A few days at Bishop

The past few days at BIshop have been pretty good - though i'm kinda getting my butt kicked - and sorta not. I'm repeating just about everything I did last time pretty fast - did "Bowling Pin" at V4 third go. and aparently, the only guidebook said the sit-start was part of the V4 for bowling pin, which I did , but the new guidebook says that holds have broken (though not since I've done it) and its a V6...so I did Bowling Pin (V6) last time - making it my first V6 at Bishop...thought it felt hard for a V4! I found really good beta yesterday, too, for the upper crux on Bowling Pin. I love using holds that have no chalk on them and making it easier for myself. It makes me feel like all those years of climbing and bouldering have paid off in experience.

I did Birthday Skyline (V3) which was a new one for me, and repeated Birthday Direct first go (which took me a bunch of goes last time.) - I also did the Hero Roof (V0) which was a total classic!

I got seriously shut down on the Buttermilk Stem (V2)...its just a really physical move that I cannot do (well maybe I'll be able to do it next time - its totally not-a-climber move to get up into it...) Ryan, being not-a-climber did it fairly quickly (just kidding, it took him a few goes.)

I did a couple burns on High Plains Drifter (V7), but got shut down pretty hard.

We did the Happys two days ago - I managed to do Solarium first try (I love that one) but still got shut down on Serengeti. Darnit! I put three burns into "Cue Ball" (V4) as well - a problem I had meant to try my last trip but didn't; that one is at the top of my list now. I like the problem; its hard for me, has long moves between mostly good holds, but with intricate heel-hooks...the crux is a long move off a bad right hand sloper (good feet) to some intermediates, then a jug. I did the move from the stand-start....just a power move off slopers (yummy)

Last night, we frequented the neighboring campsite where the Canadian and Australian girls cooked us a meal fresh from the dumpster at Vons (I'm not kidding)

Today is ANOTHER rest day...that will make two on the trip so far....rest days are so freaking boring.

Day 3...Bishop...

Day 3:
We had a really good excuse for flailing today – it was day 3 in a row on. Well…we did sort of take it easy the past two days – but well…that’s a good excuse right? Ryan and Hiked up to the Happys this morning. Ryan was ------ this close to flashing solarium, but he got it second go casually. We did “Heavenly Path” – a really scary, but good high ball V1.

We screwed around with and both sent this cool V4 arête, to the right of the Hulk. We both meant to put some project burns in on the Hulk – but were both feeling pretty tanked after a combined Roid Rage on Serengeti. We were both extremely close to sending like 30 times…but so close…so far.

When we got to the parking lot, my brakes finally gave out. I had purchased a set of wrenches, however, the critical tool that I needed – a C-clamp was not to be found. We asked nicely and so other boulderers drove into town and bought us one and we got it done in like five minutes!

We meeting Nancy tomorrow early at the Buttermilks where she is hoping to send her V8 project. Man – that girl got strong!

Day 1 and 2 of my Bishop Trip

Day 1:


After closing on my house, (9am – 9:50am,) I picked up Ryan and we hit the road. We drove for 25.5 hours, from Charleston WV, to Rifle, Colorado. (1540 miles) – It was pretty rough – and let me tell you – Kansas is the WORST state to drive across…the only thing worse is the first half of Colorado which is just as bad.

So one major bummer – I left my entire toiletry bag at home. Thankfully, I stashed some extra contacts and bought the rest…

Today we climbed at Rifle. W were literally FOJJ….step out of the car and fall of “Feline” (11a). I managed to do the route second try, but I finally understand what the “Rifle” thing is…you spend so much time trying to figure out all the moves that you pump out on the crux which is the last move….well at least that’s what happened 3 goes on this 11c “GET NAME” – I was really close on it though…seriously. really close.

“All the rock in Denver is choss” – James Glover.

My verdict on Rifle. This place is rad and I want to come back for sure – spending maybe a week or two next summer here. The climbing and movement is quite unique; the holds, yes are polished, but the feet stick better than I thought they would…the crag to car to crag is amazingly short.

After a short lay-over-night in Rifle, Ryan and I are heading to Indian Creek.

I’m having a little bit of brake trouble…well a lot – the front left brake makes this nasty grinding sound every time I drive less than 40mph…

Day 2:

After Rifle, we were planning on going to the creek, but ended up just pushing it to Bishop! I’m definitely getting a little irritable at Ryan’s expense, but I’m trying really hard to think about how bad my brake grinding is getting. I need to get those brakes changed today or tomorrow – or soon. My Rotor is getting pretty grooved…

Ryan was a freaking trooper last night – he did MOST of the 10 hour drive from Joe’s Valley to Bishop…while I lay in the passenger seat in a somewhat half conscious stupor (listening to an Audio book – Ender’s Game) – I missed several big parts, so I’m pretty sure that I passed out.

Joe’s Valley was rad and definitely gets a check mark for “Come back to visit this place”

We went to “Area 51” at New Joe’s; we were taking it easy –

We did a handful of easy problems – though some of them weren’t that easy! The climbing felt similar to Red Rocks a little bit – no where near the type of Sandstone climbing we get in the East – which is MUCH grittier. It was, in-fact, closer to limestone than to the sandstone that I’m used to.

We ended up getting chased out by a nasty rain storm. I was working this V6 Dyno problem – coming CLOSE to the hold, but maybe an inch below it. It was cool for me because it was such a long move – that I really had to focus my brain into pushing and pulling as hard as I could at the exact right time…I watched a couple other guys do it; They were hitting it, but coming off…So I don’t think I was really close to sticking it…definitely a fun one though!

We ran into a group and shot some photos of them – it was great watching some peeps crushing hard problems.

So I think we’re doing the Happy’s today – its COLD (and perfect) here in Bishop.

Gearing up for a big trip...

I have about a week before I leave on my trip - about 18 or 19 days away from home. The major destination is Bishop, CA, but with stops at Indian Creek, Rifle, and in Boulder (Clear Creek Canyon?)

I am leaving either Wednesday night or Thursday morning (27th or 28th of October.)

I will be blogging daily on my trip with photos.

The biggest drive will be the first - from Charleston, WV to Denver or Rifle, Co - about 22 hours or 26 hours depending - not including stops. I'm hoping to get a day in at Rifle, but am not really counting on it; We (Ryan Smith and I) will most likely be stopping for at least a day at Indian Creek - maybe a couple depending on how much Ryan likes it.

Likewise, Joe's Valley is a probably - either coming or going or both stop for a day or two.

What I am really looking forward is Bishop though - and have a handful of projects/goals for the trip. I'm not really in great shape, but decent...I've been in better, but I'd like to try and project the following problems at Bishop

1. High Plains Drifter (V7)

2. The Hulk (V6)

3. Strength in Numbers (V5)

4. Seven Spanish Angels (V6)

Coopers Rock..

Friday, Andy and I walked out to "Two Big Rocks" at Coopers Rock - a sport climbing area...we managed to find it first try and were psyched!

Then, I got this crazy idea - that I wanted to try and repeat the old classic "Pump It Out" 5.11d R - which was put up by Cal Swoager in the late 80s? or early 90s?. We were not sure on the "R" rating until Mike Paugh try the route as well - fell at the crux and ripped both pieces of gear, hitting the ground. The gear was placed well, but the crack shattered (and trashing my cam.)

Thankfully, we had a handful of crash pads - that coupled with the gear ripping slowed him down enough that he didn't get seriously injured.

I'm really glad I didn't fall...and don't know if I would lead the route again - though I may consider bouldering it - since its only about 30 feet tall...of course the crux is the last move...

A harrowing trip...

--Steve Lovelace on Lock-Smith (V3) at Grayson
Its been a while since I've posted - I've been keeping on the DL the route development which we have been doing at the Meadow - mainly because a lot of my projects got snaked at the "Feed Lot" which we developed this Spring.

This fall - I've slowed down - drill maybe about 20 some routes...but this post isn't about the New.

I had a pretty rough (in a good way) weekend - lots of driving - and climbing - and hiking - HIKING - I hate hiking...truly.

Friday, I did Grayson Highlands State Park - where I met some rad locals - did a bunch of boulder problems - that place is cool - check it out!

Saturday - I climbed at the new at Summersville lake - and unfortunately, I took a really ugly lead fall and I think fractured or badly bruised my heel.--Raina doesn't think that 8 miles is a long hike (at 3 months old)
I promised Matt, though, that Sunday, I would check out this "new" crag with him - from Google Earth, we could see this 200? foot tall limestone pillar. It is near Seneca Rocks, but the unfortunately fact is that its OUT IN THE MIDDLE of no-where....so (on my fractured heel), we hiked about 8 miles (lots of up-hill and stream crossings) to check out this pillar...the most obviously appealing line was the front face of this giant pillar.

--Another heinous hill on the way in...

So we hiked around the top (the climb being quite crappy.) - well...The top of the formation was narrow and extremely loose. So we decided to rope up and traverse the skyline, placing bolts as we went.

--Matt and Katherine at a stream crossing

It ended up being a major epic. Neither of us fell, but it took quite a while - and we ended up wasting 10 bolts (and the battery to drill them) in 3 150? foot traverse pitches. At one point, I realized that if I fell, I was a dead man...or at least would have hoped to be - no good rock to anchor...just as I grabbed a block the size of a refrigerator - and it teetered. I managed to keep my balance and push the block off the otherway - it was really really scary though....--The gorgeous river.
Finally, when we reach the front face (there was some spectacular trundling involved!), we drilled an anchor and rapped the face. I got about 5 bolts into it when the driving rain and dead batteries ended the day (we had more batteries at the base, but screw it right!) - well, we left the rope hanging - the route is going to be about 160 or 170 feet with intermediate rap stations.

--All chossy limestone looks good up close.

its pretty spectacular.

--After a couple stream crossings, its lunch time.

This weekend, I'm shooting some photos for a friend in Pittsburgh and hopefully doing some bouldering up there...not sure about the weather and the whethers....

P90x...

So I officially started my P90x workout Sunday evening - I climbed Sunday, but not really enough - so I did Arms and Chest...I'm glad that I pregamed last week - I didn't TOTALLY suck with that workout.

The plyometrics workout was the one that I was the most worried about (last night) - but It went MUCH better than it did the previous week as well - I was pretty excited that I only had to pause it once (or maybe twice I don't remember) - The abs workout wasn't so bad either - I had to pause it a few times and I couldn't do all the workouts to the max reps, but it went much better than the previous day.

P90x Workout

As with the energy it takes to workout and lose weight, I've greatly improved my dietary efforts as well. I had 3 eggs for breakfast this morning, and a slice of Pies and Pints Pizza. I bought a bunch of fruit at the store for lunch (and probably finish off the Pies and Pints Pizza) - Dinner will be a salad at Panera.

Tonight's P90x is going to be Shoulders and Arms.

So - Those of you that know me - know this - but its funny because I'm a pretty crappy climber for one who does it with his life...I've sent one V7 - and it was a while ago - and have only RPed a handful of 12ds....I'm really hoping that this workout will push me into being more solid on 12+ and maybe - just maybe I'll send my first 5.13a this fall? I sure hope so.

I'm planning a two week trip the first two weeks of November - I'm thinking about driving out to Bishop, with a stop at Joe's Valley on the way there and back (its like an hour and a bit out of the way!)

My P90x workout will take me to about two weeks before that. Also, I'm getting a hangboard in the mail here soon and am hoping to add a weekly hangboard workout to my P90x routine.

so yeah - life is hard (not) - I've been going to sleep at 830 - so I can wake up at 530 - to go to work - then I come home, train and then sleep....(I only work four days a week though.)

I'll keep updating on my P90x and if/how its improving my climbing.

P90x...

So I've decided to try the P90x workout - It was suggested to me by Ray Ellington (he's a beast) and I figured it would be good for me to do some general fitness stuff. It will certainly cut into my climbing performance; its a 7 day program and I'm going to cram it into 5 days (Day 6 is Yoga and Day 7 is stretching - gonna skip stretching and put Yoga)

I'm officially starting next week - though I'm going to do some of the workouts this week just to get some of them down.

Yesterday - I did the "Chest and Back" + ABs. - I did one cycle through Chest and Back (it does each twice) - then did abs...and it just crushed me...it was awesome - Tonight is Plyometrics....to quote my facebook post "I've always wondered what it would be like to wake up hours later in a pool of my own blood" - since plyometrics is the "art of leaping"...Its a 3 month schedule and I modded it to get it into five days...

I also did a bitch of switching around so Friday's are "light"


Week 1-3:
1. Monday – Chest and Back/Abs
2. Tuesday - Plyometrics
3. Wednesday – Shoulders and Arms/Abs
4. Thursday – Legs and Back
5. Friday - Kenpo and Yoga
Week 4:
1. Monday – Yoga
2. Tuesday – Core
3. Wednesday – Kenpo
4. Thursday – Core
5. Friday – Yoga
Week 5-7:
1. Monday – Chest, Shoulders and Triceps/Abs
2. Tuesday – Plyometrics
3. Wednesday – Back and Biceps/Abs
4. Thursday – Legs and Back
5. Friday – Kenpo and Yoga
Week 8:
1. Monday – Yoga
2. Tuesday – Core
3. Wednesday – Kenpo
4. Thursday – Core
5. Friday – Yoga
Week 9:
1. Monday – Chest and Back/Abs
2. Tuesday – Plyometrics
3. Wednesday – Shoulders and Arms/Abs
4. Thursday – Legs and Back
5. Friday – Kenpo and Yoga
Week 10:
1. Monday – Chest, Shoulders and Triceps/Abs
2. Tuesday – Plyometrics
3. Wednesday – Back and Biceps/Abs
4. Thursday – Legs and Back
5. Friday – Kenpo and Yoga

Week 11:
1. Monday – Chest and Back/Abs
2. Tuesday – Plyometrics
3. Wednesday – Shoulders and Arms/Abs
4. Thursday – Legs and Back
5. Friday – Kenpo and Yoga
Week 12:
1. Monday – Chest, Shoulders and Triceps/Abs
2. Tuesday – Plyometrics
3. Wednesday – Back and Biceps/ Abs
4. Thursday – Legs and Back
5. Friday – Kenpo and Yoga

and that's all folks.....

Day 3: Continued
The hike out to the boulders – for once – wasn’t a horror show…and the boulders were quite cool. We met up with a couple dudes that have been helping to establish and keep the place open – they were really cool and I shot a bunch of photos of them and their female counterparts.
We’re talking about maybe checking out the “TV-Tower” crag tomorrow – with the major draw being the short(er?) approach. I sure hope it’s a short approach.
The interesting part about “the Dump” is that is a really sensitive ecological area. The Ontario group (OAC) was pretty key in negotiating the opening of the boulders, but you have to be really careful to not trample/mess with the flora – especially this special “Daisy.”

Day 4:
The bugs were really bad last night – I basically said – ok sorry dude, but screw this I’m going to bed (despite napping twice and the fact that I wasn’t tired) - I just couldn’t stand the swarm of mosquitoes…A few made it into my tent, though I didn’t wake up with any painful bites – I do remember swatting at a few that were buzzing around my head.
On a road trip – I think that rest days are the most difficult thing...more so making the decision that we need a rest day. We need a rest day today…but screw it – we’re going climbing. We’ll definitely need a rest day tomorrow – for sure...I think we’re talking about checking out this white sands beach or something...
I’m not sure where we’re going to today yet, though we may check out the “TV Tower” crag since it supposedly has a short approach (God I wish!!!)
This trip is really nice – It feels like I’m climbing full time again – I’ve been gone away from work long enough that I don’t really think of that as my “life” – not that I really do much anyways – having a 3 day weekend every weekend.

-----Day 4: Part 2-------
Today has definitely been the most humid day – we drove out to the T.V. Tower crag (funny enough the one guidebook lists it, but doesn’t even give directions to it – how lame right?) – well it was a total poison ivy fest/chosspile….well maybe the one route there looked good – but we said screw it – not worth it….well maybe…but not really…We ended up just taking a rest day….
I think we’re gonna climb at Lion’s Head tomorrow…

Day 5:
Totally got my butt kicked – its sad for me to admit, but I’m not climbing 5.12a anymore ☹. I really need to whip myself into shape – I put 3 more goes into “Busted at Bedford”, but was unable to do it…the third go I made it all the way to the anchors and was just too scared to risk the forty foot whipper on rusty bolts…the anchor clip is probably the crux – the holds end about 2 feet below the anchor so you basically need to dead-point clip the anchor, then lock-off and pull up rope and clip…well maybe next year right?
I did manage to scare myself up this really cool 5.10c trad route (on the Latvian Ledge) – Fastball? Or something like that…Totally thought I was gonna die...but whatever right? If you’re not scared – its not a trad climb? I need to get back into tard shape – I was feeling pretty good last season…
The bugs here….are….reallllllly…bad!

Day 6:
Today was more of a “mellow” day – at least we didn’t try anything harder than 11a – though we did try, but fail miserably to find “Katrina and the Wave” – after a nastyish bushwhack and a bunch of arêtes that all looked the same (and we didn’t seen any bolts), we headed back to past the Latvian Ledge to do a line that caught my eye several days ago – we rappelled in and did “Lady Slipper” 5.10a which was probably the best pitch we’ve done so far – then we did the companion line (mind you it took me three goes) – “Magica Moment” 5.11a. I didn’t expect to do anything hard so I only brought my “one-size big/comfy/smear shoes” to the rappel ledge…oh well…you got hosed tommy…you got hosed…
..I’ve come to realize that I am a very smear oriented climber – and well…smearing on blank limestone walls doesn’t cut it like it does on sandstone…I really need to work on my edging…I just always default to smearing when I can…We finished up by doing “Skunks Do It In Tevas” 5.9 – a high quality, variety climb with two mono moves….it was really cool. Looks like two more climbing days – and so far – NO RAIN…did I just curse myself? We shall see…
We’ve been hitting the Lion’s Head Inn every night for dinner…the food is…well pretty good – a big pricey- but I guess you get what you pay for – especially in Canada…

Day 7
You know is gonna be a tough day when its 10:00 am and you’ve already taken your daily max of Ibuprofen…
Totally hosed us – it rained today. We got exactly as low of an elevation from the car as possible when the storm hit – we went into the boulder field at Half Way Dump only to get totally dumped on…well that’s life I guess right? So we went driving around a bit – and found this really really nice, warm beach on the other side…of course it was raining… jumped in anyways…the water was actually warm…and nice – of course it was freezing so I got out pretty quick and high-tailed it…
We’re not sure but if it rains again tomorrow, we may be pissing on the fire and calling in the dog and heading to a boulder/climbing area in PA called the Allegheny Nation Forest (ANF.) – not sure yet…
We drove up to Tobermory today – it was…well…it was nice. There were trees. And some roads…and I think we saw a few rocks. We got out at this visitors center and Bob got to see what a Fisher looked like “oh and a biiiiiig bear too”. I just waited in the parking lot. I used his phone and saw a picture of a Fisher too. Of course – all these photos of this gorgeous blond popped up too. Go figure. Try doing a Google image search for a “Fisher.”

One thing that I’ve noted here on the Bruce Peninsula is the people – they’re really nice and cool – I think every night at the Lion’s Head – we chit-chatted with locals – the waitresses – other patrons – we even had two people stop by our campsite to talk to us. Super rad…

Day 8 (The day that the music died):

Coopers Rock Guidebook...

Its funny - I just bought a Coopers Rock guidebook on Amazon - it was actually cheaper (including shipping) than I can buy it from the publisher myself....funny right?

Day 2 and Day 3 at Lion's Head...

Day 2:
We did Lion’s Head proper today – you know – I’m starting to see a theme around here (other than limestone and pockets) – freaking long and heinous hikes! At least there aren’t any hills…but man – they’re really long!!! – especially when carrying the camera…
We did a handful of pitches today – including two really good moderate warm-ups, a decent 11b (that felt easy) and I put two burns into this HEINOUS 5.12a called Busted at Bedford. The 2nd burn, I made it through the crux, but was just too scary to clip the darned draw! I think if I get back on this one – I’m gonna hang a dyneema from the bolt and clip mix crux instead of trying to clip off of good hands and no feet.
The climbing at Lion’s Head was on the “blue” limestone, though the nature of the routes, the movement and the sketchy bolting was very reminiscent of climbing on Endless Wall at the New River Gorge…We saw this really cool crack climb – I think we’re gonna come back and do it (and maybe hopefully send that darned 12a)
I snapped a few images today – once the sun came over, the lighting was just exquisite. After loping back (more like staggering the way my feet were feeling), we did Dinner for the 2nd night in a row at the Lion’s Head Inn.

Day 3:
“We were pondering how many ‘Toonies ’ it would take at the local brothel to figure out what a ‘Rusty Blackbird’ (V5) was, but later learned they named the problems after the Flora and Fauna in the park.”
Has it really only been three days? I’m feeling totally whooped – I guess that we’re calling today a rest day anyways – but not really – we went bouldering at this place called “Half Way Dump” or “the Dump” – the bouldering was pretty good – though limestone (I was hoping for granite – but you can’t always get what you want…)
I basically got my butt kicked – though I’m totally blaming “day 3 in-a-row” – my guns were just thrashed and I kept falling any time I needed to call in the reserves. I did do a handful of V3s that were quite good.

Lion's Head Part 1!

I typed a trip report while at Lion's Head - I'm gonna post it in parts....
I'm holding photos hoping to get an article in DPM


Day 0:
…was basically that – Day 0 – driving….about 8 or 9 hours of it with stops from Pittsburgh, to the campsite which is - what – not at Lion’s Head – yeah that’s right – Cape Croker. It was fairly expensive here - $100 CAD for a week – I guess all said in done that’s not terrible though.

There was a lot of cool things on the way up – though I drove the whole way and just wasn’t into the “take photos of things” mood – though I will probably try and shoot all the goodies on the way back – granted – all the cool stuff was in Canada – like the Wind-mill farms….We saw a place that had an “anti-wind energy sign” – I think I’m gonna write a separate satire against wind energy…that sounds fun?

I had threatened to be sassy to the border guard – to basically tell him to piss off – I’m an American and could go wherever I wanted – but I ended up being more like – ummm yyyes sssssir….nnooo nooo sir….West ViiiVirginia Sir….tthhhthahhank you sir.
Last night = we hiked up to the climbing at Cape Croker, though I think that we are seriously lacking for a guidebook to the area – the area was cool, with some good looking lines, but short. The mosquitoes were in fact, really bad…I must have killed 30 or 40 of them – I’m glad that I brought my hoodie – to keep them off my face and arms.
Yesterday was “Canada Day” – I guess it celebrates the day that Canada fought and won it independence or something….I’m not sure what we’re up to today, though I think that we had mentioned doing White Bluff – since its in the sun for Bob and STEEEEEEP for me ☺

I warmed up this morning on the playground at the campground here – it really is quite nice, though really busy. I guess all the Canadians are really happy to celebrate the day that they fought for their independence…

Day 1:

Not a bad day – I did sorta get spanked though! We climbed at White Bluff – which actually has a pretty crappy and long hike – no seriously – it was long! Nice though – nice scenery, nice million and half million dollar houses that we walked by on the way.
The mosquitoes here really suck which is a bummer – but they’re not horrible horrible – no worse than WV during the worst time of year for them.

I did manage to onsite two 11s and a 5.8 – though totally got spanked (one hung) this really good route – They Live (5.12b) – pretty sketchy and pumpy – I fell the first go on it because my feet slipped (Limestone is tough!) and the second time I just pumped out – I’m hoping to send it next go or two – if we make it back there.

We drove around a good bit today – mostly being tourists. I went into the water -which was cooooooold but nice…just up to my knees – I knew better than to jump in jump in – I would have frozen my butt off!
I think that we’re gonna try and climb at Lion’s Head proper tomorrow…

Wedding and the Red River Gorge

This weekend, I shot photos at Jeremy and Kim Shahan's wedding - definitely a nice and fun wedding =). Being in the area, I decided to boulder at Coopers Rock on Friday. Conditions were hot and moderately swarmy - though temps were DECENT. I ran around Roadside and did most of the easy classics - my power was quite good - though I was having trouble hanging onto the smaller holds (taking into account the greasy holds)

I had an enjoyable time in Clarksburg WV at the wedding, - then drove down the Red River Gorge in KY.

Temps were hot.....kinda nasty, really but then its training season right? I did a few new moderates - some classics actually - two at the "What About Bob" wall - No Sleep 'til Campton and Kentucky Flu - both 5 star five tens.

I was really disappointed with the Chicka Bonitta wall though - not only did we get moderately lost on the way - but I got on a "4 star" route - The Dude Abides - I was pretty beat up but still - the bolt job was just terrible - you either climbed the obvious holds and didn't clip the third bolt at all....or did a silly move...its just a bad bolt placement.....

and the first bolt was loose and came unscrewed on me while climbing it - I guess I was just being a Sally - but I didn't have much fun on that route.....

Bishop Guide

I just got my hands on the new Bishop Guidebook by Wolverine Publishing.

Its amazing!! wow...I just can't believe how incredible it is.....the images are stunning - the problem descriptions are funny and straight forward.

I was really happy to get a handful of images in the guidebook as well - though I'm really missing that place now! I think I'm going to try and spend the month of November there. I'm not sure yet though. I've always been more of a sport climber.....

Iron Man Traverse (v4), Bishop, Ca

Been a while...

Its been a while since I've posted - I guess I've just been a slacker! I've been climbing lots - though my training has totally been slacking - I'm really hoping to motivate myself here though!! Seriously - I need to run and do some abs if I'm going to climb 5.13 this season? Not counting all the upgrades in the New NRG guidebook, I'm up to 190 5.12s - 10 more to go before my goal of 200 and my entrance into trying 5.13s.

We've been fairly busy at the Meadow - developing a handful of areas. I think that some are cursing my name since I bolted a handful of moderate lines at Area 51. "Free Range Show Poodle" at 5.8 is really good, long and almost completely clean, though all the others need considerable brushing and/or traffic - which I mean to do on a follow up trip. Two weeks ago I sent "Natural Regressions 5.12b?" which is about 20 feet left of "Natural Progressions" - it starts with a difficult (V5?) boulder problem and then goes a good ways until a final "Slab" V4 crux. I originally bolted this line as an "easier way to the top" to shoot photos of steep routes there.

Bill Bauer has been working hard on the "Feed Lot" an area we aren't yet disclosing the location - though most of the "Good" lines have been bolted at least, but some of the proudest (and hardest) lines are yet to be sent. Zak Roper sent "Wilson" 12b/c though two weekends ago.

Zak Roper and I went hiking a couple weekends ago and found a completely undeveloped and amazing crag - though we need to figure out hiking access....also - I think I may have found a handful of new crags (though the rock quality may be questionable) - stay posted though.

Here's an image of Zak Roper on "Sacrificial Lamb Direct (5.12b)" at the Feed Lot.

The New...then the red...

This was a good 3 day weekend - on Friday, I spent half the day drilling two new routes at the Meadow - they actually ended up being moderates....quite good too - and long(ish).

Then Bill met me at the Meadow and we sent those two + another one that I had drilled, but didn't get to try the week before.

Friday night, I drove to the red. Though it rained, it didn't impede on the climbing at all - though I woke up sat night to a waterbed - it was crazy - my tent area flooded out - but the tent was good enough that it didn't leak through. I moved the tent regardless, and have a good nights rest after a heinous lighting storm.

I was really psyched to one-hang my project - Harvest. I made it to the almost full rest (past all the hard stuff) - only to pump out on the ?11+ portion.....I think that it will go down very soon.

I climbed several new routes at Drive-By as well - well..two - Slick and the 9mm and Yada Yada Yada - the latter being quite good....

Some New routes....

Yesterday - Bill finally connected the dots for "Final Twilight" at Cotton Top - I had been scoping the line for a couple years now and was hoping it would be a moderate...nope.....probably not a single move on it easier than 11- - well that's how it goes.

Final Twilight (5.12b/c) - starts about 10 feet left of "Cottonhead" and follows 3 bolts through techy and thin face. A committing move to the anchors highlights the route - if you blow it - you're gonna fall (cleanly) most of the route - pretty awesome and Bill's best to date.

sticking with Bill's theme, (in names) I did a 1 bolt mixed route which I called - Breaking Dawn (5.9)

Hopefully we'll be back to business as usual Friday and Saturday at the NRG - I'm hoping to send another one of my bolted routes - a 12a at the Meadow - stay posted...

I've been climbing so much that...

I've been climbing so much that I just don't have enough time to train!! darnit! well - life has been quite good in the Danno climbing world.

I submitted four photos and one video the the Morgantown local BAMFF. I also submitted a video - the Coopers Rock Video which was on the DPM site a while ago.

I was really bummed out that none of the kids like the video that I did for the JIBS bouldering series - I was going for "sports action" but I think some of the kids were upset because there were a lot of falls and not enough sends.

I've been doing the red a lot - and have been working my respective projects there - getting closer on a few...and feeling stronger. The Red River Gorge is a great place to gain some fitness, though my power has been waining - Bill and I have been working a project at the NRG - its probably 12c or maybe a hard b - and I just can't bare down and lock off on the crimpers! Well - we'll let you know where it is and details once Bill sends it (which will likely be tomorrow after work)

I haven't been shooting TOO many photos lately, though, I've been focusing on my climbing (and the scenery has been dreary) - but now that the trees are out again - I'll start shooting some more.

I shop some photos a few weekends ago (see attached)

I love this time of year....

Some new routes...

Once again, Bill and I climbed at the "destination not under discussion until we're done" crag.

Bill is really close on his project - Final Twilight (12b) - and keeping with his naming theme, last night I sent:

Breaking Dawn (5.9) - a 1 bolt mixed route.

I'm heading to the red again this weekend - I've been going to the red a lot these days.........

Not a bad weekend

It being Easter, I visited the family in Pittsburgh - though I day tripped the Red River Gorge Friday - man - its funny - working hard routes really beats the heck out of one....I've been working "Harvest" and its just beating the crap out of me.

Saturday - I met a crew of peeps at McConnells Mill, which was my home crag growing up. As a kid - I remember trying this route "Mini Ovest" aka Peter Pan (5.11d) a severally overhanging top-rope route (all the routes at the Mills are top-rope routes) - its more like 12a or 12b - but who's counting right?

I was feeling pretty beat from the Red the previous day and was getting shut down on the boulder problems (though I did several V4s that I have life-time wired).

Yesterday, Bill and I went to some crag at the New to work a project we drilled last week - its pretty hard - I couldn't do the second crux move, though Bill is really close on it - I think that he's going to send it tomorrow (we're going again after work.)

Its pretty hot though this time of year! and the bugs are a major bummer - but that's life.

I haven't been training lately, and I think that I've been eating too much - though not a major deal - I haven't been training - all this climbing is getting in the way!!!

Some New routes...

I've been fairly reticent on my blog - though mostly because I don't want to divulge key information.

We (Bill and I) bolted 3 new routes at crags which we won't mention until we send the routes (I'm worried about people poaching routes)

Last night was a horror show - you know those little green briar things? Yeah - those things, well they suck big time - especially when one is wearing shorts.

I'm day tripping the red tomorrow - then heading home to see the fam, but Bill and I are hoping to climb after work next week and start working our respective routes....

I've been running

Well - its that time of the season again - though OH CRAP I need to lose weight for the spring season...and I've been running - I ran for three weeks in Jan/Feb then it got really bad outside, and I took a break, but I'm back to it now.

I have this really awesome GPS watch that I mentioned in a previous post.

Here's some of the data from it:

Oh and if you're a runner you'll know that I'm a crappy runner - but it helps me to lose weight for climbing....

The Philly Rock Gym Junior Invitation Bouldering Series or PRG JIBS

Last weekend, I was in Philly, videoing the PRG JIBS comp - totally a rad comp - the Philly Rock Gym (both of the gyms) are awesome - I was totally psyched and really wished we had a gym (like that or any) here in Charleston.

I think my running quote of the weekend was "God willing and the creek don't rise" - and it did, but it didn't rise the extra foot and a half it needed to overtake the only bridge into the gym.

I've been working my butt off lately on the video for the comp, hoping to have it done soon.

I've been training - my weekend two weekends ago at the red was good motivation - I've been running - and fairly hard.

I got a GPS watch - which is really really cool - it gives you your real time speed, distance, pace,all that good stuff + you can hook it up to your computer and it shows your paths and keeps track of your distances and stuff - it was like $150 or so on Amazon and totally worth it! (Garmin Forerunner 305)

I've also been training in my basement gym (which Dave built - nice one dude) - I'm really hoping to make some headway on my two projects this weekend at the red (Cell Block 6 and Heart Shaped Box)

-Danno

The Red......

The red this weekend was totally rad! About time - the weather up until now had been just down right dreadful. It was sunny, but cold, which means that its cold in the shade, but hot in the sun - not that I'm really complaining, but rather stating the fact.

The thing about Miguel's Pizza Shop (THE hangout place at the red) is that it changes, every year - just a little bit (and some years more) - so its interesting to see all the new seasonal nuances. Its nice that there is amply bathroom space there now and the sinks are inside - sweet!

I love that place and I miss living there....but my 4 day a week J-O-B is a pretty good deal.

I basically got my butt kicked on everything - and it was funny - I knew that I would be scared on lead - it happens ever year - after bouldering - I get nervous when taking big falls - so I didn't go all the way to the chains on Tuna Town before jumping (though I did all the hard moves on it.)

I did skip the last bolt on "Cell Block 6" at the Surf and jump almost from the anchors - that was a fun one.

I was working and there was a this cool french dude there (who I met last season) - well - I grabbed the draw as I did the move and was like "That's French style right?"

Well...after hanging I did the next session, just barely, my feet cut, I grabbed the draw clipped screaming and then said take take take ! and he goes "So that's American style then?" It was really funny.

Here's a photo of me with the Pope, the Lead Singer from U2 and the Dahl Lama. Er well - close enough.

Pittsburgh...

Last weekend I went home to Pittsburgh to hang out with my family and some friends - I climbed at Climb North Sat and The Climbing Wall Inc sunday.

I'm trying to figure out what I can train outdoors so I can be better at gym climbing? I was thinking - since my main issue with the gym is the colors - would be to use duct tape on outdoors problems so I can get use to only using specific holds....

Chatta-didn'trainthistime-anooga

The weather this weekend was spetacular - 50s and sunny - a stark contrast of my past 4 - yes 4 trips to Chattanooga. Last weekend, there was a foot of snow on the ground at HP40 - A FOOT! Seriously....

But this weekend was just perfect.

My skin was feeling pretty pathetic though - like the first problem felt like the end of the day...and toda - my fingers were really hurting me.

I started by repeating a bunch of things that I've already done - then I did a few new problems - with my general goal being doing some new V4s and V5s and find a good V6 or V7 to project....

I was really psyched to 3rd go (essentially a 2nd go from a foot bobble at the start 2nd go) Ghengis Kahn (V5) - I think the V4 to the left of it - Black Carpet was probably harder at first, then I figured out the sequence and did it twice - its really good.

I repeated Tri-Star (V4) and Dragon Lady (V4) both fairly easily - first go on Tri-star and like maybe 4th or 5th go on Dragon Lady (my feet kept slipping).

Then I started working Crack of Doom (V4) which I cannot believe use to be V6!!! Its basically a finger crack boulder problem - maybe 20 feet? tall - the crux is a ratly finger lock (or you can press out on bad sloper) - I got it pretty wired and did it several times. If it were on a trad route, I'd say it would probably go at 11b/c.

Its really good though! and the topout - is SCARY.

I ran into some cool cats yesterday and today - and got some photos (though I'll probably hold them and see if I can sell them)

I did this problem - Pocket Pool (V3) which I swear was harder than Crack of Doom! maybe it just didn't fit me - I don't know.

I'm going to head out again tomorrow morning early - tentatively shoot photos of Ashley Hamilton on Midway (V7).

I'm really trying to like not justify having a day job - but its such a sweet gig - its really hard to beat it - I get 3 day weekends every weekend, lots of vacation time.....

I was talking to my friend Bob on the phone and am thinking about maybe doing a 3 or 4 dayer at the gunks once that place is in season.

I have some good images but am going to hold them I think a bit...stay posted...

-Danno

I feel sooooo lazy!

Darn - it I feel so crappy - i haven't really gotten to climb outside in a really long time !! this winter is killing me - I'm trying to decide if i want to dive to Chattanooga this weekend again. I got snowed/rained out four times already but I just can't stand not bouldering!

Its either that or like drive up to Pittsburgh (Closest gym) to get some training in!!!!

.... ugh!

Climbers are Selfish....

I am - I'm totally selfish. Last night, my friend Bill and I were talking about the latest crag. If you follow my facebook, I've been calling it the "40" foot slab...that I'm going to grid bolt. Well - its starts with 40 feet of slab....

But Bill was like "Save some routes for me, I want to bolt some" and I was like "Well...I'll just have to make sure I get all the ones I want first =)"

Am I being selfish - of course I am - I got bored of doing routes at the New River Gorge proper - sending just about every route that I can do (I only climb like mid to easy 12) - so well....I got bored...so I started turning to the Meadow where the potential for new routes is incredible.

There are at least 3 more "crags" left out there almost completely untouched that are left out of the new guidebook - and another 2 crags which are "mostly developed, but not sent" and "half-way developed".

So I'll be focusing the next few seasons on establishing routes here.

Developing routes is a lot of freaking work and expensive - but I like punishment + I think it gets me into shape...anyways - stay posted....Once we finish up at the "High Density Feed Lot" and Sam gives me the go-ahead on the "Congo" we'll post those guides.

I'm sure with the New NRG book by Wolverine hitting the shelves presently, the masses will have a bunch to keep them busy.

WORD

Chatta-always raining-nooga

SO this makes 0/4 for me on Chattanooga....Armed with the new guide to HP40 - I was pretty psyched, though when we got there - there was about a foot of snow on the ground.

Total hose job...so we ended up climbing in the gym two days....

Getting a Wii?

So one of my friends put some pressure on me to get a Wii - yeah - they're only 200 bucks (and he's going to put in 100) - but that means I need to get a TV too - which is about 1000 and a TV stand...this is all fine and dandy - I really don't have that much time at home though......hmmm....

Life is full or hard decisions...like Nikon just released the 24mm F1.4 - SUPER sweet - not only a superb wedding lens, but climbing too.....no seriously - I'm really psyched about it - but its 2200....and the price won't drop. Ever....

Gooooooo Ipod

So I got a new Ipod this christmas - well Ipods are basically hard drives - and the thing with hard drives is that - if the drive is going to fail- its probably going to fail in the first few months - and if it doesn't, then it will probably last for 5 - 10 years (etc)

Well - My new Ipod crapped out on me - so I logged on to Apple and - they're sending me a brand new one - I didn't even have to pay shipping or anything - they gave me a slip - I went to a UPS and the UPS guy already knew I was coming - I just gave him my IPOD and that was it....

I wonder how fast the turn-around time will be.

Photo from the Apple Site....

A good idea......

Well - I had this brilliant Idea - I got this little self-powered portable hard drive for my laptop for my music..well....I got some Velcro stickers and just stuck the thing to the back of my laptop with Velcro - its awesome - it stays out of the way, stays connected, doesn't get jacked......wow....even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes huh?

I am getting really really psyched for HP40 this weekend. I didn't get to train yesterday - I ended up just playing video games all night - I'm justifying this by saying that I needed a rest day.....

HP40 Guide = = AWESOME!

I just go a copy of the HP-40 guide by GreenerGrass Publishing, written by Adam Henry. Its about time someone put out a guide to this place, but all the years of waiting has been worth it - they definitely did the place justice. Its full color - and awesome.

If you're worried about the "grades" - man - your in the wrong sport - and I have a box of tissues for your teary eyes.

One thing that I like in a bouldering guide is "userability" and with a plethora of topo maps, you are definitely going to have no doubts when it comes to finding the specific name and grade of the V2 that you're not going to be able to do.

The Maps themselves look great and are comparable to a work of art. All in all - SWEEEET!

You can pre-order them now or check them out on the Publisher's website:

http://www.greenergrasspublishing.com/guidebooks/

Been a While...

Its been a while since I've posted - I guess it was that I didn't want to admit to myself that I'm back to having a steady job - its funny - I think that my training and climbing is more consistent now that I have job to sit down at four times a week.

I've been at "classes" for the past month learning and getting certifications for my job (bridge engineering job) - but have been running and training - mostly abs, but now that our basement homewall is awesome (45 degree) - I am planning on some bouldering training as well.

Matt Fanning, Katherine Pabody and I have done several trips to Chattanooga this winter, with mixed weather/results.

I'm doing a 4 dayer this weekend to HP-40

The new guidebook is awesome and I was quite happy and lucky to snag one of the 40 "pre-release" books. I managed to score three images in the book. There's a photo of me on "Pop-eye" so I guess I need to go and send that problem huh?

I'll make a point of updating my blog now that I have come to turns with "being back in a real life" again.

Oh - and we've been just as busy as ever establishing new routes at the Meadow - Once we get most of the routes sent - I'll post the PDFs...