23 degrees at Coopers Rocks...

At least, that's what Lena's car said - but it was sunny.

If it were any warmer, the snow on top of all the boulders would have melted and the problems would have been wet, but it didn't and they weren't.....

One thing I learned yesterday - you need SOME moisture for good friction - the friction was actually terrible - the chalk wouldn't even stick to my fingers - it was crazy!

Making holds again...

So - I've been hanging out in Pittsburgh for the past week and will be here for another week, before heading on a four day trip with Matt - to who knows where - then to Charleston for the winter season.

I've started making climbing holds again.

The motivation came from climbing at Climb North here in North Park, Pittsburgh.

I bought some pottery clay at the craft store. Now - the mold is the hardest part.

I got a request from Bob for a type of hold that I've made before. So I made a cast out of clay (though this one is a big more positive than the requested hold) - and I used All Purpose Silicon.

To get the viscosity down, I boiled it (in its tube) - it took a whole tube for one mold - and its tough to not get air bubbles.

Its "drying" right now - I'll let you'all know how it turns out and if it works, I'll make another hold (using my other tube of Silicon) - if both of those turn out, I'll get some expoxy resin and color sand and go from there!

Now - to get a really GOOD mold - you need to get a $100.00 per gallon rubber molding...if I get my hold thing going again - I'll start using that and go big time with it.

I've been thinking about several cool hold ideas....

Stay posted =)

A day at the New with Matt...

Matt, his friend Paul, Ryan and I did a day at the Meadow - at Area 51 and the Pebble...what a day! It was PEEEERfect - like maybe mid 50s and cloudy....I was feeling pretty good about my day - I warmed up on one of the 10s, then managed to do Sam's 12a/b (If You Lick It, They Will Come) second go - a good route - I managed to trundle a laptop sized block out of it though! Its a good route - for sure.

Then we went to the Pebble where I onsited Gray Goose (12b) - though I hear eddie said he thought it was more like 11d - I can't really tell since I've been away from the new for so long.

I did "Brown Star" second go - a 12a - I totally missed a dead-point at the crux on the onsite, pulled the rope, no rest and then did it (though I was really really close to pumping out on it!)

Matt did really well - as well - doing almost all the moves on "One for the Gipper" (13b/c?) - He was really really close to sticking the crux dyno and basically hiked the lower crux (bolt to bolt)

Some Lilly Video

So we rolled into the Obed late Friday night - as we roll in - there's two dudes (Hunter and Tom) getting ready to go bouldering - a night session with lanters....we couldn't turn down filming that! Stay posted ! We filmed several problems - including Laurel Arete, Long Arm of the Law, Take that Kelly Brown and Some jump (next to Laurel arete...)

Heading back to WV today!

Been a While

Its been a while since I've posted, just been climbing a lot - this weekend, we did a two dayer at the OBED which ended up just being a one-dayer for me - just hanging out - causing trouble, you know all the good stuff.....I managed to do 2 new 12s....so that means I only have 18 more 12s to do until I don't have an excuse (I vowed not to seriously try 5.13 until I've done 200 5.12s.....)

Back at the red tonight - my last night here - then heading to WV - gonna climb at the New Weds - then Pitts with the fam (and bouldering friday I think at Coopers Rock...)

not a bad day...

we climbed at the PMRP today - which is one of them there new crags - at the Red River Gorge - pretty rad - we warmed up at the playground - then I was really psyched to onsite the route - that like everyone onsites (I had to try pretty hard for it darnit!) - Far From God (12b) - yay go Dan.

Been a while since I've onsited a 12b - not counting the stuff at Jackson's Canyon of course. You know - I don't think I've ever onsited 12b at the New River Gorge - infact, I don't know if I've onsited 12a there.....

Another Creek Shot...

and a day at the new...

having been creeking for a week - i figured i'd get on all those old intimidating trad routes at the new that I've never been on.

did

Smooth Operator (off-width)

Bio Hazard (crux at the top - sweet)

Diversity in Microcosm (not R and not 5.9 - more like 5.7)

Wall Street...

so my overview of Moab

Moab is sweet - no other way to say it - the camping is free - in the desert; over aminities (except a sketchy porta potty) - not even water, but you just drive the hour into moab, stock up - and you're set - that's camping at Indian Creek....which is awesome!

Its basically just a bunch of splitter - perfect cracks - with sometimes roofs and features and that sort of thing...

So a lot of times - you need like 8 number 2 BDs...its crazy like that.

Moab itself is a cool little town - mormon, but not giving in without a fight. The downtown library is great - and they have a bunch of cool audio books!

Wall Street - belaying off your bumper - is where good routes go to die...the rock is pretty bad...like its cool to climb, its just scary to fall on....

If you're going to the creek - and are not a crack climber, you're gonna need a lot of rest days - my quads and ankles hurt from putting them in cracks...seriously...its like you got down wrestling a bear when you get off a route!

Its crazy - the desert, you just don't feel like you're on earth. You don't believe that something like that exists on the earth....its rad....

Here's a vertical from Two Bag Face...

Rest Day - oops...yeah Wall Street

So I was totally on my way to taking another rest day when Phil and Jessica showed up at the Library.

We did Wall-Street - which is like....well - the sport park of moab minus the grid bolting. Its NO JOKE belay off your bumper - really cool though! Good routes, but scary gear placements...its really really soft sandstone.

Managed to bag a new 12a - it was hard though.....

Freaking A - hard boulder problems hrmphhh.....

Back to the creek tomorrow

Unpack and Re-pack

how much stuff CAN you fit into a Honda Civic? the world may never know....

OK - the Creek...yeah....!!

So - here at Indian Creek - I feel like a total gumbie....I've basically been getting ripped a new one - this jamming thing is super rough....I may be kinda getting it - I don't know though. But we climbed two days.

Unfortunately, the guidebook does not describe approaches - and is inaccurate on gear beta. For example, on Mr. Peanut, the guidebook says 8 1" pieces, when you get to the beginning of the book - you convert 1" to 0.75, so I bring 6 0.75" and and um well two 0.5s...of course, I needed 0.5s. I ended up throwing a wobbler.....ran it out on a crappy 0.4 BD...a bit - then managed to overcam the crap out of a 0.75...and then managed to get some smaller gear (that was actually good) to the anchors.

Of course - that route at 11- felt easier than Chocolate Corner (5.9).

The first day, I tried Desert Moon - which absolutely kicked my butt....after the opening crux, from 30 feet to 130 feet - it was totally just slogging....omg....it was nuts...its not like you can actually fall out of the jams, but you just give up because you don't have anything left in you...its rough...

Oh - we did "Tom Cat" too...that was cool - it was my first route of the Creek (not counting that other time I was there.) - more slogging and jams.....pretty cool. I had to run that one out too. Dropped a #3 BD...that I needed for the top - I just stacked to #4 BDs and ran it thirty feet to the chains - once again - its not like you can actually fall out of it...you just give up whhen you can't stand the slogging anymore....

Today is my rest day - just chilling in Moab - two more days of slogging =)

So what is Moab you ask?

Well. There are two main types of rock climbing - those were you clip pre-placed drilled bolt anchors - and those that follow crack systems where you bring your "gear" with you as you go - placing caming devices into cracks.

Moab is pretty much THE mecca for the latter type of climbing - Traditional climbing - or in short, Trad climbing where you bring your own gear with you as you climb cracks.

The rock here is Sandstone, though QUITE soft desert sandstone - at least compared to the likes of the New River and Red River Gorge. The cracks are just perfect however. Almost always perfectly parallel and just plain spectacular!

I'm here for a week, then I'm off to the HP40 competition in Alabama.

Over the Mountains and Through the Desert...

to Moab I go!

And the library here is the best I've ever been to - here I sit - blogging, working on photos, playing my mud game - and importing two new audio books - Dune Messiah and Dune Battle of Corrin...and after that maybe 1984.

I drove through the mountains over I-70 - it was definitely scary in spots! But made it - I went slow....and listened to the Harry Potter Book 7 audio book. Good stuff man...

I am soooooo incredibly psyched for MOAB!

The temperature here is PERFECT - cool, but sunny....perfect!

Here's a photo from pack in Denver - Kristen's dog Rigby.

The Spot...in Boulder

All my life...well ok maybe not - I've heard about the Spot in Boulder. This "legendary" gym - huge - spectacular.

It was cool - and any negative praise I may mention here is a minuscule and scrupulous banter. The place is truly awesome, regardless of my negative comments.

My first impression was - wow. This place is really small....there's two free standing boulders. and like 3 walls - one of them really steep.

I envisioned the place the be A LOT bigger! The problems were cool - and one thing that I'd like to note is that there are a BUNCH of moderate problems - which is cool and good for warm-up.

The topouts were cool. The problems - some were unique and afforded good movement and tricky beta. It just...well...wasn't as cool as I thought that it would have been. Really - it just WASN'T big enough....

I really wish it would have been bigger - maybe 4 pillars instead of two....anyways...still kinda cool.

Snow?????WHAT???

OK.

SO I made it to Colorado, and i get here and what do I find? IT snowed and is snowing....there's some "chain" law to get to Moab through the mountains....I'm hoping to check out the climbing gym here tomorrow - not sure...or maybe I'll check out the Spot....I would like to check that out.

Meeting Phil and Jess at Moab Sat =) (hopefully I can get there!)

my drive across Kansas.....

Really - when you're going to colorado from ANYWHERE - its Kansas that blows....

yeah..

it sucks...

its long.

and its flat

and its straight

and its flat

Your major landmarks are that cornfield on the left. And that other corn field on the left.

I saw a few cows this morning.

The sunrise um.....over the cornfield was nice this morning too.

I was gonna walk into a hotel and get free breakfast this morning, but figured that I have this no interest credit card - i may as well use it....

and.....my omlet is almost done....back to the road....

Random Newbie Crag Story...

oK...so there I was - in the midst of the "beginner" crag a really cool group of people..just hanging out - there were several 5.8s that I hadn't done and wanted to do and Allison wanted to try some of the routes there to finish the day.

Well...there's like this ONE 11c there - and there was like a bunch of dudes and this group of two (arguably cute) females doing it. The one girl was doing it, though with some extremis...well;

All my life, I've been labeled/assumed to be a weak climber...I don't know why - but anyways - well - I walked up to her in my most awing voice I asked, "Wow, that looks really hard how is it?"

She replied almost condescendly, (still strutting a bit I might add) - "Oh...its 11c, fun, kinda easy". I was like, "Oh wow - nice job though! That was awesome!" my tone flawless.

See - I figured I'd limit myself so she could feel better about her self...Well...Allison, bless her heart goes, "Um Dan, didn't you onsite this entire wall?"

Mentally i was like "Doh!" - the girl gave me a weird look, I kinda looked awkward and walked away...muttering something like ALLISON!

maybe you had to be there....

Some road tripping stuff....

here's a few things to make that 19 hour drive through the night a little better...

1. Audio Book - A MUST!!!!

2. Lots of Caffeine (whether be in the soda or coffee format)

3. Munchies - the worst the better....

4. You don't need to buy something to use a restroom at a gas station - look for sheetz, they tend to have cleaner restrooms...

Heading to Utah....

To quote the Smashing Pumpkins:

"The more you change the less you feel"

I've always thought of this in the sense that when we're little and we have so little in our bubble of life, things are simple, and we one thing changes, regardless of its magnitude, it changes a lot in our life.

But as we get older - not only do we get used to change, but our bubble gets, bigger. However, this is at a cost of sensitivity.

I've never liked to watch war movies - the biggest discernment being the casualty of death; the waste of life with somewhat indifference. Take for example, in "Saving Private Ryan" - where they're all running up the beach - a bunch of people get shot and the other soldiers don't even make a second glance...then they're sitting against a "dune" and the machine gun fire ripples across the top, one of the men killed by the bullets....once again, a seamless uncaring...

Anyways - yeah I'm off to Utah, I'm not jumping with excitement, I haven't planned the trip - I haven't even thought about what I need to bring, just my car, computer, camera, some cooking stuff - sleeping bag.....I figure I'll just figure it out when I get there....not even sure how to get where I'm going. Figure I'll follow signs for "Denver"

Da New...

So my past two days consisted of bouldering at Coopers Rock with Joel and climbing at the New River Gorge.

I love this time of the year - when the colors pop...its amazing!

So my plan was to solo up my favorite route: Two Bag Face (5.9) at Fern Buttress - though I got halfway up - got scared and said SCREW IT and down climbed it!

Got some photos of Chris on it though....

SO RRG today and tomorrow - then OFF TO INDIAN CREEK!

-Danno

Engagement Photos

Nothing beats fall colors =)

Here's an old one...

Philly.

So I left the red on Monday or so - stopping in Pittsburgh for the night. I spend two days in Philadelphia, checking out the gyms - pretty cool places - that's for sure...shot some gym photos...the first time I've shot indoor photos (with my lights)

Pretty cool - I was psyched - I totally sent the green problem! (and flashed the blue one!)

The scary woman...

Ok so I'm in Morgantown for the weekend - long story short, I went into Adventure's Edge and noticed that several people were discussing the impending tree cutting to occur at Coopers Rock.

Well - of course, me being me, I had to express my opinion, saying that cutting trees is fine. I mean - what the forest burns naturally every 500 years or so - also, a mature forest doesn't hold as much wildlife as a timbered forest....

Well - this lady went nuts on me and the second that I realized that she was an extremist, I politely said that I was through with my conversation with her. Well, she didn't seem to be, and asked another question, which I politely dodged and then changed the subject.

Well she stormed out on me.

Good one Danno - you sure know how to keep you're trap shut - anyways...

Pulled a Photo out...

Here's one that Bill shot of me last season, Soloing at Sunset Walls at Coopers Rock...

A day at Muir...

We climbed today at Muir Valley, I did some really cool routes, including this one route: Rat Stew (5.10a)

I managed to 2nd go a 12a at the Sunny Side or something - it was called (checking book now) -

Suppress the Rage (12a) - I uh,, well could have gone left or right and I chose wrong the first time (but still almost did it.) - 'DOH

just a random one...

just in case...

my last one didn't offend anyone...

So what is the motherlode anyways?

I figured that not everyone has been to the lode - so I'll talk about it..

Basically - "The Lode" consists of a few walls - The undertoe wall - which is short(er) - about 25? degree overhanging routes - lots of slopers and crimps, with jugs.

The wall gets progressively taller as you go left (actually the ground drops...)

On the far left is Leave it to Beavis (12d) and Tuna Town (5.12d) - Tuna Town is the classic endurance route. Its about 60? feet of say 11+ or 12- jugs to a rest (60 percent rest I'd say)

The next sequence is fairly hard - maybe a V3 or V4 with a clip in the middle to a rest jug that tend's to be wet (about a 70 or 80 percent rest).

Another hard - sequential boulder problem follows - the finishing move goes to what looks like a horizontal, but its a bumpy kinda crimper thing...you match that up then hit a "rest" jug - get a quick shake here, clip, heel hook and do a move to a really really good rest.

This rest is probably a 85 or 90 percent rest - with heal hooks - you can kinda get your wrist on the jug too...its really nice to rest on.

Then its a V3/V4 to the anchors.

You get maybe 5 good crimpers - then two crappy weird crimpers - there's not real edge on them - kinda bumpy...then you get a good "tooth" crimp - a jug crimp, then a sloper jug to the left of the anchors to clip.

Most people just jump here. You skip the first two clips on the route as a matter of course - to save your belayer (who gets pulled almost to the third) - then you take the 50 footer.

Its pretty casual when you're used to it.

Here's a shot of the undertoe wall - Elodie on Resurrection - a really bouldery 12c....

As you continue on, you hit the madness cave - which is just plain madness - no - its really really steep - its pretty much the reason that a lot of people come to the lode...

the routes grades are as follows (left to right) (not counting extensions)

14a, `13b, 13b, 14a, 13c, 13a - For a lot of the routes - you need a 70m rope - the madness cave essentially climbs a somewhat vertical (for the red) wall to a break - then the wall tips back to REALLY steep for a while - then rounds up to a headwall...here's a photo:

There is the GNC Wall (or something like that) - which has several god, classic routes, including 8-ball (12d), Snooker (13a), Cut Throat (13b?) and Thanatopsis (14b)...its baller...

There's some other walls, but they suck (not really - I'm just done typing)

couple days at the lode....

I swear I'm the worst (male) climber at the lode - its humbling...basically people warm up on my project.

I don't care though - For me - success is determined by me trying as hard as i can on a route...

Sending a route is nice - which means I can move onto another route - and continue trying hard...but its not the motivation. If I never do Harvest - that's OK.

I'm happy with my progress on it - and its rad! I made it through the crux today on point.

The start is a hard boulder problem, the it eases off a bit - just techy balance stuff...with some cool rests.

Supposedly, the crux is a transition sequence from the one rib, to another, but that move - on my little check list of moves that I can piss on - it has a checkmark...

Ok maybe not...but still...

Its the move after that - which as been giving me trouble - its definitely a hard thrutch move for me...but I think I got that one doable...its hard - its where i fell...after that move is a really really good handle bar rest - which has been wet...

Then its a serious of hard boulder problems with OK rests to the anchors - the move TO the anchors is pretty hard - small edges (for he lode) - powerful....I bet I blow it there...

Sent my project...yay!

So I finally did Tuna Town - it was rad - I spent like 15 minutes at the last rest and it went down fairly easily - go figure!

Allison Martyn - To Defy...

To Defy the Laws of Tradition (5.10a), Left Flank, RRG

About time...

I've finally sacked it up and did some good climbing...we went to curbside today - It had been a while since I've onsited 12a, but I managed to onsite two today - I swear the 11c that I did at the end of the day felt just as hard as those two 12s!

Rocktoberfest and Beyond...

Last weekend was Rocktoberfest - the first time that I went to the event; I spent most of Saturday selling stuff for the RRGCC at the booth - and filming.

I managed to get SOME climbing in Sat morning heading to Left Flank; I got a good bit of climbing in yesterday at Eastern Sky Bridge - it was a bit hot for that place (I know! still hot!) - Eastern Sky Bridge, though, is a winter crag - because its basically in the sun all day.

I mostly did repeat routes, though I led a new trad route - the Underling. Its really cool. You climb up this dihedral, under a trash compactor roof. - then traverse under the roof.

It starts out with finger locks above you - and then opens all the way up to a BD #4. Then you crawl through this hole and belay...its pretty rad =).

Couple more days at the Red - not bad =)

OK - so yesterday we did a Trad day - with Elena and Dustin - I managed to onsite Rebar, an 11a trad route....kind of onsite - i shot photos of it last year - but never felt any of the moves....anyways....I also did this really cool route called smoothie nut (10c) - it was spectacular - really cool less than 90 degree dihedral.

I got some more video teaser....

TRAD TEASER 2 from Daniel Brayack on Vimeo.

So climbing today???

Its been two whole days since I've climbed - I really feel like I'm falling into a rut here...of not climbing...its crazy!

So I think that I may have a video gig - helping out a friend with a video job at a Heavy Metal concert....yah - ok lets count on my fingers how many heavy metal concerts I've been too...well if I do this one, it'll make exactly 1....

So I'm trying to decide - do I want to get a Mac Laptop or PC laptop....top of the line of course....life is so full of hard decisions.

Does anyone know when Mac releases their new line of Laptops?????

RRG Trad Teaser...

Here's a teaser for my RRG trad video....

RRG Teaser Video from Daniel Brayack on Vimeo.

At the new - then back at the red!

I went to the New River Gorge for the weekend - meeting Matt Fanning and crew.

Saturday was a Meadow day - Matt bolted a new link-up somewhere out in the woods somewhere.

I tried Made in the Shade, with new knee bar beta, but still couldn't do the move off the underclings....oh well....

Sunday - we climbed at Endless Wall - I went back to an old project of mine - Seeing Stars, a really good 11d arete route near the Fern Point Ladders.

Then we went to try Fall Line (12b) which Matt onsited - SUPER cool and very atypical for the NRG - more like a RRG route - the crux is basically a foot-cut dyno....then pumpy to anchors - kinda cool!

I headed back to the red today, and am here for a while!

Hoping to film more Trad climbing + I brought my Jib Arm back from Charleston...

Some Video Today....

I took a rest day today and filmed this dude Kyle on two trad routes - Andromeda Strain and Synchronicity....looking good....

I managed to clip half of my nail today - it hurts a lot, but getting better (I HOPE!)

Not a bad day at the Lode....

Climbed at the lode today - once again, the finger isn't the limiting factor...

Got my butt kicked again on Tuna Town, but I think it'll go....

1 finger down, but still pulling...

Went to the lode today my finger hurts, but it wasn't the limiting factor.

I've been at the red for about two weeks; today was really the first NICE day that we've had, but we're looking to have a lot more of them so - life is good.

Here's a photo of my finger....



and of Lena, sending Chainsaw =)



I'm heading to the new this weekend - for like 4 days or so.

-Danno

Squashed my finger....'doh

So I was working at the trail day on Saturday here at the red and squashed my finger - the nail is broken about half way - it really hurts and sucks. I tried to crimp really hard yesterday and it just hurt alot . 'DOH! I hope it heals soon...

Heading to the New River Gorge this weekend, I left a static rope on one of my cave routes - hopefully the mice didn't chew it - new to PC7 it...then it'll be good to go probably....I just need to sack it up and send it - its hard....probably ?12c? we shall see.....

Went to the gym in Cinci...

So its been rainy and nasty here at the red for the past few days - so Liz and I decided to head up to Cinci and hit up "Climb Time" the gym there. - Its crazy how many strong ppl there were there....I figured half the people in the gym could send mid 13 here at the red....dudes were doing, in their flip flops, basically the hardest problems I could do there....

Its rainy today - but I'm beat - so gonna take a rest day. Tomorrow is the muir valley trail day. WORD

Kinda Rainy..but...

Its been a great past 4 days in a row climbing =) - though it rained yesterday and looks like rain today - a perfect excuse to rest and chill - finish unpacking...rest the fingers and all that...

My website got hit by a virus - I'm not sure how - I haven't logged in or anything...go figure...hopefully I'll be able to get that up and running soon....

1st day at the red...

Not a bad day today =) Elena and I went to the Darkside....after warming up on a couple short routes - we worked "The Force" which is really cool - definitely not what I've been climbing all summer =) but its cool - I'm hoping to project it - it'd be my first 12d at the red....

I got a new tent too - its not nearly as big as Gigatent - see last year - though its still be enough for my cot =)

Hanging out...

Just been hanging out in Pittsburgh the past couple days - I needed a break for a while - going to the climbing gym now =)

-Danno

Zelda, 13a at the NRG

Trip List for the Red...

An FYI for those who are thinking about living at a climbing area for a while, I'll post my check list...

Tent (a big one) - walmart style
Tarps (one on the bottom, one over top since its a walmart tent)
Ropes (to tie up my upper tarp)
Sleeping Bags (two)
Cot (about 85 bucks online - these things are EXCELLENT!)
Futon - to put on the cot...STYLE baby...
Climbing Gear
CLothes
Books (you will get really bored - lots of books = = good)
Bolt Gun (You never know...)
Quilt and Sheeting (for the cot!)
Head Lamps (you need lots)
Cameras (gotta pay the bills...)

Roadside today..and then getting ready for a few months...

So it looks like we're heading to Roadside today. I've done most of the routes there that I think that I'll ever be able to do...

Though I haven't done this route - Science Friction (12b) - I'm hopefully going to try it today...we'll see - it looks intimidating...

I'm heading back to WV tonight (and maybe Pittsburgh) - I'm going to gather my things for a month or two at the red =)

Not a bad day at the Red....

Still hot, but I managed to send a new 12a - called Nicorette...it at Military - I have always been intimidated ... it looks really blank from the ground, but it gets 5 stars in the guide - well - it was in the shade - so we tried it today - SUPER cool =)

So my thing is - that I'm going to try and do 200 5.12s before I start trying to send a 13a...so as of today - I'm up to 170 - though I figure i'll jump a few more once the New River Gorge guide comes out - i think some of the newer routes are going to get bumped...we shall see.....

Hanging out at the Red

I've been at the Red River Gorge in KY for the past few days - its been really nice here - a but hot, but nice none the less. Two days ago, we climbed a Phantasia - which has this REALLY steep line - Twinky - super cool =)...we tried Eastern Sky Bridge, but unfortunately, it was in the sun - so we got really hot on the stuff we tried there.

Yesterday, we climbed at Muir Valley - not too many routes, just a few. And then we went to Margarita night in Winchester. I'm not much of a drinker, so I was the DD - the benefits of which being that I ate for free - though all I had was fried Ice Cream - it was pretty good though =)

Not sure where we're going today....

Weekend at thet Meadow....

About freaking time we got some cool weather!!!!!

Bill and I were at the Feed Lot again this weekend - it rained on us Sat - but not UNTIL we decided we wanted to start climbing - ugh! But we drilled 3 new routes - one cave route - one route with a 4 foot horizontal roof (and jug ledge over it- like a surfboard - really cool) and a techy vertical route with a sloper boulder problem finish.

We climbed yesterday - it was great! Nice and cool - almost perfect!

A really nice girl hooked me up - gave me a bag full of draws to use as fixed draws - and some cash for bolts - THANKS DANIELLE!!!

I'll give you'all more info when we finish the area and send all our projects =)

Some New Stuff...

Two new routes at the "Feed Lot" - one I bolted for Bill for his birthday - probably about 12b - its long....maybe 60 feet or so....maybe 70...with some HARD boulder problems.
I bolted another line too - this really fairly steep, but intermitently feature white wall - its really cool.....stay posted =)
We stayed with John in his really cool cabin at the New - Totally what I want as a bachelor pad - just one room - basically a shed.....here are some photos...
I need to figure out where to put my big screen tv....

Visit the Fam - and the State Fair...

I went home to see the family last week - it was rad =)

It was great to see Dad, my Grandpa, and my Grandma -

My grandfather in the 50s with a bunch of fiends built a hunting camp - and it was a nice camp - we grew up going to vacation there - well some jerk face burned it down, but we got insurance money - so we built a new one! Its not the same, but its really nice...

i went to the WV state fair on Friday with Jacqueline - totally made 30 bucks - if you pay the dude 10 bucks - you get to "try" the money route and if you do it - you make 50 bucks...so 10 bucks to get in - ten to climb - voila!


added a couple new routes at the Feed lot on Saturday with Bill - once we get that place up and going I'll post some route info - stay posted.

I started training this week - gonna train for the fall season - ran 20min today, did abs and pushups......

Good Weekend

Lets see - good weekend - I drilled 3 routes this morning - or was that yesterday morning? they all blur together - they are on this really cool tall boulder - out in the woods somewhere - where I won't say =)...at least until we send all the good routes there - then we'll post a TOPO...

Another guy has a new area as well - we did a new line there (12a) - that was really cool - also - he didn't get on it today - but another guy and I worked another of his routes (with the obligatory hang to not steal the route) - its really cool - its a good 12b - hard but asethetic boulder problem to a ledge - then another boulder problem - slabby but vertical - kinda cool...

Anyways - we'll post topos of both areas once we've had our way with them - stay posted.

Here's a video from a couple weeks ago - Andy - you're going down next time...

We uh..well had a little sword fight from Daniel Brayack on Vimeo.

Matt and Katy Photos

Here are some photos from Matt and Katy's engagement session...=)

SUPER fun.