Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Wedding and the Red River Gorge


This weekend, I shot photos at Jeremy and Kim Shahan's wedding - definitely a nice and fun wedding =). Being in the area, I decided to boulder at Coopers Rock on Friday. Conditions were hot and moderately swarmy - though temps were DECENT. I ran around Roadside and did most of the easy classics - my power was quite good - though I was having trouble hanging onto the smaller holds (taking into account the greasy holds)

I had an enjoyable time in Clarksburg WV at the wedding, - then drove down the Red River Gorge in KY.

Temps were hot.....kinda nasty, really but then its training season right? I did a few new moderates - some classics actually - two at the "What About Bob" wall - No Sleep 'til Campton and Kentucky Flu - both 5 star five tens.

I was really disappointed with the Chicka Bonitta wall though - not only did we get moderately lost on the way - but I got on a "4 star" route - The Dude Abides - I was pretty beat up but still - the bolt job was just terrible - you either climbed the obvious holds and didn't clip the third bolt at all....or did a silly move...its just a bad bolt placement.....

and the first bolt was loose and came unscrewed on me while climbing it - I guess I was just being a Sally - but I didn't have much fun on that route.....


Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Bishop Guide



I just got my hands on the new Bishop Guidebook by Wolverine Publishing.

Its amazing!! wow...I just can't believe how incredible it is.....the images are stunning - the problem descriptions are funny and straight forward.

I was really happy to get a handful of images in the guidebook as well - though I'm really missing that place now! I think I'm going to try and spend the month of November there. I'm not sure yet though. I've always been more of a sport climber.....

Iron Man Traverse (v4), Bishop, Ca



Been a while...


Its been a while since I've posted - I guess I've just been a slacker! I've been climbing lots - though my training has totally been slacking - I'm really hoping to motivate myself here though!! Seriously - I need to run and do some abs if I'm going to climb 5.13 this season? Not counting all the upgrades in the New NRG guidebook, I'm up to 190 5.12s - 10 more to go before my goal of 200 and my entrance into trying 5.13s.

We've been fairly busy at the Meadow - developing a handful of areas. I think that some are cursing my name since I bolted a handful of moderate lines at Area 51. "Free Range Show Poodle" at 5.8 is really good, long and almost completely clean, though all the others need considerable brushing and/or traffic - which I mean to do on a follow up trip. Two weeks ago I sent "Natural Regressions 5.12b?" which is about 20 feet left of "Natural Progressions" - it starts with a difficult (V5?) boulder problem and then goes a good ways until a final "Slab" V4 crux. I originally bolted this line as an "easier way to the top" to shoot photos of steep routes there.

Bill Bauer has been working hard on the "Feed Lot" an area we aren't yet disclosing the location - though most of the "Good" lines have been bolted at least, but some of the proudest (and hardest) lines are yet to be sent. Zak Roper sent "Wilson" 12b/c though two weekends ago.

Zak Roper and I went hiking a couple weekends ago and found a completely undeveloped and amazing crag - though we need to figure out hiking access....also - I think I may have found a handful of new crags (though the rock quality may be questionable) - stay posted though.

Here's an image of Zak Roper on "Sacrificial Lamb Direct (5.12b)" at the Feed Lot.