The New...then the red...

This was a good 3 day weekend - on Friday, I spent half the day drilling two new routes at the Meadow - they actually ended up being moderates....quite good too - and long(ish).

Then Bill met me at the Meadow and we sent those two + another one that I had drilled, but didn't get to try the week before.

Friday night, I drove to the red. Though it rained, it didn't impede on the climbing at all - though I woke up sat night to a waterbed - it was crazy - my tent area flooded out - but the tent was good enough that it didn't leak through. I moved the tent regardless, and have a good nights rest after a heinous lighting storm.

I was really psyched to one-hang my project - Harvest. I made it to the almost full rest (past all the hard stuff) - only to pump out on the ?11+ portion.....I think that it will go down very soon.

I climbed several new routes at Drive-By as well - well..two - Slick and the 9mm and Yada Yada Yada - the latter being quite good....

Some New routes....

Yesterday - Bill finally connected the dots for "Final Twilight" at Cotton Top - I had been scoping the line for a couple years now and was hoping it would be a moderate...nope.....probably not a single move on it easier than 11- - well that's how it goes.

Final Twilight (5.12b/c) - starts about 10 feet left of "Cottonhead" and follows 3 bolts through techy and thin face. A committing move to the anchors highlights the route - if you blow it - you're gonna fall (cleanly) most of the route - pretty awesome and Bill's best to date.

sticking with Bill's theme, (in names) I did a 1 bolt mixed route which I called - Breaking Dawn (5.9)

Hopefully we'll be back to business as usual Friday and Saturday at the NRG - I'm hoping to send another one of my bolted routes - a 12a at the Meadow - stay posted...

I've been climbing so much that...

I've been climbing so much that I just don't have enough time to train!! darnit! well - life has been quite good in the Danno climbing world.

I submitted four photos and one video the the Morgantown local BAMFF. I also submitted a video - the Coopers Rock Video which was on the DPM site a while ago.

I was really bummed out that none of the kids like the video that I did for the JIBS bouldering series - I was going for "sports action" but I think some of the kids were upset because there were a lot of falls and not enough sends.

I've been doing the red a lot - and have been working my respective projects there - getting closer on a few...and feeling stronger. The Red River Gorge is a great place to gain some fitness, though my power has been waining - Bill and I have been working a project at the NRG - its probably 12c or maybe a hard b - and I just can't bare down and lock off on the crimpers! Well - we'll let you know where it is and details once Bill sends it (which will likely be tomorrow after work)

I haven't been shooting TOO many photos lately, though, I've been focusing on my climbing (and the scenery has been dreary) - but now that the trees are out again - I'll start shooting some more.

I shop some photos a few weekends ago (see attached)

I love this time of year....

Some new routes...

Once again, Bill and I climbed at the "destination not under discussion until we're done" crag.

Bill is really close on his project - Final Twilight (12b) - and keeping with his naming theme, last night I sent:

Breaking Dawn (5.9) - a 1 bolt mixed route.

I'm heading to the red again this weekend - I've been going to the red a lot these days.........

Not a bad weekend

It being Easter, I visited the family in Pittsburgh - though I day tripped the Red River Gorge Friday - man - its funny - working hard routes really beats the heck out of one....I've been working "Harvest" and its just beating the crap out of me.

Saturday - I met a crew of peeps at McConnells Mill, which was my home crag growing up. As a kid - I remember trying this route "Mini Ovest" aka Peter Pan (5.11d) a severally overhanging top-rope route (all the routes at the Mills are top-rope routes) - its more like 12a or 12b - but who's counting right?

I was feeling pretty beat from the Red the previous day and was getting shut down on the boulder problems (though I did several V4s that I have life-time wired).

Yesterday, Bill and I went to some crag at the New to work a project we drilled last week - its pretty hard - I couldn't do the second crux move, though Bill is really close on it - I think that he's going to send it tomorrow (we're going again after work.)

Its pretty hot though this time of year! and the bugs are a major bummer - but that's life.

I haven't been training lately, and I think that I've been eating too much - though not a major deal - I haven't been training - all this climbing is getting in the way!!!

Some New routes...

I've been fairly reticent on my blog - though mostly because I don't want to divulge key information.

We (Bill and I) bolted 3 new routes at crags which we won't mention until we send the routes (I'm worried about people poaching routes)

Last night was a horror show - you know those little green briar things? Yeah - those things, well they suck big time - especially when one is wearing shorts.

I'm day tripping the red tomorrow - then heading home to see the fam, but Bill and I are hoping to climb after work next week and start working our respective routes....