Travel Map

Buttermilks ... AGAIN!!! =)

Ok - so its depressing that I'm leaving Bishop so soon...all my friends are leaving too - so its not soooo incredibly painful...

I have maybe two more days - then I pick up Elodie at the AP in Phoenix - I'll do a new map and calendar in my next post.

Yesterday - we did the Buttermilks - and after warming up on

*** Green Wall Essential (V2) - this thing is GREAT! - I love doing it for a warm-up...very good..

I tried my project again -

x High Plains Drifter (V7) - I felt crappy on the starting portion - though was doing much better - well relatively better on the upper portion...feeling more static - it was hot though - so the sloper was HORRID.

then I tried

x Bowling Pin (V4) - supposedly its harder now - because a jug broke - but whatever right? It just keeps you honest. Well - my first go was my best - my second go was my second best and then I was hosed tommy...hosed....I'll come back to this one (hopefully on this trip - but I only have two more climbing days - DOH!)

x Soul Slinger (V9) - yah right....

Then I went to try one of the first problems I tried at Bishop -

*** Birthday Direct (V3) _ WOAH - AMAZING!! Hard, but really good - you start on a crimp, dead vertical wall - good feet - up to a left gaston - press into the gaston and bring the foot up to an ok smear, set the left foot and go out right to right gaston - so now you're in double gastons...you need to step a high left foot and then press to some more crimpers - just dig the bone and its done...great problem.

we finished the day on:

x Iron Man Traverse (V4) - CLASSIC! I videoed this an am working on it now...

Today - we're all hanging out in the Looney Bean, playing scrabble, working on photo/video - free pool is at 4pm til 6 - then who knows....

I'll post the video soon.

-Danno

Quick Hit

More tomorrow...

Yesterday was a Rest Day

Lets see -what did we do yesterday - hung out in the Bean for a while - played Dana's climber game (I'm play testing it) - went out for lunch - then hung out in the park - then we went to play free pool from 430 - 6 - and didn't buy anything - then we went out for mexican dinner - then we went to the hot springs!

Julia named my car - (which had yet to be named...) see the photo...

le Buttermilks

We spent the day at the Buttermilks - I'm making really good progress on High Plains Drifter - I stuck the crux once - but my foot blew - I only have like maybe 3 more climbing days here too - so I may have to come back to it - but thats OK...


High Plains Drifter (V7) - Video by Julia Krueger from Daniel Brayack on Vimeo.

I took a bunch of photos and video - High Plains (V7), Iron Man (V4), Devotion (v9).

I'm working on video now - the photos are good enough that I'm holding.

Also - I talked to Kris Hampton aka ODUB - I'm going to be using some of his music for me videos =)

I'm psyched!

Rest Day today... stay posted.

Just uploaded a video of me on High Plains Drifter - working on the Hot Springs Video now...

Hot Springs

We went up the road 35 miles to another free hot springs - DUDE - totally rad - out in the middle of this field - at 7000 feet in the mountains - there's this hot springs.....

Tomorrow is probably a buttermilks day....its gonna be a bit hotter.

I pulled the High Plains Drifter video due by request.

Strength in Numbers...

I really needed a rest day - but I went to the Sads to work "Strength in Numbers" - I made it to the crux - a desperate crimper match - just about every try - though i just crapped out pretty hard once I got there - I really need a rest day - I felt heavy today...I guess beating the crap out of myself yesterday hosed me for today...

I did a few moderate V0s - but basically - it just hurt - big time....I video taped Julia on Molly however- and am really psyched with the footage - I still have a lot to learn with video - but its coming along...

Cave Problem (V4)

Julia Krueger


Julia Krueger Cave Problem (V4) at the Buttermilks from Daniel Brayack on Vimeo.

Buttermilks ARE RAD!

I'm getting stronger - that's for sure - plus it was cold at the Buttermilks - snow still on the ground in the shadows - unfortunately, my project - High Plains Drifter got wet after maybe 5 goes on it - I did really well on it - I stuck the drifter move ONCE - and held the bad hold for maybe 1 second - then fell off - after that - its just one more move...

I felt really solid on the start too.

I warmed up on two problems on the Sunshine Boulder:

Unnamed (V0) - Really good

Good Morning Sunshine (V1) *** - supposedly really hard - and I couldn't even do it last time I tried it - but heck - it felt easy today - go figure.

Then I went and worked on High Plains Drifter...

Then I went over to the Cave Boulder - I did a moderate:

Inner Sanctum (V2) - not really worth more than a mention - kinda cool though

I felt the holds on a couple problems then set my sites on:

Pain Grain (V5) *** - really cool! A big move to a bad crimper, but good feet and a heel hook - up to a sidepull and some slopers - THEN ITS A FREAKING GROVEL - not really - you throw a foot out left and press pretty hard on bad crimps and make a HARD move to a crimper - it took me like maybe 15 tries or so - but I did it! It was really desperate!

I tried Saigon - I need to get stronger for this one for sure...I'm a bit short for it...I know I know....power problems - not height problems...

I finished up the day - sending this suprisingly difficult problem on Grandmother Peabody:

West Corner (V4) ** - ok - so there's a heel hook on this one - and if they heel hook blows - which its going to - you're going to hit the pad before you even realize that you've fallen - like every time you're like OH yah - I'm going to do this problem - OH wait...maybe not... =)

Oh wait - I did another one - I flashed:

Cave Problem (V4) - a long enduro problem - good holds the whole way...a long move at the end - though I did some jammin' and some crushing.

I video taped a lot today as well - look for it...

-Danno

Rest Day - Part Two...

We took a rest day today - and pretty much hung out in the park all day - I ran 45 minutes today - we slack lined - played with the frisbee - poi...chased some ducks - you know - the wonderful life...after that - we hung out in the Looney Bean - and then we played some free pool....

Here's a couple shots from today...
Tomorrow - we're heading to the sads - I'm gonna try to do

Strength in Numbers (V5) in a day...

ANOTHER VIDEO DAY

I took a full rest day today - filmed Solarium, Ground Water - and Atari.

I read the manual and figured out how to get the colors I wanted out of my camera - I'm really pysched - also - I used my light stand as a mono/tri-pod. I still have a lot to learn.

Here's a shot of me on one of my projects - Mr. Witty (V6)

I also shot photos on Atari - which I'm really psyched on =)

Good Day!

Ok - so we warmed up on the Heavenly Path Boulder - doing the V1 name-sake problem - which I LOVE.

Then - we went up and work

xx Mr. Witty (V6) - my new project - You start on two good holds and make a HUGE move to a crimpy sidepull - I stuck it once - though I tried it MUCHO MUCHO times....I stuck it once - and my foot blew! I think I can do it - its good - I'm going to work it again tomorrow with Maysa

I sent one of my projects:

Easy Easy Rider (V5) - A hard sit-start - which actually felt easy this morning (yay muscle memory) - then you get an OK rest - then traverse into and finish on this really good V3 - Carrot Top - I fell of the LAST move - once - then sent it next go =)

xx Serengeti (V5) - I WAS BEAT - This problem is my meter - to tell me how pooped I am - I can generally run laps on it at the end of the day - not today though.

I tried a couple problems - tired as tar - just to get some more in:

xx Rio's Arete (V3) - more like V5 - a PERFECT arete - very hard

xx Cue Ball (V4) - totally my style - big moves on a steep wall on good holds to an arete - I WAS HOSED - but managed to fall of the crux dyno (the finish) - I'll definitely crush this one next time...

First Video Day

I did my first video day today - I still have a lot to learn - but I'll post some videos - hopefully in a week - dumping the P2 cards and gonna charge the camera - then head out again tomorrow...probably a rest day the next day....

Two days of rest then...

I took two rest days - mostly to grow some skin back - though the weather has been snowy...its great today -

I'm not sure where we're heading today - but I'm psyched!

I'm hoping to get some good light so I can work with my video camera - I'm going to bring the still camera as well - we shall see...

Last night - we made cookies in our little homemade over that we have in our fire...

2 Rest Days and a Camera

My video camera came in today - I didn't really get to do anything with it - other than put the strap on and put in the P2 cards - Its gonna be 6.5 for the battery to charge

At the local bar - they have free pool from 4pm - 6pm - kinda fun - we usually have the place to ourselves - but there was some obnoxious guy there tonight....As soon as he showed up - I tossed my game to Guy (he's better than me) and left....

Tomorrow is a climb day for sure - I'm hoping to get do the either the Happys or Sads - I'd like to start videoing tomorrow -though I'm not sure if I'm ready - I need to get my battery charged and then figure out the basic settings - frame rates etc...I've been suggested to shoot at 30p - though I will likely see if I can shoot climbing with 24p (that's 24 frames per second which gives that "movie/film" feel to it...)

Winter Wonderland...

I woke up to one - they didn't plow the roads and I was the only non- 4WD vehicle on the icy roads - i was sliding all over the place - but am used to it since I grew up in Pittsburgh...

All the snow is melting now - but things will be wet today.

My video camera comes in today - so I was planning a rest day anyways - I still have some nasty hand wounds that need to heal....so life is good =)

Snowy Day.....

I've been trying to avoid snow - but we finally got a snow day in Bishop.

It works out well though - because I planned both today and tomorrow as rest days (I'm getting my video camera in the mail tomorrow) - I really need to heal some skin - so it works out...

Owens River Gorge

Ok - so the hike in was the worst hike of my life.....the climbing (sport) is OK....I could move here.....but not for the sport climbing - its probably about 1000 feet vertical elevation...and the gorge itself sucks - there's old power plants and power wires etc....the movement is cool - the rock is good...the bolts - some of them are terrible, but most are good....

Nothing really else to say about the sport climbing....

Happy Day at the Happies

Man - I really beat the snot out of myself - it was RAD!

I warmed up on the Split Mellon and Coors Boulders - doing some good moderates:

Split Mellon (V0)

Fractured Personality (V0)

Bear (V2) - cool arete - was a little sketched at the topout - since I wasn't over my pad...but felt good.

Coors is Light (V2) - a cool techy crimp problem

Pottenger's Wish List (V3) - kinda felt like I was cheating since it uses holds from Coors is Light

Weak as Piss (V0-) A good description...

OK - then I went to my project -

The Vulcan Traverse (V5) ads about 15 jug moves and several harder moves to the classic arete problem - Big Chicken. Two days ago - I was getting to the V2 part every time and just getting flamed....I tried it 3 time s- falling 3 times at the LAST move (a somewhat long dyno/move to a sloper jug) -

Some of the holds were in the sun - so I said "Screw it" - came back to it later that day and DID IT!

I ran into the Canadian crew and we went to Serengeti (V5) - which I ran laps on -

Then - we tried this problem -

XX Easy Easy Rider (V5) - A PISS hard sit start - you throw to this crappy lip pinch - out of this scoop, set feet and go again to a blind jug...then you traverse into this classic problem - Carrot Top - I managed to stick the move ONCE - it was really desperate - only to blow it on the topout of the V3 - this is my next project to do....warm-up then try and send it next time....

Then - we went to the Solarium boulder - and I ran laps on that - as well as the moderate (V1) next to it - Western Round Up

Then we went to the Savannah boulder - and I managed to pull Ketron Classic (V4) out of my butt again - I continued working it - trying Maysa's static beta (she is Super Strong)....

Then we went back to the Serengetti boulder and I ran a few more laps on that - and then tried to do it 3 times (and almost did) in my approach shoes - that's gonna be a project of mine - Serengetti in my approach shoes -

My fingers were bleeding so much and they hurt so bad - that I had to grab all the holds in different ways so they wouldn't hurt so much...

Another day of Glory (but no sends)

I spend yesterday beating the snot out of myself on the "Vulcan Traverse (V5)" - its a long traverse into a really good V2 - Big Chicken - I could get to the V2 every try - but darnit! I just worked it and worked it and worked it - no rest....finally - once i couldn't do the traverse - I did laps on the V2 until I couldn't do that anymore - the last few tries were REALLY desperate - I really want to do that one...=)

I did some laps on Solarium - I like that problem a lot....

Tomorrow- I'm gonna go and work the Vulcan Traverse - hopefully send it - then pick another project at the Happys or maybe go to the Sads and try to send Cow Skull (V5)

I got my 1.5 TB drive in the mail today - video 1 GB a min...it was only 130 bucks too (and the case was another 30 or so...)

I'd like to video tape Solarium - I think that'll be my first video project - maybe I'll try and put together a small video from Bishop...I only have like maybe 18 more days here...

-Danno

Some poor dude....

Lost a stack of cash in the Visitor Center Parking lot....

I took the stack of cash into the Visitor Center and gave it to the receptionist - hopefully whoever it was will come back for it...

Video World...

Well, I ordered my Video Camera - its coming next Wednesday...

Some video projects:

Bishop - Jake List on stuff here
Hueco - Ashley, Max and Tim
Vegas/J-Tree - Pat

I get so many people asking me about photo stuff - I'm thinking about doing a series on Digital Photography - a practical approach....

This Fall, I'd like to do a south eastern bouldering video

Small projects - Coopers Rock, Maybe that place in Southwestern Pa...

Rest Day...

Just hanging out in the Looney Bean - went out to the Sads to shoot Jake - on Beefy Gecko - my body was hurting lots - so I took a rest day....

Jake managed to do it first go today.

THE SADS

OMG I had such a good day today!!!!!

I started the day with an Ibuprofen which probably helped…

I WAS TRYING REALLY HARD TODAY

The Sads is a bouldering area on the Volcanic Table Lands – its right down the street from the Happys and is less concentrated and smaller, but WOW – the problems are RAD!!!!

I totally BEAT THE SNOT out of myself today – I wasn’t really taking rest between burns, just trying AS HARD AS I COULD. And that was all there was to it.

I put in about 50 goes on “Molly” – then left…found my buddy Eric and then went back and did it first GO!!! I was sooooo pysched!!!

Molly (V5) – sit start on good pockets – a couple more pockets moves then you power to this really crappy crimper..now most people move up to this vertical flat sidepull feature, however, I was jut high stepping – and going all the way to this “intermediate” which was actually pretty darn good – then stick the top…jug! Wow – what a proud line =).

Then….Eric showed me

Cow Skull (V5) – this line is AMAZING. You start on a jug – then traverse left – match a decent crimper – drop down to this sloper with your left – and do a HUGE right power reach through move – then JUG – and its done…

I beat the heck out of myself – just murdered myself on it – my fingers are gushing blood – I didn’t really take a break and tried it maybe 30 times – mostly working the last move – it was a new move for me – I had never done one like it….but finally – I started sticking it – then I worked the start – I have it dialed – I just need to go back and do it fresh!

I warmed up on

World Shut Your Mouth (V2)

And while I was running around crazed by Molly, I did

China Doll (V0)

What a rad day!

Scenery Pic

An early morning shot...Bishop, CA

Went Bowling

We went bowling last night - it was fun - I bowled 74. My goal is to get 100 - which I rarely make - I did get two strikes (in two games) - and I think I got one spare.... =)

Ok - so someone bowled a hard one and knocked a pin out of the back - into the gutter...well - Jake distracted the guy working while another guy went RUNNING DOWN the late - grabbed the pin, and RAN BACK - =)

It was funny....

Photos from Today...Scenery First

GREAT DAY!!!!!!

Man - what a day!!!! I was sooooooo incredibly psyched and felt GREAT!

I managed to send and run laps on what were my projects last week!!!!! Man - the running and rest paid off!!

It was a little warm again today - though still it felt quite good.



After warming up:

Which Road (VB)
Heavenly Path (V1)*****

I went over to my project -



Solarium (V3) - Lots of holds - most of them bad - this classic climbs a very gently overhaning face. Once you figure out the sequence - a couple moves to a good pinch pocket and a low jug pocket, you backstep and make a right hand move to the top - to a sloper - then bump the right again to a "jug" I did 3 laps on this problem (before I couldn't do it)

I also did the problem next to it - a nice and classic

Western Round Up (V1) - which was a repeat for me

Then we went to the Savannah Boulder

Keton Classic (V4) - i had done this one before - it took me a few goes, but i did it (the same wild jump - way I did it last time)

I worked a not-so-classic next to it

xxBeat It (V3) - very awkward - a sit start on a good crimp, bomb out left to a right facing sidepull - really tenuous i gave up...

I did another "project" of mine:

Kling and Smirk (V2) - very awkard climb up this arete feature...I got some idea beta from "Guy" - a climber I met here and did it first go - it actually felt V2

I did a couple moderates -

Duck Soup (V0-)
Margo's Arete (Vb)

Then I went to another project of mine:

Suck Punch (V4) - this one was like IMPOSSIBLE for me last week - but I did it first GO! You start on a jug - power up and left to a bad crimp rail - heel hook and "throw" for the top...well I did it completely static - I was really stoked!

I tried

XX Easy Rider (V5) - couldn't do the sit-start - though with some work - I can do this one - I'll probably project it - though its not all THAT good.

then we went to my uber-project:

Serengetti (V5) - woah baby - what a good problem!!! I ended up doing 5 laps on it - with two distinct betas - woah - this is GREAT....super uber classic....wow.... =)

I did some more moderates

I Killed a Man (V1) - scary!!
Sentimental African (V0-) - SHARP

I tried

XXBleached Bones (V4) which I had done before - but I was starting to feel beat....

I did

Cirlce of Life (V0) -

then fell off

XXCilley Mantel (V0)

and then got my butt kicked on

XXGiggles (V2) - which will be my PROJECT - no its cool - I'll talk about this one when I send it....

Hot (not so) Springs and Freezing Rain

It was the first night (two nights ago) that the hot springs didn't get hot - its downstream from a "pay" springs - and they let their water out at about 7pm - and life is VERY good downstream at about 730...well we were in luke-warm water - with freezing rain hitting our heads - it was borderline miserable...haha...but we didnt' want to get out - because it was SOOOOOOO cold!

SNOW? WHAAA???

The past two days - its been raining and snowing in Bishop - two forced rest days - I've been spending the time watching my favorite TV Show "Bones" - Its on season 4 - I'm party way through season 1 - i also exhausted just about everything on fox on demand (online tv shows - pretty cool)

http://www.fox.com/fod/

Also - I've been reading a lot and running some...

I'm reading "Fountain Head" and "Fahrenheit 451"

You find youself hanging out a lot - not doing much when its rainy outside - and its rad...I love every minute of it...

Its really warm today - well not warm - but perfect for bouldering - sunny - we're going to the Happys once it warms up...

-Danno

I HATE SNOW

I HATE SNOW..it snowed today - I had to rest yesterday - I was just throttled....

I ran this morning - 20 minutes - then the snow started...

Sunrise Pics

Here's a shot of the mountains during sunrise - I'm taking a full rest day today - I'm gonna try to not run - though I may get antsie...

High Plains Drifter

I ran again this morning - it felt easy....did 20 - I'll have to ramp it up tomorrow (which is a rest day) - I went bouldering at the Buttermilks today - and found my project - High Plains Drifter (V7) (I might be mixing it up with the Plain High Drifter, but think I have the name right) - anyways - it fits me really well - big moves on good holds - to slopers...

I'm going to run again this afternoon/evening - I'm feeling light and GOOD.

Saigon

My ?project - I'm not sure - I'm too short to do it the one way where you jump - its gonna be a hard one for me...

Hot Spring Pics...

Good Run...and the Buttermilks

MAN - I think I'm losing weight fast - I've been running hard - not long so far - just feels like it. like right now - I'm soooooo dead - like I'm crushed

I ran 18 minutes yesterday morning and then 30 minutes during the day - then today - I ran another 20 minutes this morning - went bouldering and then another 20 min just now.

Gonna try and keep it up... =)

HOT SPRINGS!

Holy CATS HOT SPRINGS!!!!

Wow…amazing.

Ok – in order –

So I road up to the Bardini’s with Jake – to shoot him on “A Maze of Death (V12)” – it was a tough shot – dark problem with a really nice mountain background – I set my primary flash at 1/8; balanced the background and voila. I purposely did not gel the flash – set my white balance to “flash” which gave the mountain background and meadow a blueish feel.

Sorry - can't post these - these are worth holding....

After that – we went back to the Looney Bean – the coffee shop in town – in which I spend my mid days (its generally too hot to climb in the day here.)

Then – well…we went to the hot springs – there’s this resort of some sort up on the mountain that has actual hot springs – well – I guess they store up the water all day – and then release it in the evening – so what all the dirt balls do is go to these down stream pools which is the outtake – its AMAZING – its like warmer than bathwater – its so warm that after a while – you just HAVE to get out…its that hot…

The pools have a sandy bottom and are maybe 1-2 feet deep – so you can lay on your back in the water. Its great….I could totally live here…

Video Camera SOON

Well - probably in March...I'm gonna get a video camera; I want to start doing honest to God videos - starting with a bouldering video in the South East - then I want to go on a modern day RAMPAGE (this was a video put out about 10 years ago where they travel around - and well..boulder...)

Here's the camera I'm looking at - A Panasonic AG-HPX170 - though I'm also considering a Sony PMW-EX1...

Photos is from the B&H webpage

Trout...

While running (my 30 minute run in town), I ran by this small little water basin - it was like a canal - wellllll at first I was like...no...no way! It was about 20 feet wide and about 4 feet deep - but there WERE THOUSANDS OF TROUT!!!

They have to be stoked - i mean - with so little water - and lack of food - I bet in a few months (especially when it warms up) - they'll be deader than last Tuesday....but still....maybe - Its a COLD mountain stream - and maybe there's a lot of insects...who knows...

Not Bad...

I woke up a bit late - still having trouble sleeping - it was weird last night - I'm methotical about things - like when I go to bed, I zip up my sleeping bag completely - well - when I woke up this morning - the zipper had opened about 3 inches on each side....weird huh?

I ran for 18 minutes this morning - then went food shopping - at Vons - which is TOTALLY a rad food store - for breakfast I had an everything Bagel + some triscuits and Humus.

I went bouldering - and just worked projects: And the morning at the Happy's....

XX Solarium (V3) - the guidebook even jokes that this is a REALLY HARD V3 - I kept doing it to the lip and chickening out on a throw to a jug - I only had my one pad...sooo psssssss you know......

XX Serengetti (V5) - this one is cool - I'm getting further on it - though it BAKES in the sun. I really need to get up early and get on it - I'm making progress - I think if I lose a few lbs - I'll be able to do it.

XX Sucker Punch (V4) I felt much better - having skin for this two move problem - the crimp rail felt greasy - I kept trying a high right heel hook - but think I need more power for this one...maybe soon though?

Keton Classic (V4) - I didn't think I was going to do this one - but with a spot, I commited to the last move and freaking stuck it - all points off - probably not the best beta - but my entire body was shot and i figured - what the heck just throw right? =)

That's about it...I went into town, bought some running shoes - and ran for another 30 minutes....kinda hurts now - but I'm resting and then heading up to the Buttermilks for the evening session - gonna shoot photos too....

-Danno

Full Disclosure...

Ok - so I'm going to try a different approach to my Bishop trip than Hueco -

In climbing - self promotion and grade/name dropping is a HUGE no-no....but well - what the heck - I'm not full of myself and comfident that I'm not - so I'll just go ahead....

I'm a crappy boulderer anyways - though a much better climber (I've onsited several 12cs and flashed 12d) -

My first two days in Bishop -

The Happy's:

Frontierland (V0-) - second go - i know i know.....it had a hard sitstart =) First problem at Bishop

Western Motif (V2) second go too - and yes - and I threw for a "non" hold..bummer! - second problem at Bishop

Slap Happy (V3) - Flash - really good problem - cool moves - good holds, powerful

Impulse Control (V4) - maybe 6 goes - first try after finding key beta...the sit start on this one is kinda tough to "start low" you basically butt bump off the ground to a jug...hard move then finishes via the same topout as Slap Happy.

Pirate Booty (V3) - flashed this one - its the same as Impule, but goes straight up instead of left - basically - you do the same hard move on Impulse, but to a closer hold.

XX Black Magic (V3) - XX means I didn't send. I tried this one too late - it was REALLY hot baking in the sun - its V3 X - but basically the if you fall from the V3 part you're safe - its maybe a 40 foot slab...really really good looking - I want to go back and do it when I'm fresh.

XX Ketron Classic (V4) - a couple weird moves to an undercling, then a blind throw to a sloper sidepull - then some tricky feet then a huck to a jug - I was pretty hosed by the time we got on this one and got shut down.

That was Day 1 - Morning

Day 1 - Evening

I went up to the Buttermilks for a short session:

Ranger Rock

Unnamed (V0) - jug haul on slab - weird rock! I haven't spent much time on this type of rock its Granite - or at least feels like it - Quartz Mozinite if I remember properly from "the Hit List" - the Lisa Rands video.

Unnamed (V2) - another weird slab problem - definiltey took me like 6 goes - but I feel like I could do this one every day of the week now - just getting used to the rock - its weird!

on the Birthday Boulder as the sun sets - (the Birthday boulder is literraly 15 feet from the car)

Birthday Mantel (V0) - a few tries - kinda cool - still WEIRD feet.

Unnamed (V0) - This took A LOT of tries - weird smears once again - and I was pretty sketched on this one....

The Prow (V2) - a hard sit-start - I fell a couple times only because my foot slipped...really tall - and proud - kinda scary actually =)

xx I tried, but failed miserably on the Birthday Direct (V3) - really freaking HARD for V3 - but really classic - I'm definitely going to try and send this one fresh -

That was the first day - now yesterday:

Day 2 - morning session:

I did a BUNCH of modaretes for a good warm-up - just trying to get used to the rock...

All the Way Down (VB)
Vision Arete (V1)
Hydra Pilferers (VB)
Carpenter's Arete (V0+)
Any Which Way (V0+)
Comfort of Home (V2)
Swing Your Partner (V1)
Gran't CHristmas Present (V1)
Hapy Hooker (V0+)

Which Road (VB)
Donkey Boy (V0+)
High Road (V0)
Heavenly Path (V1)
Cross Roads (V0+)
Celestial Trail (V0-)
Path (VB)

Then I went to work

XX Serengetti (V5) - which is COOL - weird - big move to a slopey pocket - then a ?toe hook and some crimps - this will be a project of mine for sure - its in the SUN so its a early morning problem for sure - I need to get on it after a short warm-up - and FIGURE IT OUT. its cool though

Bleached Bones (V4) - Flash - the book says its V2 from the stand - V4 from the sit - I positioned the pad for the sit - oh man...the sit was pretty casual I thought, but I was definitely sketched for the top - no pad...I was like oh man - DON'T BLOW IT!!!

The landings here are better than some gyms - nice pea gravel - flat....though you definitley need a pad!

I was feeling pretty beat , but tried:

XX Sucker Punch (V4) - Jug to crimp rail to top....pretty rad - though it really hurt my fingers and I couldn't do it - next time foo shizzle.

Carrot Top (V3) - a really good problem right next to Sucker Punch on the Fred boulder - couple big moves - I went up with the wrong hand - had to match and grab a "bad" crimper instead of the good one and do the scary move - but it wasn't too bad...thank god for NRG crimpers...

and that was my day....

Sunday Morning...

The one thing I like about Cali - things are open sunday morning at 7am. I've always been a morning person (its my dad's fault) - well I'm taking a rest day , but needed to charge all my batteries - so I came into town and voila - the coffee shop is OPEN.

A mango Chai - and some intraweb - read the morning news - blog....yah life is hard.

I'm probably going to head to the Happy's today - see if I can round up some folks willing to wear the "red" shirt - its getting pretty nasty though...i may throw it in the creek today and let it dry out....