We spent the past 3 days at the New River Gorge, though its not like we camped - we did the American thing - and just drove back to Charleston to sleep in beds (which was quite nice)
Summersville was a good day - it wasn't busy - Elodie slept in - and we rolled up around 12 or 1 - I warmed up by bolt-to-bolting Apollo Reed, however, I still can't do the crux move off the hand - I'm really bad at undercling/sidepulls - pulling up into them - so thave move just crushes me.
I bolt-to-bolted Reckless Abandon - and actually managed to second go it - it felt quite easy to be honest - and I think if it were a Tigger Route - we'd have called it 11d/12a...but that's just me....
Tuesday - was an ALL trad day - the only bolts we clipped were anchors; basically we spent the day at the Brain - and well - we did just about every trad route on the Brain - with the highlight of my day being onsitting the 11b direct start to Brain Teasers. It was a bit sketcy as the gear wasn't exactally totally great (or there for that matter)
Yesterday - we did Rico Suave - warming up on the name-sake route - and then between Elodie, Bill and I we put ?20 laps on Pockets of Resistance - I managed to fall off the top move like 5 times....Elodie did it 3rd go - I managed to do it like 7th go or so - and Bill - poor Bill - he fell off the top like 4 times! He's totally going to do it next time =)
Summersville was a good day - it wasn't busy - Elodie slept in - and we rolled up around 12 or 1 - I warmed up by bolt-to-bolting Apollo Reed, however, I still can't do the crux move off the hand - I'm really bad at undercling/sidepulls - pulling up into them - so thave move just crushes me.
I bolt-to-bolted Reckless Abandon - and actually managed to second go it - it felt quite easy to be honest - and I think if it were a Tigger Route - we'd have called it 11d/12a...but that's just me....
Tuesday - was an ALL trad day - the only bolts we clipped were anchors; basically we spent the day at the Brain - and well - we did just about every trad route on the Brain - with the highlight of my day being onsitting the 11b direct start to Brain Teasers. It was a bit sketcy as the gear wasn't exactally totally great (or there for that matter)
Yesterday - we did Rico Suave - warming up on the name-sake route - and then between Elodie, Bill and I we put ?20 laps on Pockets of Resistance - I managed to fall off the top move like 5 times....Elodie did it 3rd go - I managed to do it like 7th go or so - and Bill - poor Bill - he fell off the top like 4 times! He's totally going to do it next time =)
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