Sunday, February 1, 2009

Full Disclosure...

Ok - so I'm going to try a different approach to my Bishop trip than Hueco -

In climbing - self promotion and grade/name dropping is a HUGE no-no....but well - what the heck - I'm not full of myself and comfident that I'm not - so I'll just go ahead....

I'm a crappy boulderer anyways - though a much better climber (I've onsited several 12cs and flashed 12d) -

My first two days in Bishop -

The Happy's:

Frontierland (V0-) - second go - i know i know.....it had a hard sitstart =) First problem at Bishop

Western Motif (V2) second go too - and yes - and I threw for a "non" hold..bummer! - second problem at Bishop

Slap Happy (V3) - Flash - really good problem - cool moves - good holds, powerful

Impulse Control (V4) - maybe 6 goes - first try after finding key beta...the sit start on this one is kinda tough to "start low" you basically butt bump off the ground to a jug...hard move then finishes via the same topout as Slap Happy.

Pirate Booty (V3) - flashed this one - its the same as Impule, but goes straight up instead of left - basically - you do the same hard move on Impulse, but to a closer hold.

XX Black Magic (V3) - XX means I didn't send. I tried this one too late - it was REALLY hot baking in the sun - its V3 X - but basically the if you fall from the V3 part you're safe - its maybe a 40 foot slab...really really good looking - I want to go back and do it when I'm fresh.

XX Ketron Classic (V4) - a couple weird moves to an undercling, then a blind throw to a sloper sidepull - then some tricky feet then a huck to a jug - I was pretty hosed by the time we got on this one and got shut down.

That was Day 1 - Morning

Day 1 - Evening

I went up to the Buttermilks for a short session:

Ranger Rock

Unnamed (V0) - jug haul on slab - weird rock! I haven't spent much time on this type of rock its Granite - or at least feels like it - Quartz Mozinite if I remember properly from "the Hit List" - the Lisa Rands video.

Unnamed (V2) - another weird slab problem - definiltey took me like 6 goes - but I feel like I could do this one every day of the week now - just getting used to the rock - its weird!

on the Birthday Boulder as the sun sets - (the Birthday boulder is literraly 15 feet from the car)

Birthday Mantel (V0) - a few tries - kinda cool - still WEIRD feet.

Unnamed (V0) - This took A LOT of tries - weird smears once again - and I was pretty sketched on this one....

The Prow (V2) - a hard sit-start - I fell a couple times only because my foot slipped...really tall - and proud - kinda scary actually =)

xx I tried, but failed miserably on the Birthday Direct (V3) - really freaking HARD for V3 - but really classic - I'm definitely going to try and send this one fresh -

That was the first day - now yesterday:

Day 2 - morning session:

I did a BUNCH of modaretes for a good warm-up - just trying to get used to the rock...

All the Way Down (VB)
Vision Arete (V1)
Hydra Pilferers (VB)
Carpenter's Arete (V0+)
Any Which Way (V0+)
Comfort of Home (V2)
Swing Your Partner (V1)
Gran't CHristmas Present (V1)
Hapy Hooker (V0+)

Which Road (VB)
Donkey Boy (V0+)
High Road (V0)
Heavenly Path (V1)
Cross Roads (V0+)
Celestial Trail (V0-)
Path (VB)

Then I went to work

XX Serengetti (V5) - which is COOL - weird - big move to a slopey pocket - then a ?toe hook and some crimps - this will be a project of mine for sure - its in the SUN so its a early morning problem for sure - I need to get on it after a short warm-up - and FIGURE IT OUT. its cool though

Bleached Bones (V4) - Flash - the book says its V2 from the stand - V4 from the sit - I positioned the pad for the sit - oh man...the sit was pretty casual I thought, but I was definitely sketched for the top - no pad...I was like oh man - DON'T BLOW IT!!!

The landings here are better than some gyms - nice pea gravel - flat....though you definitley need a pad!

I was feeling pretty beat , but tried:

XX Sucker Punch (V4) - Jug to crimp rail to top....pretty rad - though it really hurt my fingers and I couldn't do it - next time foo shizzle.

Carrot Top (V3) - a really good problem right next to Sucker Punch on the Fred boulder - couple big moves - I went up with the wrong hand - had to match and grab a "bad" crimper instead of the good one and do the scary move - but it wasn't too bad...thank god for NRG crimpers...

and that was my day....

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