So - here at Indian Creek - I feel like a total gumbie....I've basically been getting ripped a new one - this jamming thing is super rough....I may be kinda getting it - I don't know though. But we climbed two days.
Unfortunately, the guidebook does not describe approaches - and is inaccurate on gear beta. For example, on Mr. Peanut, the guidebook says 8 1" pieces, when you get to the beginning of the book - you convert 1" to 0.75, so I bring 6 0.75" and and um well two 0.5s...of course, I needed 0.5s. I ended up throwing a wobbler.....ran it out on a crappy 0.4 BD...a bit - then managed to overcam the crap out of a 0.75...and then managed to get some smaller gear (that was actually good) to the anchors.
Of course - that route at 11- felt easier than Chocolate Corner (5.9).
The first day, I tried Desert Moon - which absolutely kicked my butt....after the opening crux, from 30 feet to 130 feet - it was totally just slogging....omg....it was nuts...its not like you can actually fall out of the jams, but you just give up because you don't have anything left in you...its rough...
Oh - we did "Tom Cat" too...that was cool - it was my first route of the Creek (not counting that other time I was there.) - more slogging and jams.....pretty cool. I had to run that one out too. Dropped a #3 BD...that I needed for the top - I just stacked to #4 BDs and ran it thirty feet to the chains - once again - its not like you can actually fall out of it...you just give up whhen you can't stand the slogging anymore....
Today is my rest day - just chilling in Moab - two more days of slogging =)
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