Chatta-didn'trainthistime-anooga

The weather this weekend was spetacular - 50s and sunny - a stark contrast of my past 4 - yes 4 trips to Chattanooga. Last weekend, there was a foot of snow on the ground at HP40 - A FOOT! Seriously....

But this weekend was just perfect.

My skin was feeling pretty pathetic though - like the first problem felt like the end of the day...and toda - my fingers were really hurting me.

I started by repeating a bunch of things that I've already done - then I did a few new problems - with my general goal being doing some new V4s and V5s and find a good V6 or V7 to project....

I was really psyched to 3rd go (essentially a 2nd go from a foot bobble at the start 2nd go) Ghengis Kahn (V5) - I think the V4 to the left of it - Black Carpet was probably harder at first, then I figured out the sequence and did it twice - its really good.

I repeated Tri-Star (V4) and Dragon Lady (V4) both fairly easily - first go on Tri-star and like maybe 4th or 5th go on Dragon Lady (my feet kept slipping).

Then I started working Crack of Doom (V4) which I cannot believe use to be V6!!! Its basically a finger crack boulder problem - maybe 20 feet? tall - the crux is a ratly finger lock (or you can press out on bad sloper) - I got it pretty wired and did it several times. If it were on a trad route, I'd say it would probably go at 11b/c.

Its really good though! and the topout - is SCARY.

I ran into some cool cats yesterday and today - and got some photos (though I'll probably hold them and see if I can sell them)

I did this problem - Pocket Pool (V3) which I swear was harder than Crack of Doom! maybe it just didn't fit me - I don't know.

I'm going to head out again tomorrow morning early - tentatively shoot photos of Ashley Hamilton on Midway (V7).

I'm really trying to like not justify having a day job - but its such a sweet gig - its really hard to beat it - I get 3 day weekends every weekend, lots of vacation time.....

I was talking to my friend Bob on the phone and am thinking about maybe doing a 3 or 4 dayer at the gunks once that place is in season.

I have some good images but am going to hold them I think a bit...stay posted...

-Danno

I feel sooooo lazy!

Darn - it I feel so crappy - i haven't really gotten to climb outside in a really long time !! this winter is killing me - I'm trying to decide if i want to dive to Chattanooga this weekend again. I got snowed/rained out four times already but I just can't stand not bouldering!

Its either that or like drive up to Pittsburgh (Closest gym) to get some training in!!!!

.... ugh!

Climbers are Selfish....

I am - I'm totally selfish. Last night, my friend Bill and I were talking about the latest crag. If you follow my facebook, I've been calling it the "40" foot slab...that I'm going to grid bolt. Well - its starts with 40 feet of slab....

But Bill was like "Save some routes for me, I want to bolt some" and I was like "Well...I'll just have to make sure I get all the ones I want first =)"

Am I being selfish - of course I am - I got bored of doing routes at the New River Gorge proper - sending just about every route that I can do (I only climb like mid to easy 12) - so well....I got bored...so I started turning to the Meadow where the potential for new routes is incredible.

There are at least 3 more "crags" left out there almost completely untouched that are left out of the new guidebook - and another 2 crags which are "mostly developed, but not sent" and "half-way developed".

So I'll be focusing the next few seasons on establishing routes here.

Developing routes is a lot of freaking work and expensive - but I like punishment + I think it gets me into shape...anyways - stay posted....Once we finish up at the "High Density Feed Lot" and Sam gives me the go-ahead on the "Congo" we'll post those guides.

I'm sure with the New NRG book by Wolverine hitting the shelves presently, the masses will have a bunch to keep them busy.

WORD

Chatta-always raining-nooga

SO this makes 0/4 for me on Chattanooga....Armed with the new guide to HP40 - I was pretty psyched, though when we got there - there was about a foot of snow on the ground.

Total hose job...so we ended up climbing in the gym two days....

Getting a Wii?

So one of my friends put some pressure on me to get a Wii - yeah - they're only 200 bucks (and he's going to put in 100) - but that means I need to get a TV too - which is about 1000 and a TV stand...this is all fine and dandy - I really don't have that much time at home though......hmmm....

Life is full or hard decisions...like Nikon just released the 24mm F1.4 - SUPER sweet - not only a superb wedding lens, but climbing too.....no seriously - I'm really psyched about it - but its 2200....and the price won't drop. Ever....

Gooooooo Ipod

So I got a new Ipod this christmas - well Ipods are basically hard drives - and the thing with hard drives is that - if the drive is going to fail- its probably going to fail in the first few months - and if it doesn't, then it will probably last for 5 - 10 years (etc)

Well - My new Ipod crapped out on me - so I logged on to Apple and - they're sending me a brand new one - I didn't even have to pay shipping or anything - they gave me a slip - I went to a UPS and the UPS guy already knew I was coming - I just gave him my IPOD and that was it....

I wonder how fast the turn-around time will be.

Photo from the Apple Site....

A good idea......

Well - I had this brilliant Idea - I got this little self-powered portable hard drive for my laptop for my music..well....I got some Velcro stickers and just stuck the thing to the back of my laptop with Velcro - its awesome - it stays out of the way, stays connected, doesn't get jacked......wow....even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes huh?

I am getting really really psyched for HP40 this weekend. I didn't get to train yesterday - I ended up just playing video games all night - I'm justifying this by saying that I needed a rest day.....

HP40 Guide = = AWESOME!

I just go a copy of the HP-40 guide by GreenerGrass Publishing, written by Adam Henry. Its about time someone put out a guide to this place, but all the years of waiting has been worth it - they definitely did the place justice. Its full color - and awesome.

If you're worried about the "grades" - man - your in the wrong sport - and I have a box of tissues for your teary eyes.

One thing that I like in a bouldering guide is "userability" and with a plethora of topo maps, you are definitely going to have no doubts when it comes to finding the specific name and grade of the V2 that you're not going to be able to do.

The Maps themselves look great and are comparable to a work of art. All in all - SWEEEET!

You can pre-order them now or check them out on the Publisher's website:

http://www.greenergrasspublishing.com/guidebooks/

Been a While...

Its been a while since I've posted - I guess it was that I didn't want to admit to myself that I'm back to having a steady job - its funny - I think that my training and climbing is more consistent now that I have job to sit down at four times a week.

I've been at "classes" for the past month learning and getting certifications for my job (bridge engineering job) - but have been running and training - mostly abs, but now that our basement homewall is awesome (45 degree) - I am planning on some bouldering training as well.

Matt Fanning, Katherine Pabody and I have done several trips to Chattanooga this winter, with mixed weather/results.

I'm doing a 4 dayer this weekend to HP-40

The new guidebook is awesome and I was quite happy and lucky to snag one of the 40 "pre-release" books. I managed to score three images in the book. There's a photo of me on "Pop-eye" so I guess I need to go and send that problem huh?

I'll make a point of updating my blog now that I have come to turns with "being back in a real life" again.

Oh - and we've been just as busy as ever establishing new routes at the Meadow - Once we get most of the routes sent - I'll post the PDFs...