Saturday, February 21, 2009

Buttermilks ARE RAD!



I'm getting stronger - that's for sure - plus it was cold at the Buttermilks - snow still on the ground in the shadows - unfortunately, my project - High Plains Drifter got wet after maybe 5 goes on it - I did really well on it - I stuck the drifter move ONCE - and held the bad hold for maybe 1 second - then fell off - after that - its just one more move...

I felt really solid on the start too.

I warmed up on two problems on the Sunshine Boulder:

Unnamed (V0) - Really good

Good Morning Sunshine (V1) *** - supposedly really hard - and I couldn't even do it last time I tried it - but heck - it felt easy today - go figure.

Then I went and worked on High Plains Drifter...

Then I went over to the Cave Boulder - I did a moderate:

Inner Sanctum (V2) - not really worth more than a mention - kinda cool though

I felt the holds on a couple problems then set my sites on:

Pain Grain (V5) *** - really cool! A big move to a bad crimper, but good feet and a heel hook - up to a sidepull and some slopers - THEN ITS A FREAKING GROVEL - not really - you throw a foot out left and press pretty hard on bad crimps and make a HARD move to a crimper - it took me like maybe 15 tries or so - but I did it! It was really desperate!

I tried Saigon - I need to get stronger for this one for sure...I'm a bit short for it...I know I know....power problems - not height problems...

I finished up the day - sending this suprisingly difficult problem on Grandmother Peabody:

West Corner (V4) ** - ok - so there's a heel hook on this one - and if they heel hook blows - which its going to - you're going to hit the pad before you even realize that you've fallen - like every time you're like OH yah - I'm going to do this problem - OH wait...maybe not... =)

Oh wait - I did another one - I flashed:

Cave Problem (V4) - a long enduro problem - good holds the whole way...a long move at the end - though I did some jammin' and some crushing.

I video taped a lot today as well - look for it...

-Danno

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