And then there were a few new routes...

We went on a bit of a climbing spree lately - you know - now that the season is perfect - 100 degrees and 100 percent humidity...but serioulsy...

Julia arrived yesterday - so the crew was She, Bob and myself - we drilled a new route yesterday - I did it bolt to bolt - just to make sure it would go - and it does - maybe 11+?

Tentative:

Disco (5.11d)***: Stick clip and follow jugs to a SUPER-THIN stand up slab mantel to better holds. A few more long moves on small holds lead to a deadpoint for a sloper. A few sloper roof moves and you're at the lip - then you get to do the crux...well maybe its not the crux, but its three sloper moves in a row on a slightly steep headwall......and if you blow it - you're gonna take a huge ride - you can't really stop to clip - so I didn't put any bolts past the lip of the roof =)

Bob sent his route: Hard, Pipe Hittin' Tiggers... =)

We ran into Russ and Matt - two cool dudes - and Russ worked "Submarine" - he suggested a couple bolt moves - which of course, I did - and he's right - it climbs much better now - I also added an anchor to it (It used to finish on another route's) anchors...

Today is a rest day - we're just gonna sit around all day and sleep - and watch Pulp Fiction - so Julia will get all of our jokes (maybe.)

Here's the update:



s•30 Plumb Pudding 5.9 ***

This route is a link-up. Start on Way of the Beaver and finish up TK. A bit run out. This one basically skips all the “bolted hand crack” shenagans.

80 ft. 5 bolts. bolt anchor. Matt Fanning 2007

s•31 Maintaining the Line 5.11a **

Start a few paces right of “Way of the Beaver” and follow three closely spaced bolts through a crimpy crux. Continue up plates, trending right for easier climbing at the middle roof. (Trending left here is about 11c.) Finish on high anchors. This route crosses “Rosetta Stone”

90 ft. 10 bolts. bolt anchor. Dan Brayack, Bob Value 2009

s•34 Pooh’s Thought Spot 5.11b

Steep white rock leads to a blunt arête and a roof. Pull the roof and climb brainy rock to a poorly placed anchor. This was the first route established by Matt and Dan at the Meadow. This anchor may be moved soon after press time.

50 ft. 6 bolts. bolt anchor. Dan Brayack, Matt Fanning. 2007

s•35 Hard, Pipe Hittin’ Tiggers 5.12b ***

Boulder up to the first bolt and follow techy slab to a coffin feature. Whip out some king fu and finish on anchors over the roof.

50 ft. 7bolts. bolt anchor. Bob Value, Dan Brayack. 2009

s•36 Disco 5.11d ** (still closed project)

See Above.

70 ft. 7bolts. bolt anchor. Julia Krueger, Dan Brayack. 2009

s•37 Tigger Gets Medieval on Pooh’s Asshole 5.11d **

Stick clip and power through a low roof. Continue up the white face through another roof and redpoint crux to an anchor high on the slab.

70 ft. 8 bolts. bolt anchor. Dan Brayack, Bob Value. 2009

s•38 New Mexican Rodeo 5.11a *** (still a closed project)

Start just right of the crack. Boulder past the first bolt and follow bullet slab past a ledge to anchors.

80 ft. 8 bolts. bolt anchor. Andrew Mason, Matt Fanning. 2009