Day 3...Bishop...

Day 3:
We had a really good excuse for flailing today – it was day 3 in a row on. Well…we did sort of take it easy the past two days – but well…that’s a good excuse right? Ryan and Hiked up to the Happys this morning. Ryan was ------ this close to flashing solarium, but he got it second go casually. We did “Heavenly Path” – a really scary, but good high ball V1.

We screwed around with and both sent this cool V4 arête, to the right of the Hulk. We both meant to put some project burns in on the Hulk – but were both feeling pretty tanked after a combined Roid Rage on Serengeti. We were both extremely close to sending like 30 times…but so close…so far.

When we got to the parking lot, my brakes finally gave out. I had purchased a set of wrenches, however, the critical tool that I needed – a C-clamp was not to be found. We asked nicely and so other boulderers drove into town and bought us one and we got it done in like five minutes!

We meeting Nancy tomorrow early at the Buttermilks where she is hoping to send her V8 project. Man – that girl got strong!

Day 1 and 2 of my Bishop Trip

Day 1:


After closing on my house, (9am – 9:50am,) I picked up Ryan and we hit the road. We drove for 25.5 hours, from Charleston WV, to Rifle, Colorado. (1540 miles) – It was pretty rough – and let me tell you – Kansas is the WORST state to drive across…the only thing worse is the first half of Colorado which is just as bad.

So one major bummer – I left my entire toiletry bag at home. Thankfully, I stashed some extra contacts and bought the rest…

Today we climbed at Rifle. W were literally FOJJ….step out of the car and fall of “Feline” (11a). I managed to do the route second try, but I finally understand what the “Rifle” thing is…you spend so much time trying to figure out all the moves that you pump out on the crux which is the last move….well at least that’s what happened 3 goes on this 11c “GET NAME” – I was really close on it though…seriously. really close.

“All the rock in Denver is choss” – James Glover.

My verdict on Rifle. This place is rad and I want to come back for sure – spending maybe a week or two next summer here. The climbing and movement is quite unique; the holds, yes are polished, but the feet stick better than I thought they would…the crag to car to crag is amazingly short.

After a short lay-over-night in Rifle, Ryan and I are heading to Indian Creek.

I’m having a little bit of brake trouble…well a lot – the front left brake makes this nasty grinding sound every time I drive less than 40mph…

Day 2:

After Rifle, we were planning on going to the creek, but ended up just pushing it to Bishop! I’m definitely getting a little irritable at Ryan’s expense, but I’m trying really hard to think about how bad my brake grinding is getting. I need to get those brakes changed today or tomorrow – or soon. My Rotor is getting pretty grooved…

Ryan was a freaking trooper last night – he did MOST of the 10 hour drive from Joe’s Valley to Bishop…while I lay in the passenger seat in a somewhat half conscious stupor (listening to an Audio book – Ender’s Game) – I missed several big parts, so I’m pretty sure that I passed out.

Joe’s Valley was rad and definitely gets a check mark for “Come back to visit this place”

We went to “Area 51” at New Joe’s; we were taking it easy –

We did a handful of easy problems – though some of them weren’t that easy! The climbing felt similar to Red Rocks a little bit – no where near the type of Sandstone climbing we get in the East – which is MUCH grittier. It was, in-fact, closer to limestone than to the sandstone that I’m used to.

We ended up getting chased out by a nasty rain storm. I was working this V6 Dyno problem – coming CLOSE to the hold, but maybe an inch below it. It was cool for me because it was such a long move – that I really had to focus my brain into pushing and pulling as hard as I could at the exact right time…I watched a couple other guys do it; They were hitting it, but coming off…So I don’t think I was really close to sticking it…definitely a fun one though!

We ran into a group and shot some photos of them – it was great watching some peeps crushing hard problems.

So I think we’re doing the Happy’s today – its COLD (and perfect) here in Bishop.

Gearing up for a big trip...

I have about a week before I leave on my trip - about 18 or 19 days away from home. The major destination is Bishop, CA, but with stops at Indian Creek, Rifle, and in Boulder (Clear Creek Canyon?)

I am leaving either Wednesday night or Thursday morning (27th or 28th of October.)

I will be blogging daily on my trip with photos.

The biggest drive will be the first - from Charleston, WV to Denver or Rifle, Co - about 22 hours or 26 hours depending - not including stops. I'm hoping to get a day in at Rifle, but am not really counting on it; We (Ryan Smith and I) will most likely be stopping for at least a day at Indian Creek - maybe a couple depending on how much Ryan likes it.

Likewise, Joe's Valley is a probably - either coming or going or both stop for a day or two.

What I am really looking forward is Bishop though - and have a handful of projects/goals for the trip. I'm not really in great shape, but decent...I've been in better, but I'd like to try and project the following problems at Bishop

1. High Plains Drifter (V7)

2. The Hulk (V6)

3. Strength in Numbers (V5)

4. Seven Spanish Angels (V6)

Coopers Rock..

Friday, Andy and I walked out to "Two Big Rocks" at Coopers Rock - a sport climbing area...we managed to find it first try and were psyched!

Then, I got this crazy idea - that I wanted to try and repeat the old classic "Pump It Out" 5.11d R - which was put up by Cal Swoager in the late 80s? or early 90s?. We were not sure on the "R" rating until Mike Paugh try the route as well - fell at the crux and ripped both pieces of gear, hitting the ground. The gear was placed well, but the crack shattered (and trashing my cam.)

Thankfully, we had a handful of crash pads - that coupled with the gear ripping slowed him down enough that he didn't get seriously injured.

I'm really glad I didn't fall...and don't know if I would lead the route again - though I may consider bouldering it - since its only about 30 feet tall...of course the crux is the last move...