Back at it at the Meadow.....

Wow - man my life just goes soooooooooo slow, its amazing......Like - while driving out of the Meadow today (gushing through the waterfall that you drive over) - i was like...wow - I hardly remember driving in....

soooooooo I went in - my good Buddy Matt Fanning and crew from Virginia were running late, but Matt was bringing his drill - so I rapped down a new line I wanted to bolt in the hangar, ticked all the holds, set all the gear (you use trad gear to keep you into the steep rock) - marked all my bolt placements....

Well - Matt was running really late and another buddy of mine, Eddy rolled up - we both sent the route on Trad Gear since we were bored - I was thinking maybe 10d or so, Eddy thought 10a, Matt later did it and though 11a, as did Chance....so if you put that all into the concensus calculator - you get 10d.

While drilling that one, I spotted a line of holds to the right - on this really thin - white wall - I bolted that one as well - figuring if I couldn't do it - I'd sick Matt on it - That one ended up taking maybe 2 working burns and 3 - I didn't do it that night - one - hanging it - though I managed to send it this morning - I really had to try hard for it - it starts on the previous route that we drilled - and then breaks right - there's a dynamic move to a good edge, then a setup food smear, then a really long move to a bad edge - a hand foot match - then a power move to a good hold - then you traverse left and clip the anchors on the previous route. Matt talked me into adding a bolt and anchor about 7 feet up the nasty chossy always wet rock....I'm gonna pull the hangar and shuts on this finish next trip as its just a waste...

So I named the two routes:

Tell Me Everything You Did Wrong This Weekend (5.10d) - an inside Joke

and

Blame it on Fanning (5.12a) - a pun on the McConnells Mill Route - Blame it on Rico.

While I thought Matt had wrecked or something - he was, infact, creating a tyrolean (high rope) traverse across the Meadow River so we could go across the high river to Cambodia.

After sending "Blame it on Fanning" this morning - we all loaded up the packs and swam across the fridigly cold river (and hauled our packs across the lines)

We all pretty much gang banged the 3 actually 5.10s (more like mid 11s) on the 5.10 wall - but the hightlight of the day were the addition of several new trad lines.

Sam Powel established "Run Fat Boy Run" and intimidating off-width roof crack.

Also - Matt Fanning eastablished : "Snail on a Straight Razor" - a quote from Apacolyse Now - 10d. This route follows a discontinuous crack on the 5.10 wall at Cambodia - it finishes on an anchor shared with the route to its left "Double Barrell" a Zak Roper 5.12b.

After Matt's initial go - he thought 11c - then I went up on it - found a better sequence and ws thinking maybe 11b - then we cleaned it - wired it - ran laps on it and decided to just call it 10d to be safe....i mean - it is on the 5.10 wall right?

So I may be going to the Gunks this weekend. A basically free trip minus a drive to Virginia - and $$ to get into the place...