - you press up - move up, traverse right, and then climb up again - lots of climbing fooshizzle.

I did another Lap on Birthday Direct (V3) - this time - climbing it almost completely static - one dynamic foot move. I've gotten much stronger since I've come here...

Then I went to my project - Iron Man Travese (V4) and totally did it first go!!!

I went and tried:

Bowling Pin (V4) - so a jug broke on this one - there's now a bad crimp where the jug used to be - but the crimp is good enough and I don't think its "enough" harder to be V5 - this one is really good - techy moves up a slightly steep face - lots of different ways to do it...I tried it twice by myself in the morning - missing the pad both times - then ended up coming back later in the day and sending it =)

I tried and totally got my ass kicked on:


x Fly Boy (V6) steep face - good holds - all facing left - you traverse left using some balancy and crappy feet...then you get two left facing jugs, decent feet and FREAKING THROW... yah - I didn't even make it to the throw...

So we decided to drive over the the "Get Carter" boulder - pretty much a boulder all by itself down the road - you park right next to it. Its a cool boulder - it has a bunch of good problems including Seven Spanish Angels (V6) - lots of huge SLOPERS - very gym like - to a jump for a jug....kinda cool - I just finished uploading that video and will post it soon.

I did another problem several times - and also shot photos of Julia on it:

Sunshine Naked (V0) - kind of ambigious - but cool plates up the Get Carter Boulder.

we went back to the main area - and I did Bowling Pin as mentioned above - then went to the King Tut Boulder - WOAH DUDE! What a cool boulder!

I shot some pics of Julia on Milk the Milker and did 3 problems, 2 being amazing and 1 freaking awesome!!!

***King Tut (V3) - This one gets the FREAKING AWESOME - balancy slabby and techy - woah dude!!! A bit soft for the grade I'd say...

** Ay (V1) - techy - cool holds.

Howad Carter (V0) - SHARP! the only one of the three that I didn't onsite - infact - it took like 5 goes for this one!!! Maybe I was just hosed...

and that was it...

-Danno