Sunday, February 15, 2009

Happy Day at the Happies















Man - I really beat the snot out of myself - it was RAD!

I warmed up on the Split Mellon and Coors Boulders - doing some good moderates:

Split Mellon (V0)

Fractured Personality (V0)

Bear (V2) - cool arete - was a little sketched at the topout - since I wasn't over my pad...but felt good.

Coors is Light (V2) - a cool techy crimp problem

Pottenger's Wish List (V3) - kinda felt like I was cheating since it uses holds from Coors is Light

Weak as Piss (V0-) A good description...

OK - then I went to my project -

The Vulcan Traverse (V5) ads about 15 jug moves and several harder moves to the classic arete problem - Big Chicken. Two days ago - I was getting to the V2 part every time and just getting flamed....I tried it 3 time s- falling 3 times at the LAST move (a somewhat long dyno/move to a sloper jug) -

Some of the holds were in the sun - so I said "Screw it" - came back to it later that day and DID IT!

I ran into the Canadian crew and we went to Serengeti (V5) - which I ran laps on -

Then - we tried this problem -

XX Easy Easy Rider (V5) - A PISS hard sit start - you throw to this crappy lip pinch - out of this scoop, set feet and go again to a blind jug...then you traverse into this classic problem - Carrot Top - I managed to stick the move ONCE - it was really desperate - only to blow it on the topout of the V3 - this is my next project to do....warm-up then try and send it next time....

Then - we went to the Solarium boulder - and I ran laps on that - as well as the moderate (V1) next to it - Western Round Up

Then we went to the Savannah boulder - and I managed to pull Ketron Classic (V4) out of my butt again - I continued working it - trying Maysa's static beta (she is Super Strong)....

Then we went back to the Serengetti boulder and I ran a few more laps on that - and then tried to do it 3 times (and almost did) in my approach shoes - that's gonna be a project of mine - Serengetti in my approach shoes -

My fingers were bleeding so much and they hurt so bad - that I had to grab all the holds in different ways so they wouldn't hurt so much...

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